Neck sizing or Full Length

[NCVarhtr]

I've been Full Length sizing for many years and never had a problem. I'm always looking for the very smallest groups I can get and that has worked well for me....However, when loading 1200 to 1500 rounds for Prairie Dog hunting, the process gets to be very time consuming....I was wondering what your methods are and if neck sizing only (which doesn't require lube) is just as accurate???
Any thoughts, ideas or suggestions ......Thanks, George

 

[284driver]

If it is working for you,I'd suggest you keep on keeping on. This topic gets beat down on a weekly basis. An inquiry through the search tab will find you sifting through a plethora of information. Basically, full length sizing places your cases in a more consistent form, that when setup correctly, will closely match your chamber. I'm guessing the extra work you speak of is lubing cases and removing lube before continuing to priming and charging. Hornady one shot has always worked well for me in a high volume loading situation. Spray them down with one shot, size, and load.

 

[Parker Shooter]

"Neck sizing only" can save on brass life, it can be more accurate, it may also give different pressure and resulting in a different POI.
It is something to try if you're at a point in which you're trying to get a little better performance out of a load you already like.

 

[areaone]

When reloading for PD I will Neck size only when I have FL sized previously shot brass, no problem with chambering in my 222 or 223. I have shot 222 brass as many a 6 times with only neck sizing before i had to FL and bump the shoulder, this may not work for everyone or with all brass, you be the judge, but if I am loading volume for PD Neck sizing has worked for me. My 222 shoots extremely well either way.

 

[fdshuster]

George: You did not mention the type of rifle: a bolt or an AR? If the ammo will be used in an AR, as many are using, they should be full length sized.

 

[NCVarhtr]

Thanks guys for all the quick replys....I can imagine that this subject has been talked about a lot and I apologize for not doing a search before asking.....I DO USE Hornady Oneshot and really like it a lot. I use a little alcohol on a paper towel to get it off and it comes off very nicely this way.... I am using Stiller Preator actions , jewell triggers, Remington Varmint or NBRSA light Varmint barrels....etc....You are correct>>>>wiping the lube off is about the only step that would actually be eliminated in the reloading process.... I have tried neck sizing only in the past and, at that time, I just couldn't get the same level of small groups that I get with my fell length sizing method.....I guess I was looking for someone to suggest a step or technique in the "neck sizing only" process that keep groups as tight as the full length sizing process does.....Thanks again, George

 

[LHSmith]

The problem with neck sizing only (in a bolt action) is you are more prone to run into occassional extraction problems, like bolt click at top of bolt lift. This causes faster wear on the lugs and they could start galling. Brass from the same box, shot the same number of times, will not all "grow" (head-space, length, and web diameter) to the same dimensions. If you are like most varmint hunters, they like speed, these high pressure loads accelerate the uneven movement of brass. The other problem with hard bolt lift is it causes bag upset, and makes fast repeat shots impossible.

 

[Shynloco]

George,
Not to sound like a broken record (as others have pretty much covered the imporant stuff) I would dare suggest that neck sizing, especially for the purpose you mentioned, should do the trick quite nicely. After all, you aren't punching paper for ultimate accuracy where you are using say 40 pieces of carefully and precisiely reloaded brass where you must eliminate as many variable as possible. A dead Praire Dog cannot tell the difference. And as someone else mentioned, if you are shooting an AR, gotta FL size so the thing won't jam on reloading. If you are shooting say a .223 bolt gun (not high pressure loads), I've found there is far less change in the shoulders (if any)/casings when fired than say with a .308 which simply means neck sizing works just fine for hunting purposes. But I would suggest that even with a .223 bolt gun, sooner or later you'll have to FL resize for obvious reasons. Just my thoughts.

 

[Luke_NL]

I have tried neck sizing only in the past and, at that time, I just couldn't get the same level of small groups that I get with my fell length sizing method.....I guess I was looking for someone to suggest a step or technique in the "neck sizing only" process that keep groups as tight as the full length sizing process does.....Thanks again, George

You might want to have a look at what set-up others here have reccomended for necksizing (only) procedure. As per recommendations of others I went with a Forster CoAx and their bushing dies *, and haven't looked back. If you have a die with to much clearance or that is off centre, play in your press or any other circumstances messing with the concentricity of your rounds, it may well be that accuracy is diminished rather than improved. Also, dimensions of the chamber v. the necksize sized to matter, although I would assume that you looked into those when necksizing.

*Redding dies also come highly recommended, and if you're willing to hand load with an arbor press Wilson seems to bark from the top of the hill. Forster (and I would assume, Redding) neck dies can be set up so that they bump the shoulder a little while the neck is sized so that each round is once again identical in dimensions.

 

[LHSmith]

Forster (and I would assume, Redding) neck dies can be set up so that they bump the shoulder a little while the neck is sized so that each round is once again identical in dimensions.

Not sure how this is accomplished. I just compared my Redding .222 dies (NS vs. FLS) and the neck die has the neck junction 0.020" deeper.

 

[Luke_NL]

Hmmm. Scratch Redding of that list then. Forster's bushing neck die is definitely meant to be able to set back the shoulder too (i think it's even called "necksize bump die") and it works in my setup. I'll measure the FL v NSB and report back. Having brass grow .020 after FL before being set back would not go so well for most.

 

[K22]

Read the Article entitled " Resizing - Case Dimension Changes" written by German Salazar on the riflemansjournal.blogspot.com. This will answer your question and dispel many of the myths surrounding neck sizing.