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Most Important Thing to Do?

I totally disagree with those saying that fundamentals trump equipment for benchrest, F class, and other disciplines that have lots of support. (for High power and silhouette, I agree- it's mostly shooter).

All you have to do is go to a local F class match and see what happens when a shooter gets a new better rifle - they shoot way up the standings. You simply cannot compete without getting the technical details right - it's half or more of the sport. The best shooters in the world cannot get a whiff of the hardware with the average F class rifle.

That said, as far as reloading goes, I've found seating depth most important, followed by getting charge weight right. And using appropriate, high quality bullets *and not over spinning them*. If you do that, you're 90% there. I'm also a recent convert to tuners. They make a big difference for my rifle in terms of keeping the rifle shooting well.
So what your saying is, You can buy your way into high rankings?
It still takes fundamentals and quality load work.
 
For the sake of the OP's intent to focus on reloading, I won't repeat 'off topic' (yet valid) opinions about equipment & fundamentals...


That said, I believe case prep & consistency to be of paramount importance. Brass need to be as equal as possible, as it is the vessel that contains the pressure of ignition, as well as the subsequent mechanical release of the bullet. Both of which behoove the accuracy nut to keep as consistent as possible...

Ask yourselves, what good does weighing charge to the kernel with a $1K lab scale mean, if internal case volume varies to a measurable degree? We all know that volume affects net pressure, so paying extra special attention to one, does not negate the affect of the other. Simply ignoring that fact does not make it go away...

Ask yourselves, what good does controlling neck tension, via mandrels/bushings mean, if case necks haven't been trimmed to equal length, and turned to uniform thickness? If necks have irregularities in thickness, that will affect mechanical release of the bullet. Likewise, if necks are of varying length, the 'grip' on the bullet, due to more/less surface area, will similarly affect release. And, we all know that inconsistent mechanical release affects pressure. As well as how the bullet begins its ever so important journey toward the lands & down the barrel...
 
For the sake of the OP's intent to focus on reloading, I won't repeat 'off topic' (yet valid) opinions about equipment & fundamentals...


That said, I believe case prep & consistency to be of paramount importance. Brass need to be as equal as possible, as it is the vessel that contains the pressure of ignition, as well as the subsequent mechanical release of the bullet. Both of which behoove the accuracy nut to keep as consistent as possible...

Ask yourselves, what good does weighing charge to the kernel with a $1K lab scale mean, if internal case volume varies to a measurable degree? We all know that volume affects net pressure, so paying extra special attention to one, does not negate the affect of the other. Simply ignoring that fact does not make it go away...

Ask yourselves, what good does controlling neck tension, via mandrels/bushings mean, if case necks haven't been trimmed to equal length, and turned to uniform thickness? If necks have irregularities in thickness, that will affect mechanical release of the bullet. Likewise, if necks are of varying length, the 'grip' on the bullet, due to more/less surface area, will similarly affect release. And, we all know that inconsistent mechanical release affects pressure. As well as how the bullet begins its ever so important journey toward the lands & down the barrel...
Well said,you and myself are on the same page.
 
So benchrest is so easy you don't need to practice? My guess is you'd be at the bottom of the score sheet with that thinking.
We're talking about experienced shooters here. Other than working up loads and equipment I don't know any BR shooters that go to the range just to "practice", nor any F-class shooters really. When I shot across the course, I never quit practicing. Mostly dry fire for rapid and standing. Different worlds. BR is won or lost with the gun, ammo, and wind reading from what I've seen. That's not to say it's easy, it's just different.
~Gary
 
So what your saying is, You can buy your way into high rankings?
It still takes fundamentals and quality load work.
Yes, I think you largely can. If you can't shoot a high master 600 yard F class score with a good open rifle, something is very wrong with your loads. It takes more than money - you also have to know how to load and test, but shooting skill is secondary to technical skill. You can't win nationals without also being a good shooter, but a good technical setup is an absolute requirement and will get you into the mix at club matches, even for a relative novice. 1000 is harder, but still requires technical mastery.
 
We're talking about experienced shooters here. Other than working up loads and equipment I don't know any BR shooters that go to the range just to "practice", nor any F-class shooters really. When I shot across the course, I never quit practicing. Mostly dry fire for rapid and standing. Different worlds. BR is won or lost with the gun, ammo, and wind reading from what I've seen. That's not to say it's easy, it's just different.
~Gary

You may be onto something. Every stool shooter should run a 100 yd dash, do 25 jumping jacks, 25 squats, and go immediately into 5 mins of downward facing dog finishing with a 5 min plank between relays.
 
The OP asked about reloading methods...

But I would add that you can spend countless hours messing with charge weights, seating depths, neck tension, all to have the inexplicable flyers and rather unimpressive groups.

Then... get a really high quality barrel, and a bench or F-Class gun can shoot in the 2s and 3s right from the get-go, and do that with different powders and different seating depths.

The THREE Bs

Barrel
Brass
Bullets

Without a really high-quality barrel, you may be chasing your tail.
 
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To the OP,.. good reloading techniques, are ALL important but, MY personal step 1, is choosing the "correct bullet" for, the Caliber/ TWIST rate that, I'm using. Step #2 is choosing, the "correct BURN Rate", Powder for, THAT caliber and barrel length. This is done by READING in this Forum and other reloading forums, and by looking for "accuracy loads" / comments, in Reloading Books. You are looking for a "consensus" of, 2 or more good and experienced, shooters/ reloader's,.. using the SAME bullet and Powder combo's that YOU think "might work" in your Rifle. I read, a LOT and sort out, WHO actually KNOWS, something ! And YouTube,.. ISN'T where, I look for these Guys, usually ! Example, West Desert shooter, he's a nice young Guy ( well meaning ), TRYING to learn how, to reload and shoot, long range with, a Tikka T3x, .243 Win. He literally "shot out" his Tikka barrel trying MANY different,.. combinations of, Bullets, Primers, Powders, etc. without, the basic understanding of, the Twist Rate that, the Tikka has! But After watching some of his Video's and .243 Shooter's vid's on, YouTube, I did notice that, the 87 Grain Hornady V-Max, shoots very well from a Tikka 1-10 and a Savage 1-9 twist barrel and it's relatively cheap thus,..MY starting point Bullet ! There are many good tips, HERE !
 
I agree with the boss man here. For me it was better equip that helped me the most. A better rest top to hold my rifle, a better rifle... one more suited to the game I play, and probably more accurate allowed ME to shoot better, a better bullet made the better rifle become more consistent. One thing that I haven't addressed in my reloading is neck tension, and which way to go to control it. That is one of my goals for next yr.
 
The OP asked about reloading methods...

But I would add that you can spend countless hours messing with charge weights, seating depths, neck tension, all to have the inexplicable flyers and rather unimpressive groups.

Then... get a really high quality barrel, and a bench or F-Class gun can shoot in the 2s and 3s right from the get-go, and do that with different powders and different seat depth.

The THREE Bs

Barrel
Brass
Bullets

Without a really high-quality barrel, you may be chasing your tail.
I skipped the barrel part. Now that I've well worn my factory barrel and learned what I think is a lot I'm rebarrelin from 243 win to 6xc and starting all over.
 
Well, if the powder charge varies more than .1 of a grain especially on small calibers (like my 17 Tactical), consistent velocities suffer, could get high pressures that blows primers, etc. or too low velocity to cause fliers. In the case of my 17 Tactical, I use the best components so there is not much deviation. I have experienced the above due to a faulty powder scale. Just my two cents.
 
This is a tough question. Not by and of itself, although it appears almost the entire first two pages missed the boat {what part of "reloading" didn't they all get???} and chose to talk about skills, guns, etc.
The problem is that the single act of reloading itself is so dependent on the other two. Here's what I am driving at...I have some rifles that will shoot real nice groups given the right reloads. About a month ago I put together a Model 7 in 223. Nothing to write home about, nice Claro walnut custom stock, Timney trigger, Muller barrel, glass bedded, etc.
This is truly the barrel I have been looking for for quite some time. It is currently the only rifle I own that will shoot very small {most of the time one ragged hole} groups with just about any bullet and reasonable load I feed it. Everything on your list, as well as everything I have either tried or continue to do reloading wise don't make any noticeable difference to this rifle.
Now, drop back to before I stumbled upon a Muller barrel and I would have said "the right bullet" because prior to owning/shooting this thing that is what sure seemed like the single biggest effect reloading for me. Why do I place so much importance or give the credit to this barrel?? Because this rifle is the end of the trail in a pretty long quest for an accurate 223 hunting rifle. I have two others that almost made the cut and I am glad I didn't settle. With either of these two I can do a bunch of reloading "tricks" and they will shoot a good group, but not like the Muller barreled gun and for certain not with just about any ammo I feed them. Regarding these two rifles...the single one thing accuracy wise and reloading wise is the use of Berger bullets.
???

I have to save this post just in case the poster decides to delete it.

I've read it 4 times.

Trying to decide who-all missed the proverbial boat (me, fer shure ;) )

I guess I'll go read it again...……

naawwww, I'ma' go check if the lawn needs mowed.....
 
???

I have to save this post just in case the poster decides to delete it.

I've read it 4 times.

Trying to decide who-all missed the proverbial boat (me, fer shure ;) )

I guess I'll go read it again...……

naawwww, I'ma' go check if the lawn needs mowed.....

Aside from wind and aim, etc.,

Which aspect of reloading, individually, have you found to have the biggest effect on accuracy?

i.e.
Weighing a charge down to a kernel or two.
Neck tension.
Seating depth.
Other reloading practices.

Just about the entire first two pages of posts to this thread {and several others} talked about shooting technique, reading the wind and in general NOTHING to do with reloading. It seemed pretty simple to me the way it was asked.
My point is that it all works together. If you cant shoot then no matter what reloading practices you incorporate it isn't going to help much. If you have a rifle that is just not accurate it will not matter what tricks you put into reloading, they will not help.
Why would I delete it??? Even the "forum boss" post mirrored mine.
 
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it seems that changing the subject and just saying whats in ones mind is very very common on almost every forum Ive ever been on.
they will actually tell you to think of something else because they are.
And you are wasting your time unless you do this or that.
Very few people read the post and answer the actual question.
So for me to answer I would say that once you have identified the harmonic
and yes you can get that with basic reloading
Its attention to detail of every aspect
II clean the brass with an ultrasonic, then anneal, then FL size, then inspect the brass and maybe re-turn the necks, Light re-chamfer, and then clean the lube off with a corncob tumble.
Prime with a hand tool to feel the primer pocket health,
powder to the kernel, seat and hold for a second or two.
these loads are going to go down the tube at near perfect harmonic because I had already found it
and as some have said play with the seating depth...that is last thing that I would do to tweek a load. So I think it all matters
if you drop part of the sequence you will never know.
So you said ..apart from it all...
your focus and attention to detail is my answer
it is all and very detailed at that.
Good shooting bro
 
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Aside from wind and aim, etc.,

Which aspect of reloading, individually, have you found to have the biggest effect on accuracy?

i.e.
Weighing a charge down to a kernel or two.
Neck tension.
Seating depth.
Other reloading practices.

And I am aware that the best product is a combination of everything.
Trigger Pull,Trigger Pull,Trigger Pull
 

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