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Neck Turning Products and Use Recommendations

Thinking of trying neck turning. Since I like Redding dies, I was thinking of getting the 26400 Redding Case Neck Guage. What is a good neck turner for me to use that is a decent price and fairly easy to use and get consistent neck thickness?

I see the Sinclair model, NT-1500 DELUXE NECK TURNING KIT, but if I see it correctly, I need one of these for each of the calibers I shoot? (.17, .223, 6mm, 6.5mm, 30, etc.) I also see RCBS and Hornady models, too. What do you guys think who have done this procedure with these or other tools, etc. What do I need to purchase to get there without a burdensome tool or having to spend lots and buy several, if I am understanding the Sinclair tool. Looks like Hornady comes with most of what is needed except for their shell holders.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...t-1500-deluxe-neck-turning-kit-prod35270.aspx
 
Just one man's opinion, but if you're going to be turning a lot of cases for multiple calibers, I would suggest looking at using a drill or motor powered setup from K&M or 21st Century. Turning brass by hand gets old in a hurry.

If you're looking just to experiment, the hand unit you're looking at would be okay for lower quantities of brass and you could add in a drill & case holders, at a later date. I have not used the Sinclair, but it is well regarded. I use K&M turners because the have a vast array of supporting tools and expansion mandrels. Good Luck in your endeavors.
 
Thinking of trying neck turning. Since I like Redding dies, I was thinking of getting the 26400 Redding Case Neck Guage. What is a good neck turner for me to use that is a decent price and fairly easy to use and get consistent neck thickness?

I see the Sinclair model, NT-1500 DELUXE NECK TURNING KIT, but if I see it correctly, I need one of these for each of the calibers I shoot? (.17, .223, 6mm, 6.5mm, 30, etc.) I also see RCBS and Hornady models, too. What do you guys think who have done this procedure with these or other tools, etc. What do I need to purchase to get there without a burdensome tool or having to spend lots and buy several, if I am understanding the Sinclair tool. Looks like Hornady comes with most of what is needed except for their shell holders.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...t-1500-deluxe-neck-turning-kit-prod35270.aspx
I have been using the Sinclair NT-1500 Deluxe Model you have listed. It is excellent! AND Willie is correct, you will REALLY want a drill. Having said that, the K&M and 21st Century Lathe are both excellent! Whether you buy the Sinclair or the other 2, you will not be disappointed!
 
THE PUMKIN COMES with on expander and turning mandrel. you buy additional caliber sets.
you cannot get around the requirement for an expander and a turning mandrel per caliber.
 
get a good quality tool and get the expander from that exact company. sinclair is the bottom of the list of tools you should look at. get a good tubing mic and learn to read that. use a drill like they said ^^^
 
I use PMA tools along with a Hitachi D10VH drill mounted to my bench. This particular drill has a speed adjustment wheel that "works" and keeps the drill speed constant. I use a hose clamp to keep the drill trigger pressed . Then I hooked it up to a foot switch to engage the drill so, both hands are free. Used to really dislike neck turning, now I don't mind it at all.
 
WHAT RIFLE DO YOU OWN THAT YOU THINK WILL BENEFIT FROM TURNED NECKS ?
I'm shooting the following: In .260 Rem. a Tikka CTR w/ 129 gr. Hornady Interbond and a Savage Model 12 LRP with a 140 H Amax.

In 2.23 a Sig Sauer M400 Predator with 60 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips. Also, coming soon a Remington 500 5R with some type of .223 bullet to be determined from ladder tests.

.308 Win in a Tikka CTR. TBD bullets

Some .243 but use factory 58 grain vmax, etc. Have a BAR coming in .243 in June and will play with it a bit to see what it likes, etc.
 
for most, neck turning is done as it is REQUIRED due to chamber design.
in your case, it is an ATTEMPT to improve accuracy in a factory chamber.
not impossible, but tuff.
because of the large chamber neck you cannot remove a lot of material off the case neck.
cutting to a 50% cut/contact is probably your goal.
improved uniformity in dia and neck tension
do not expect large changes in accuracy.
you can shoot these rifles off a bench, doing so will never make them BENCHREST rifles.

I'm shooting the following: In .260 Rem. a Tikka CTR w/ 129 gr. Hornady Interbond and a Savage Model 12 LRP with a 140 H Amax.

In 2.23 a Sig Sauer M400 Predator with 60 grain Nosler Ballistic Tips. Also, coming soon a Remington 500 5R with some type of .223 bullet to be determined from ladder tests.

.308 Win in a Tikka CTR. TBD bullets

Some .243 but use factory 58 grain vmax, etc. Have a BAR coming in .243 in June and will play with it a bit to see what it likes, etc.
 
I wouldn't bother unless you're shooting rifles that can regularly dip into .3-.4 MOA territory or better - there's very little bang/buck on anything less accurate. In other words, if you don't have a good reason that you can articulate, then don't. A good reason would be having a tight neck chamber that requires it, wanting to play with neck tension (you're probably talking about bushing or custom dies here), or just get consistent neck sizing (neck thickness variation can be enough to cause some minor issues now and then). Expecting accuracy improvements out of factory-level rifles is unrealistic, and it's a lot of effort - not worth it in my opinion.

That said, if you're looking at the Sinclair, spring for the 4000. It's a pretty nice unit, and very easy to adjust. And the carbide mandrels are worth every penny. DO NOT get the 1000. It's a pain in the arse to set up and awkward to hold. I've never used a 1500, but the adjustability of the eccentric mandrel on the 4000 is a superior design. The handles that clamp just in front of the cartridge web are also kind of crappy. If any sort of lube gets in there, the cases can spin, and it's hard on your fingers to keep tightening/untightening them. The drill mounted holders that clamp the rim sort of like a shell holder are MUCH better, and you'll want a motor anyhow (I use a Bosch screwdriver, which is pretty nice, but most people just use a drill it seems).

You do not need a separate tool for each caliber. You just need mandrels for each. This is one reason ease of adjustability is desirable. I use a feeler gage to get close, and then dial it in with the knob on the 4000. Very quick and easy. I believe the Pumpkin was the first to use this method (an eccentric mandrel), but they cost a fortune, and it seems like people have a hard time getting them from time to time. However, they are universally praised by owners.
 
Thinking of trying neck turning. Since I like Redding dies, I was thinking of getting the 26400 Redding Case Neck Guage. What is a good neck turner for me to use that is a decent price and fairly easy to use and get consistent neck thickness?

I see the Sinclair model, NT-1500 DELUXE NECK TURNING KIT, but if I see it correctly, I need one of these for each of the calibers I shoot? (.17, .223, 6mm, 6.5mm, 30, etc.) I also see RCBS and Hornady models, too. What do you guys think who have done this procedure with these or other tools, etc. What do I need to purchase to get there without a burdensome tool or having to spend lots and buy several, if I am understanding the Sinclair tool. Looks like Hornady comes with most of what is needed except for their shell holders.

https://www.brownells.com/reloading...t-1500-deluxe-neck-turning-kit-prod35270.aspx

- I think you would be better served in a factory chamber with going with good brass where you can. - (Lapua)

My .02
 
I only shoot Lapua brass except I use Lake City in the .223.

So everyone agrees I am wasting my time investing in a concentricity gauge and neck trimmer given my rifles?
 
Concentrate on loading skills, being very consistent with every round. Have someone "cleanup" a few of pieces of your brass, load and shoot them for comparison to your unturned rounds. If you like what you see go for it, may find it doesn't provide what you are after? If not, it means more money for loading components.

If you do decide, I recommend the PMA or "pumpkin" if you can find one over K&M
 

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