• This Forum is for adults 18 years of age or over. By continuing to use this Forum you are confirming that you are 18 or older. No content shall be viewed by any person under 18 in California.

neck sizing

I have a 22x47 Lapua that I am having issues necking down the brass. Trying to neck down 6.5x47 Lapua made brass to 22 with Hornady dies and Redding bushings is not giving enough neck tension and most times misaligns the neck. I can resize once fired brass and am not having issues. The dies and bushing size are the same as the gunsmith used on the Lapua brass he sent with the gun. Please help me with what is going wrong.

Thanks,
kyleb.a.
 
Redding neck bushings and Hornady bushings are not interchangable. Was the Hornady die modified to accept Redding bushings?
 
Therein lies your problem. The dies may have to be machined to accept Redding bushings....don't know the size difference between the 2 brands if this is possible.....or ....easiest is to buy Redding dies and sell the Hornady set. I would think you need to use several bushings to make the sizing in small increments so as not to loose any cases.
 
What size bushing are you trying ? Are using the same bushing size on the new brass as on the brass sent by the smith? Is the die a full length die?
 
I don't know Hornady bushings...don't know their dimensions to compare. How is the Redding bushing fit in the Hornady die....diameter wise and height wise?
 
""Redding bushings is not giving enough neck tension""

have you tried not using the expander ball in the last stage

just a thought.....
 
I am not using the expander and have not had a chance a chance to measure the bushings so that someone with Hornady bushings can compare measurements.
 
Maybe you are trying to gain too much in 1 step. I think I would try (using compatable neck die/bushings combination) going from .264 to .243 in at least 2 or 3steps to help preserve concentricity. At that point you could turn your necks if need be, or to eliminate the donut possibility. Make sure to chamfer the outside of the necks to make things a bit easier and use a good lube throughout the whole process.

I believe when you get down to a .243 neck, you should be able to FL with or without an expander or NS to .224 with no problem. If you neck size, it may be advisable to do it in a couple of steps once again for concentricity reasons. True concentricity will be aquired with your first firing. Desired neck tension will be achieved by using the correct bushing in the last step. Then trim to uniform lengths.

It has been my experience that my Redding bushings don't always give me the exact OS neck diameter that they are supposed to, whether it be because of brass springback or mis labeling of bushings. I always check neck tension before going too far and use the next size smaller bushing if need be. I usually load a bullet only, measure the neck, and use a bushing .001 or .002 smaller. This gives me the neck tension I desire.

I have neck sized from .284 to .257 in 1 step with a FL die, but never tried to go .040.

It's a little extra work, but it's a one shot deal. Just an idea to try.

Hope this may help you.

QM
 
slightly off topic, but a neck sizing situation i've recently noted...i use redding bushings exclusively and note that the external measurement of the neck is the same from case mouth to the point the bushing stops sizing...usu a few thous above neck/shoulder junction. since the thickness of the brass in the neck INCREASES from case mouth to neck/shoulder junction normally, the base of the neck is now thicker and as i seat the bullet, i can feel the resistance increasing, some of this is due to more neck gripping the bullet, but the neck base is thicker internally. i am currently reaming the internal neck to uniform this portion and looking for any improvement in accuracy/velocity. a flat base bullet usu has a"pressure ring" at it's base and i can see this buldging in the neck. boat tails may not have this ring and don't seem to show and therefore have more uniform gripping by the neck. the tightest grip on the flat base is at this ring and often slight runout of the bullet can be corrected by simply pressing the bullet tip away from the high point of runout. this latter may correct itself if chambered into the lands. my observations that may not mean anything.
 
Ipreddick, That is a very interesting theory about the necks being thicker by the shoulder. I could definately see how that could happen, just from the normal manufacturing of the brass. I turn my necks up onto the shoulder a bit which I guess takes care of that problem and it works very well with bushing dies, but I think you may be right. I also very rarely bush my necks or seat my bullets all the way down to the shoulder, especially FBs. Do you find it easier to ream the IS of the necks instead of neck turning? I always figured that if I ever started getting donuts, I would have to IS ream. Knock on wood, I do all I can to prevent that from happening.

Good food for thought

QM
 
when i turn necks the cutter will often go past the mouth of the case for a very short distance, then start to cut. as i approach the neck/shoulder, thicker shavings of brass come off and i can feel the increasing resistance. i don't have a ?ball mic to really measure the thickness of case necks, but they all seem to thicken from mouth to shoulder. i am trying internal neck reaming and testing it's affect on accuracy. an external bushing does push this thicker brass internally and can be felt esp in an undersized neck in which the flat base bullet enters for a short distance then comes against the inside neck and gets tighter as it is seated. i have a borescope and look inside everything, including brass cases. very interesting...i bushing neck sized some brass then internally reamed them. the reamer cut nicely down the neck then hit a VERY hard region...the DONUT! these things are VERY hard and will not smooth out with an expander and most definitely not with a bullet. after reaming the donut, i looked into the neck. the shiney neck and shiney ring at the site of the donut has a dark ring seperating the two. this is that tiney bit of neck not sized by the redding neck bushing, so it has not been pushed in at the same level as the majority of the neck. the donut is a ridge starting at the exact end of the internal slope of the shoulder, suggesting a brass flowing phenomenon. a similar ring-like elevation at the base of the neck can appear during aggressive necking down (6br brass to 22 br), but this ring reams very easily and occurs just forward of the HARD donut. i have less problem with this one now that i neck down in stages and use plenty of lube...it still appears. just my observations.
 

Upgrades & Donations

This Forum's expenses are primarily paid by member contributions. You can upgrade your Forum membership in seconds. Gold and Silver members get unlimited FREE classifieds for one year. Gold members can upload custom avatars.


Click Upgrade Membership Button ABOVE to get Gold or Silver Status.

You can also donate any amount, large or small, with the button below. Include your Forum Name in the PayPal Notes field.


To DONATE by CHECK, or make a recurring donation, CLICK HERE to learn how.

Forum statistics

Threads
166,768
Messages
2,224,027
Members
79,848
Latest member
Rugersdad
Back
Top