Need adapter made
- Thread starter Caleb85
- Start date
No a local guy got his papers for his suppressor and wants to put it on a skinny tubed 7-08. But he said the can only comes in 5/8-24 and his muzzle is .564 so he is looking for a adapter to go from 1/2-28 to 5/8-24. My thinking is why doesn't he order his can to fit but he might be thinking on useing it on multiple tubes.
Well I found this, will this work?
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...o-5-8-24-black-sku100010536-54364-105317.aspx
http://www.brownells.com/rifle-part...o-5-8-24-black-sku100010536-54364-105317.aspx
I've seen a few at the local range that used commercial adapters , none were safe , 2-3 had bullets hitting the can , one ruined it .
If anything , get the suppressor , make an adapter to run true to the can and thread the barrel with a close fit .
All that could work but for the laws that don't allow you the non owner of the can to have in your possession without the registered owner being present .
Also the threads on the barrel are to a diff std than muzzle brake stds .
Most can manufacture s have a specific major , minor and relief sizes .
If anything , get the suppressor , make an adapter to run true to the can and thread the barrel with a close fit .
All that could work but for the laws that don't allow you the non owner of the can to have in your possession without the registered owner being present .
Also the threads on the barrel are to a diff std than muzzle brake stds .
Most can manufacture s have a specific major , minor and relief sizes .
If you go to different suppressor sites you will find 1/2 x28 to 5/8 x24 adaptors it is pretty common .Most 1/2x28 are 22/223 dia cans,5/8x24 is the most common 30 cal can.
I also recommended the adapter that is about 5/8 long and the internal dia threaded, they make some that are longer and have the internal diameter on one half with the outer dia on the other making a weak point in the middle.
Hope that helps
John
I also recommended the adapter that is about 5/8 long and the internal dia threaded, they make some that are longer and have the internal diameter on one half with the outer dia on the other making a weak point in the middle.
Hope that helps
John
Last edited:
savagedasher
Banned
A adapter should be the same both inside and out side thread . Now if your putting on a barell that wasn't thread Down the bore you can have a problem .
Happy New Year. Larry
Happy New Year. Larry
That is what I have ,works great.
John
Ggmac I think this is a common misconception, but it is not true. A gunsmith (01/02 license) can have a silencer in his possession without the owner being present. Per the ATF a form 5 is recommended for this, but not required. Not that it really matters on here. I just thought it would be good to know.
savagedasher
Banned
Someone here had thread adapter a couple months ago .
Check back in history.
Happy New Year Larry
Check back in history.
Happy New Year Larry
Radar
Silver $$ Contributor
John 11-87 had some on here this summer.
If the owner of the 7mm-08 has the barrel threaded true to the bore, the 1/2-5/8 adapter sold by Brownell's will work. I have threaded several barrels that were under .600" for the same adapter no alignment problems..
you can always put a gage rod in the muzzle and check alignment after the can and adapter are in place..
you can always put a gage rod in the muzzle and check alignment after the can and adapter are in place..
I would thread the barrel, make the ID of the adapter, thread it on to the barrel, and then cut the OD with the adapter on the barrel, and the bore indicated true to the spindle.
In fact, I just finished doing a job like that, except I permanently affixed the adapter to the barrel with a slight press-fit and a pin, instead of threads.
In fact, I just finished doing a job like that, except I permanently affixed the adapter to the barrel with a slight press-fit and a pin, instead of threads.
jfseaman
Banned
For $26 + shipping, I would try the Brownells adapter. However, there are some things that you should check prior to firing and some "advice" from a guy who can't have a can but has studied every post and article he can find.
Advice: If he has not gotten the can yet and he really wants to put it on a sporter weight barrel, I would have him get a can for a 308 instead of a 7mm. It will work and give clearance to avoid bullet strike. It may also be used on a 30 caliber with a larger barrel and proper 5/8-24 thread later.
1) Try the adapter on the barrel. Don't screw it down all the way, leave about 1/2 turn to go. Try to wiggle the adapter. If it wiggles, forget about it. It should be a snug fit from about 1/2 way down to the end. If not the can will wiggle under fire and WILL cause a bullet strike.
2) Repeat the same procedure with the adapter in the can. Remember any "looseness" will be magnified at the end of the can 0.001 will become at least 0.008 with the "usual" 0.020 over bore size for the bore of a brake or can (AFAIK), you will get a bullet strike if the can is just 0.002 out of concentric to the bore.
3) Get a range rod for gunsmithing. Set it up in the bore, this will give you a very accurate indicator of the bullet path through the can. Fit the can and adapter over the range rod very carefully so as not to disturb the rod. Look very very closely at the clearances of the range rod around the muzzle exit of the can. If it is not concentric, forget about it, you WILL have a bullet strike, unless he went with the 308 can. If there is at least 0.010 all around the range rod, it should be OK. This is the standard for muzzle brakes.
During the first tests, wear a little "extra" safety gear. Make sure everything is clear to the sizes and have a go.
I can tell you from experience, a bullet strike on anything attached to the muzzle will make you have to change your underwear.
Advice: If he has not gotten the can yet and he really wants to put it on a sporter weight barrel, I would have him get a can for a 308 instead of a 7mm. It will work and give clearance to avoid bullet strike. It may also be used on a 30 caliber with a larger barrel and proper 5/8-24 thread later.
1) Try the adapter on the barrel. Don't screw it down all the way, leave about 1/2 turn to go. Try to wiggle the adapter. If it wiggles, forget about it. It should be a snug fit from about 1/2 way down to the end. If not the can will wiggle under fire and WILL cause a bullet strike.
2) Repeat the same procedure with the adapter in the can. Remember any "looseness" will be magnified at the end of the can 0.001 will become at least 0.008 with the "usual" 0.020 over bore size for the bore of a brake or can (AFAIK), you will get a bullet strike if the can is just 0.002 out of concentric to the bore.
3) Get a range rod for gunsmithing. Set it up in the bore, this will give you a very accurate indicator of the bullet path through the can. Fit the can and adapter over the range rod very carefully so as not to disturb the rod. Look very very closely at the clearances of the range rod around the muzzle exit of the can. If it is not concentric, forget about it, you WILL have a bullet strike, unless he went with the 308 can. If there is at least 0.010 all around the range rod, it should be OK. This is the standard for muzzle brakes.
During the first tests, wear a little "extra" safety gear. Make sure everything is clear to the sizes and have a go.
I can tell you from experience, a bullet strike on anything attached to the muzzle will make you have to change your underwear.
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