Neck turning before fireforming- how far?

[dmoran]

I have seen no difference at all since the clean up cut is removing minimal material. As long as you anneal your brass ( I do so every other firing) and run your loads at a moderate node your brass can last many firings. My Lapua Dasher brass has lasted me at least a dozen firings if not more.

Have to disagree with part of your input. In my own 14-years of shooting 6Dasher's, except for testing "annealed verse non-annealed", I do not anneal and never have, and also get excellent brass life. Have ran match sets over 20-firings and test brass well beyond that.

My disuniting input is: annealing is not what is increasing your brass life, just not going over the yield point of the brass with your loads is the increase, as well as good resizing methods. Same as not annealing.

 

[Drolds72]

I have seen no difference at all since the clean up cut is removing minimal material. As long as you anneal your brass ( I do so every other firing) and run your loads at a moderate node your brass can last many firings. My Lapua Dasher brass has lasted me at least a dozen firings if not more.

Is your clean up cut getting the entire length of the neck, or is the material taken closer to the junction?

 

[Petros284]

Is your clean up cut getting the entire length of the neck, or is the material taken closer to the junction?

I run the entire neck but there is more material taken toward the junction where it is flowing from.

 

[Petros284]

Have to disagree with part of your input. In my own 14-years of shooting 6Dasher's, except for testing "annealed verse non-annealed", I do not anneal and never have, and also get excellent brass life. Have ran match sets over 20-firings and test brass well beyond that.

My disuniting input is: annealing is not what is increasing your brass life, just not going over the yield point of the brass with your loads is the increase, as well as good resizing methods. Same as not annealing.

I think the annealing just makes me feel better. That confidence factor. However it does show up on the hydro press as more consistent neck tension. I do agree that proper sizing technique and not loading too hot play a huge factor in brass life. Maybe I’ll save some time not annealing lol. Probably not though

 

[drags]

Yep... that's better..... even a hair more (if it was me)

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Do you recommend turning into the shoulder like your picture for the 6bra? Reason I ask is that is almost exactly the way I turn for my .268 neck 6br. My thoughts are is that with a 6bra .268 neck I could use the same turning tool and not have to adjust it for 6bra just use it the way it is and fire form for the 6bra.

 

[dmoran]

@drags
No matter the cartridge or caliber, myself will always turn necks into the shoulder.
See reply #12 in this thread, where I wrote more on this topic.

 

[Drolds72]

Do you recommend turning into the shoulder like your picture for the 6bra? Reason I ask is that is almost exactly the way I turn for my .268 neck 6br. My thoughts are is that with a 6bra .268 neck I could use the same turning tool and not have to adjust it for 6bra just use it the way it is and fire form for the 6bra.

that is exactly what I did- used the 30deg cutter and went into the shoulder a bit, and targeted a .265 loaded neck. Chambered the dummy round and it was still a pretty stiff close, so I bumped the shoulder .001 with my 6br die, and it made a difference. FWIW, I took that ammo to a match in FL and shot a 1199-68x, with a .004 jam and 29.8 gr of varget. After fireforming the junction in the shoulder looked like Lapua did it at the factory! Donovan was spot on in his advice to go down the shoulder, as I was reluctant to do at first.