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neck or full length sizing ?

I personally only neck size my 223 for bolt gun, using the Lee collet die. It doesn't grow so I don't experience stiff bolt drop, never have to trim, but I will anneal from time to time. I shoot only targets with it out of a 26 inch Criterion 8 twist barrel. Typically groups about 1/3 minute with my aged eyes.
 
I full size every firing to .001 - .002 no more or less . I'm using a standard RCBS Full Size die and the Redding Competition Shellholders , it comes with 5 different Shellholders with 5 different deck heights lower then the standard holder. Neck sizing is supposed to give you a fire formed case to your chamber , then why does it take a few firings until it gives a hard bolt lift . I like every case to be sized as close to exact as possible to my chamber length. Some cases expand more then stretch so they shorten . Knowing your chamber length is most important in sizing to .001 or 2
 
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LCD only, zero annealing and light lubing of bolt lugs......Hornady brass and a medium load behind 50gr Nosler BT out of a Rem Mod 7 that generally shoots better than I can !
 
Neck sizing is supposed to give you a fire formed case to your chamber , then why does it take a few firings until it gives a hard bolt lift
If you don't understand it, then consider that condition a contributor.

A 223 is so easy to work with. Your chamber pretty much sets the minimum sizing requirements.
My current chamber is at minimum SAAMI dimensions, Lapua brass.
So for this I run with Wilson bushing partial neck sizing, shoulder bumping 1thou with a custom body die (no actual body sizing)(bumping from ~5th reload onward), Wilson bullet seating.
Beyond early preps, no annealing or trimming, nor brass replacing (pockets are stable as tight).
 
I see I'm in neck sizing country , neck sizing works fine until it doesn't then you full size back to a minimum . I full size to the minimum everytime for one season 24 reloads . I don't neck turn or use heat , full size with the expander ball , runout average .001 , trim every firing . Use to neck size found full size more accurate and trouble free . Works well for me , give it a try .
 
I agree with Mr. Salazar. I have in the past neck sized, and the LCD method. Neither method was more accurate on paper and as the video says makes more work. I full length size with as close to .002 shoulder bump as possible. jmo Barlow
 
The answer is very simple, at first firing the brass retains some of its elasticity and springs back. With each subsequent firing the brass gets harder and less elastic until it doesn't spring back at all. Extraction is a problem and it has become inelastic/brittle/hard.
There is a key factor to understanding this within Damon's paper -> clearances (look at it).
When you allow brass to yield, it's grain breaks, losing the ability to snap back as far. The issue comes on harder/faster with more & more yielding, and especially if you cause a lot of yielding in both up/down directions. That's YOUR cycle.

I would think folks that understand that much would say to themselves: "I just won't do all that then", or "I'll form a plan to pick a better design & run tighter clearances, and do a lot less of what contributes to the issue".
Woah, wait,, plan? Act with a plan? Who the hail does that?

Try this:
Step 1: THINKING ABOUT PROBLEMS (not buying, and asking around about what to do while already at an end result):
A 223Rem is designed to be chambered sloppy. It has high body angle, low shoulder angle. Both of these attributes normally leading to relatively high case growth(yielding) on firing. Even though it's tiny size with normal brass thickness makes it strong as hell, it yields, so it will have to be sized -eventually.
That is, unless I act to counter this. Maybe I'll read some books, and SEARCH shooting forums for ideas.

Step 2: THINKING ABOUT SOLUTIONS (kicking around some ideas):
Do I want to reduce sizing requirements? Yes, I'm tired of all the runout, and trimming, and loosening pockets, and annealing, and popping extractions, capacity variance, and replacing of expensive brass.
How do I reduce brass yielding to begin with? Well, I could reduce the body taper, and increase shoulder angle, and reduce all chamber clearances, and put more barrel steel around the chamber, and strengthen the breech, and pick a bullet and barrel length to reach my ballistic goals at rational pressures. I could have a custom sizing die made from a blank. Holy shiite, from my laptop, I could order new brass to measure. I could fill out a reamer print & order a set, order a strong, coned bolt, aftermarket action, order blank Wilson dies, run internal/external ballistic predictions,, order barrel blanks.
I could act to solve this problem without leaving the house.

STEP 3: ACTING ALONE TO SOLVE PROBLEMS
We're not all pathetically trapped in a hole that a mob digs for itself.. But for those of us who actually are trapped, lacking time/resources, we can still engage in STEP 1 and some of 2. Then don't just buy a gun,, buy the right gun. But whatever you do; -never follow a mob-.
 

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