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Muzzle Brake Installation Fee

Be aware,anytime you add weight to barrel,you change harmonics.this can affect p.o.i. and accuracy.For a brake to perform up to it,s design potential exit hole should be only around .020" larger than bullet diameter.This means concentric to bore.Since bores and barrel o.d,s are not always concentric this sometimes dictates 2 lathe set ups.Always do before and after testing.
bill
 
If you have ever used a tuner, you wont like any brake that has moving parts. Id stay away from simple jamb nut designs. I do prefer a properly fit, timed, and bored brake. You will not find a more effective brake on the market than the beast, at any price. Many are far larger and still dont work as well.
 
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antelopedundee said:
What would be cheaper and easier to do? The wrench flats or knurling? The knurling would be more esthetically pleasing and provide a non-slip surface if one opted to use a cloth and pliers to start the removal process. For reloading dies with the knurled top I use a strip of stout cardboard and channel-locks if the die ends up being too tight in the press to remove it by hand.
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Why not stick a phillips screwdriver through the ports to tighten or loosen?
 
The Gentry has ports slanted forward which throws the concussion forward, and I found that it does just that. I still wear electronic ear muffs....helps me hear much better.

I hate any brake that has ports slanted backwards, my ears hate them also. However, these side discharge brakes with rear slanted ports are very effective in reducing recoil. I wear ear plugs and ear muffs when using the side discharge brakes.

Costs I have seen all over the map. $100 to $175 to thread a barrel for a brake is the cheapest price in my area.
 
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Terry said:
Why not stick a phillips screwdriver through the ports to tighten or loosen?
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For those of you that have one how do you "hold" the barrel when "breaking" the brake loose? If I was to have one I'd snug the barrel up in my vise pads and do it that way. Sort of like removing a barrel from an action.
 
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The ones I have had done were 75-100 dollars to thread and crown the bare pipe after its out of the action. then 80 dollars to time/clock and bore the brake. R & I the barreled action from the stock, unscrew the barrel from the action, and the cost of the brake are all additional cost.

Kind of switching and grinding gears, how many guys are running the two pieces self timing brakes and have good luck with them. In particular the ones from muzzle brakes and more.
 
Iowa Fox said:
The ones I have had done were 75-100 dollars to thread and crown the bare pipe after its out of the action. then 80 dollars to time/clock and bore the brake. R & I the barreled action from the stock, unscrew the barrel from the action, and the cost of the brake are all additional cost.

Kind of switching and grinding gears, how many guys are running the two pieces self timing brakes and have good luck with them. In particular the ones from muzzle brakes and more.
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Does any of the work involve firing the gun? If I was to proceed I'd have a barreled action sans trigger and bolt and never been fired AFAIK.
 
I always use a range rod in the end of the barrel to make sure I have equal space around the rod for bullet clearance. I never fire the customers firearm.
Tarey
 
There is a thing called a strap wrench. I would describe it as a loop of seat belt wrapped around a socket. I truly believe you could remove factory 700 barrels with one. Non marring and self tightening. Also cheap. Just look into it.
 
antelopedundee said:
Does any of the work involve firing the gun? If I was to proceed I'd have a barreled action sans trigger and bolt and never been fired AFAIK.
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Non of mine were ever fired

Shawn- 700 barrels are some of the most tenacious to remove you will ever encounter. It takes a good vise and wrench to remove them
 
Actually Tikka's are generally much harder to removed then most Remington's. Some of the older Remington's were just stupid to try and remove, like 6' cheater bar stupid, but most of the new ones are relatively easy. I had to make a pretty bad a$$ action wrench to remove Tikka actions and you usually need to whack the handle of the wrench with a small sledge to get it to pop free.
 
Iowa Fox said:
The ones I have had done were 75-100 dollars to thread and crown the bare pipe after its out of the action. then 80 dollars to time/clock and bore the brake. R & I the barreled action from the stock, unscrew the barrel from the action, and the cost of the brake are all additional cost.

Kind of switching and grinding gears, how many guys are running the two pieces self timing brakes and have good luck with them. In particular the ones from muzzle brakes and more.
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I am running a muzzle brakes and more 2 piece on my 6.5 SAUM. Amazing recoil reduction and accuracy from this caliber/ brake combination. :D:D

Paul
 
Alex Wheeler said:
If you have ever used a tuner, you wont like any brake that has moving parts. Id stay away from simple jamb nut designs. I do prefer a properly fit, timed, and bored brake. You will not find a more effective brake on the market than the beast, at any price. Many are far larger and still dont work as well.
Click to expand...

I have to agree. For the price, design and service from Nathan at Muzzle Breaks and More, can’t go wrong with his brakes. I have a 5 port beast on my rem 700 win mag. 5 port beast on my Tooley Rifle 300 PRC and a 4 port lil slab on my rem 700 5R 308. All are high quality machined and extremely effective for recoil reduction. No accuracy issues. Next will be one turned down to the muzzle diameter of a Bartlein sendero profile for my 300 PRC hunting rifle build. Still waiting on the barrel...
 
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