My new brass turning setup.

[Erik Cortina]

Actually, I bought it primarily to turn brass.
I've only had it for about a week, but I already put a quick change tool post on it, it's a must! I ordered the mini-lathe tooling package from littlemachineshop.com, it's a great investment.

Eventually I will buy a full size lathe, but in the meantime I will use this one to learn on. It's not the best machine in the world, but for the money it's a nice toy! ;D

I haven't had to build anything that requires precision yet. Today I was practicing threading and I cut a 7/8" x 14 thread like what's used on reloading dies and I was happy with the results.

 

[DanConzo]

Erik--As you probably know you can do wonders w/ a four-jaw chuck and a magnetic base w/ dial indicator too.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Erik--As you probably know you can do wonders w/ a four-jaw chuck and a magnetic base w/ dial indicator too.

Yes, but I will save that for when I get a bigger lathe.

 

[wapiti25]

I have always neck turned brass in my lathe, my setup is not as fast as yours. I press the brass on the mandrel and then turn with a tool bit. I just bought a very small UnImat lathe at a garage sale that I will dedicate to brass turning. You did good

 

[DanConzo]

Wapiti25--Those Unimats are real good lathes and the way you turn is is probably the best way.

 

[Lbart]

Eric,
Nice setup. 2,000 cases on the way for turning. No hurry, just so I get them back by 7 January, 2013
Thanks,
Larry B.

 

[Erik Cortina]

Erik,
Nice setup. 2,000 cases on the way for turning. No hurry, just so I get them back by 7 January, 2013
Thanks,
Larry B.

2,000!? Larry, you know they can be reloaded right? ;D

See you in Phoenix!

 

[memilanuk]

Very cool setup. I'd thought about one of those a couple years ago, but at the time folks didn't seem to think that the little import machines could hold that tight of tolerances. Good to see you having success with yours; one day I'd like to get one of the 7x14 or 8x12 models for the basement shop.

the brass will follow the mandrel. If you notice on the video, I guide the brass into the mandrel before I tighten the brass holder. This keeps everything in line.

Interesting. I realize the brass will follow the mandrel, but the stuff I'd read/heard implied that the bearings in the head stock were not of sufficient quality to maintain that level of precision. I wonder if its a hit-or-miss type of thing - either you get a machine that is that good, or not?

 

[memilanuk]

Just out of curiosity... anyone here done this sort of work (turning case necks) with a Taig or Sherline machine?

 

[Steve Blair]

Interesting. I realize the brass will follow the mandrel, but the stuff I'd read/heard implied that the bearings in the head stock were not of sufficient quality to maintain that level of precision. I wonder if its a hit-or-miss type of thing - either you get a machine that is that good, or not?

[br]
The mandrel and cutter are both rigidly attached to the neck turning tool. The entire tool could be wobbling up to the rated .004" TIR but that should not affect the wall thickness appreciably. We could calculate the angular deflection and theoretical taper that .004" produces but it is probably not practically measurable. My suspicion is that 3/4 HP and torque maintains very uniform cutting speeds and the tailstock is able to produce even feeding. It might be reasonable to indicate in the mandrel with a wiggler before starting.

 

[DanConzo]

It's just like using your hand(s) or even one hand and the other w/power, or w/ wiggle as some people describe it--the fit of the mandrel in the id of the neck is the key, the case will run very true. The 21st Century NT lathe has play on the cutting and feed side and the people using them are completely satisfied. Once the case mouth gets started on the mandrel straight and tight you got it.

 

[memilanuk]

Guess I was thinking more of a single point cutter mounted in a tool post and a shop-made mandrel, not a conventional hand-turner mounted in the lathe. I see what you mean.