muzzle brake won't come off

[carlsbad]

1. Make sure you are turning the lock nut the right direction to loosen rather than tighten. Some are left hand threads.

2. it only takes about 400 deg f of heat to release loctite. I use heat but I don't know if your carbon fiber barrel will take that.

3. a T style wrench will balance forces to avoid breaking things a long rod through the holes that allow you to push/pull on both sides at the same time.

good luck,
Jerry

 

[Trophied]

They even make these
REALLY long! Seriously, go with some of the other suggestions.

 

[Sniper338]

Soak it in a lube. Ive never seen one glued on either..

 

[Ledd Slinger]

1. Make sure you are turning the lock nut the right direction to loosen rather than tighten. Some are left hand threads.

2. it only takes about 400 deg f of heat to release loctite. I use heat but I don't know if your carbon fiber barrel will take that.

3. a T style wrench will balance forces to avoid breaking things a long rod through the holes that allow you to push/pull on both sides at the same time.

good luck,
Jerry

I hadn't heard of " Rocksett" before (which is what they used to secure the OP's brake) so I read up on it. Rocksett has a massive temp resistance from -350 deg F to over 2,000 deg. So it does not seem that normal heating used for loctite is gonna work.

 

[dcali]

Just a thought. But if water works, it might work better with a little simple green in it to act as a surfectant.

 

[alinwa]

Just to be clear, Rocksett is THE THING in the AR/suppressor world. Just because it's not a thing in accuracy circles doesn't negate the simple fact that there are tens of thousands of guns out there with glued on barrel attachments. I glue all mine. Rocksett, Durhams, HySol, AcraWeld, JB's I test 'em all....and any new ones that come down the pike.

I refuse to enter into the "WHY?" and "HUHH?" and "that's stupid!" argument here on this board but it is a common thing.

IME.....The answer with Rocksett is to stand it in a glass of water over night.

It will come right off then.

Or has for me.

 

[carlsbad]

Thanks. I had never heard of rocksett and assumed it was a brand name for a common adhesive.

I just ordered a bottle of it for an application i have in my day job. However, it won't work if it is water soluable so I'm going to test it.

So if people are getting their AR barrels hot enough that loctitie releases, they will indeed be separated from those in the accuracy world.

thanks,
Jerry

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I can see the advantages of Rocksett on an AR. When I light off 30 rounds with a bump stock at a high rate of fire, the barrel gets ridiculously hot!

I am also accuracy minded with bolt rifles, but one of my AR varmint rifles will post sub 1/2" 5 shot groups at 100 yards with multiple loads soooo... I call that pretty accurate for what it is.

Who knows, maybe this Rocksett would work well for glueing bolt action rifles in stocks as well. Great temp range, chemical resistant, etc. Soak it in a bathtub full of water later on if stocks or actions are changed out.

 

[JRS]

Soaking it in water for 24-48 hours should break it free. It's better than loctite only because it withstands much more heat.

 

[dcali]

Just to be clear, Rocksett is THE THING in the AR/suppressor world. Just because it's not a thing in accuracy circles doesn't negate the simple fact that there are tens of thousands of guns out there with glued on barrel attachments. I glue all mine. Rocksett, Durhams, HySol, AcraWeld, JB's I test 'em all....and any new ones that come down the pike.

I refuse to enter into the "WHY?" and "HUHH?" and "that's stupid!" argument here on this board but it is a common thing.

IME.....The answer with Rocksett is to stand it in a glass of water over night.

It will come right off then.

Or has for me.

I'm not going to argue, but what problem is it solving? That the extra weight of the supressor is gapping the joint or otherwise causing them to loosen? Seems like more thought ought to go into that joint if folks find it neccessary to glue them together. The engineer in me is screaming "fix the design" rather than "glue it together". (Although, arguably, they're the same thing).

Maybe something along the lines of this: https://www.americanrifle.com/product/barloc-barrel-quick-change-device-with-nut/

 

[Dusty Stevens]

I'm not going to argue, but what problem is it solving? That the extra weight of the supressor is gapping the joint or otherwise causing them to loosen? Seems like more thought ought to go into that joint if folks find it neccessary to glue them together. The engineer in me is screaming "fix the design" rather than "glue it together". (Although, arguably, they're the same thing).

Maybe something along the lines of this: https://www.americanrifle.com/product/barloc-barrel-quick-change-device-with-nut/

Im sure its because the muzzle devices must be cut on the large size of the spectrum to make sure it fits everything. If a gunsmith was threading the barrel with device in hand it wouldnt be necessary

 

[alinwa]

I'm not going to argue, but what problem is it solving? That the extra weight of the supressor is gapping the joint or otherwise causing them to loosen? Seems like more thought ought to go into that joint if folks find it neccessary to glue them together. The engineer in me is screaming "fix the design" rather than "glue it together". (Although, arguably, they're the same thing).

Maybe something along the lines of this: https://www.americanrifle.com/product/barloc-barrel-quick-change-device-with-nut/

When I read Harold Vaughn's 'Rifle Accuracy Facts' it reset my clock re threaded joints. It is my considered opinion that while a tuning device alone may be constrained by proper shouldering techniques, brakes, being subjected to another set of enormous force loads, need more.

I kinda' epoxy everything

I also epoxy the base screws into their holes when I epoxy scope bases down.

Cuz I bought a scope checker from Charlie's 1st run......IMO 99% of all scope bases are moving.

 

[rockwind1]

When I read Harold Vaughn's 'Rifle Accuracy Facts' it reset my clock re threaded joints. It is my considered opinion that while a tuning device alone may be constrained by proper shouldering techniques, brakes, being subjected to another set of enormous force loads, need more.

I kinda' epoxy everything

I also epoxy the base screws into their holes when I epoxy scope bases down.

Cuz I bought a scope checker from Charlie's 1st run......IMO 99% of all scope bases are moving.

really? would love to hear more? i am always looking for new ideas. what happens with the bases?

 

[Brians356]

I ran across a test of many penetrants, including the ones mentioned here. Guess what? Good ol' Liquid Wrench was unsurpassed. And available at practically any store in the land. I'll use my expensive Kroil in bore mixtures, but never again for a penetrant.
-

 

[Brians356]

Thanks. I had never heard of rocksett and assumed it was a brand name for a common adhesive.

I just ordered a bottle of it for an application i have in my day job. However, it won't work if it is water soluable so I'm going to test it.

So if people are getting their AR barrels hot enough that loctitie releases, they will indeed be separated from those in the accuracy world.

thanks,
Jerry

You mean after reading this thread you're not convinced Rocksett is water soluble? Are you from Missouri by any chance?
-

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I kinda' epoxy everything

I also epoxy the base screws into their holes when I epoxy scope bases down.

Cuz I bought a scope checker from Charlie's 1st run......IMO 99% of all scope bases are moving.

I have a scope checker as well. Only putting epoxy or loctite on base screws is never a reliable method by itself. Still won't have a perfect fit to the action.

I drill and tap the actions for 8-40 screws and drill/counterbore the base screw holes (if they don't already have it). Then bed the scope base to the top of the action with Marine Tex. Apply mild to medium thread locker on the screws and torque to spec. That's about as secure as you can possibly get with an action that does not have the base machined into the top. No reason to use heavy duty epoxies on base screws that are tough to remove later on.

 

[carlsbad]

I have no experience with suppressors but know they get hot so the high heat thread lock should be useful there. Heating and cooling a joint repeatedly

You mean after reading this thread you're not convinced Rockset is water soluble? Are you from Missouri by any chance?
-

I haven't found the vendor's claims on water resistance. I do see people saying soaking in water releases it. Indeed, I was born in MO and lived there for 18 years. --Jerry

 

[carlsbad]

I take my muzzle brake off every time I clean my rifle....just saying.

 

[alinwa]

To all who are happy with what they're doing and the accuracy results they're getting just screwing stuff together I say SWEET!

Be Happy...

Be Happy it's easy

It's taken me 30yrs and many thousands of dollars to achieve my accuracy goals, repeatably.

And it ain't been easy!

But now I CAN say "hey, hold my coffee and WATCH THIS!"

 

[spife7980]

I cant believe this many people dont trust rocksett. http://www.flexbar.com/shop/pc/ROCKSETT-2-OZ-p4019.htm

I'm not going to argue, but what problem is it solving? That the extra weight of the supressor is gapping the joint or otherwise causing them to loosen? Seems like more thought ought to go into that joint if folks find it neccessary to glue them together. The engineer in me is screaming "fix the design" rather than "glue it together". (Although, arguably, they're the same thing).

Maybe something along the lines of this: https://www.americanrifle.com/product/barloc-barrel-quick-change-device-with-nut/

Its not because the joint flexes or gapping and backs off. My can gets super hot. Put a hot can on another cold barrel and after shooting that muzzle brake is going to come off thermal pressed/siezed inside the can. Rocksett prevents that and keeps the brake on the rifle.
Let the can cool off and you wont have the issue either but I dont enjoy sitting around for 20 minutes just so I can tighten my can without worry. Its easier just to put a drop of rocksett on the barrel threads and never have to worry about it.

Thanks. I had never heard of rocksett and assumed it was a brand name for a common adhesive.

I just ordered a bottle of it for an application i have in my day job. However, it won't work if it is water soluable so I'm going to test it.

So if people are getting their AR barrels hot enough that loctitie releases, they will indeed be separated from those in the accuracy world.

thanks,
Jerry

And its not that barrels get so hot that locktite releases. A simple soak in water makes it soft and gummy for easy removal of the muzzle break without having to get out a torch like the high temp loctite would require. Rocksett is easy to put on and easy to take off.