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Neck Turning

It isn't exactly enjoyable but it is worth mentioning that using a Nielson / Pumpkin turner makes the process better. It is the cadillac of neck turners.

JP
 
I just finished 200 cases for a 30br yesterday. I started to not like it. I still have to trim them to length because my Forster finally got too dull to work. New shaft is on it's way. Then chamfer and deburr.:(
 
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I just finished 200 cases for a 30br yesterday. I started to not like it. I still have to trim them to length because my Forster finally got too dull to work. New shaft is on it's way. Then chamfer and deburr.:(
How long did it take? Barlow
 
My biggest problem is I don't neck turn very often, and I have to retrain myself every time. The fit of the case on the mandrel is very critical. As close as I can measure it appears that about .0005 clearance works best, which by the help of my K&M mandrel worked out. This was on my 257AI with WW brass. I picked up 100 new Remington cases awhile ago, and a quick check of a few of them was not good. I use a ball mic to measure thickness, but last night I tried my RCBS Case Master to compare. The Case Master measured + .001 difference than the ball mic, but they were very consistent +- .0005. I'm sure there are better tools to use, but I'm not going there. Barlow
 
I agree. I have to reread the instructions, try to remember the little tricks and set the turner up for the new cartridge. I typically turn 200 cases for each gun so I don't have to do more for a long time. Usually, I get a new gun in a new cartridge before I have to turn more brass for the last gun. I have tried to buy the used brass with a used gun before, but that has snookered me a few times. Sometimes it works out ok but it's a crap shoot. The time it takes, the record keeping and just the storage issues have definitely slowed my "gun purchasing" urge. I'll admit that I had a 223 barrel spun up with a no-turn neck. I'm sure I'll skim in the future but it's a relief knowing I don't have to.
 
If you have the basic K&M turner, a couple add-ons will help. A pilot jack makes it easy to set the length of the cut. And a dial indicator lets you see the neck thickness and low areas.
K&M.jpg
Still, I wish there was a better way to set the cutting depth. You can start light with the cutter bumping an unturned case and keep setting the cutter a little at a time until you get to the desired depth. Also, you may want to keep some old junk unturned cases for setup work. On most cases, I make the cut in one pass taking 5-6 seconds to slowly feed in one direction, then nearly as long pulling it out using a slow speed on a drill. If I get a lot of cases that don't clean up enough, I'll run them all usually a .014", then reset and run them a second time. Some I've had to cut to .012" to get them to cut nearly all the way around.
 
I use a set of "automotive type" feeler gauges to set my cutter depth, then turn a shell, check it and adjust from there. The PMA tool has a nice micro adjuster. Does anybody else use feeler gauges?
 
You certainly not get tendonitis by doing it this way. And I get them from Wes in about the same length of time as it takes me to do it.
I have to chain myself to the chair and get my wife to flog me to get it done. She doesn't mind the extra work at all.
Now that's funny! Next time I'll try it. Barlow
 

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