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Most effective carbon solvent ?

sweets cuts everything. But can be hard on the barrel. And the smell will take your breath!!
I used Sweets for years and, yes it worked, but nowhere near as good as the stuff available today. Boretech Eliminator is amazingly effective, without the smell or the risk of barrel damage.

I noticed several,response on this thread talking about carbon on gas pistons, etc. I read a while ago about using good quality motor oil to help with that. I started lubing the BCG on my ARs with Mobile 1 5W-30. Now all that is required to remove the carbon on the bolt is a paper towel.
 
How to use CLR? Wet a patch with it, push it down the bore, and be amazed at the wad of carbon that comes out. The warmer the barrel, the better it works.
 
Hoarder. I tried to buy the original years ago after reading on here. GM said it was discontinued and had something else. The something else just didn't work.
Try CRC turbo and intake valve cleaner. While I never used the GM TEC, a GM tech told me it smells just like the old stuff.
 
sweets cuts everything. But can be hard on the barrel. And the smell will take your breath!!
On what basis do you say Sweets is hard on barrels. I disagree. I have been allowing Sweets to soak over night in barrels for years and have never had an issue. On what evidence do you fell this way? The bottle says leave soak for I be live 15 min generally. It does not limit how many times you may really. That I understand, they want to sell more product.
 
On what basis do you say Sweets is hard on barrels. I disagree. I have been allowing Sweets to soak over night in barrels for years and have never had an issue. On what evidence do you fell this way? The bottle says leave soak for I be live 15 min generally. It does not limit how many times you may really. That I understand, they want to sell more product.
I had a barrel that developed small pits in the barrel. Not rust pits. I also soaked in sweets. The gun smith said it was the ammonia. That ammonia mixed with water is not corrosive but straight ammonia is corrosive to steel. This was a carbon steel barrel not stainless. I still use it just make sure it’s all out when I’m done.
 
My experience with this is with stainless for the most part. But I have left non stainless soak for 4 to 6 hrs with no ill effects. My understanding is what will etch a barrel is ammonia salts formed only if you let the Sweets or any ammonia based product dry. I have left barrels close to 24 hrs, Sweets was sill wet.
 
I’m currently cleaning a barrel that appears to never have been “cleaned”, only patched. I push 2 patches of clr down and let it set overnite. Dry and clean as normal then repeat. If you normally clean with the scope up, rotate the rifle so the top of the barrel is now on the bottom so the clr can set on the top portion of the barrel. Do not allow it to get on bluing! This may take several sessions to remove all the buildup.

We sectioned some SS barrel stubs and soaked 1/2 in clr and left the other 1/2 dry for comparison and there was no visible damage. The lapped surface was still as shiny as the control pieces. I do not have a ph meter but was told that clr is not an acid but up on the alkaline side of the scale.

Hope this helps
 
CLR contains several acids in a water solution. Do a search for "CLR msds" it will show what it contains. Stainless steel is resistant to mild acids but CLR would probably etch/rust carbon steel if given enough time.
 
Just got back from shooting my 6.5x55 Imp.
CLR 5 minutes, bronze brush 7 passes, CLR patch then dry patch. I do run a few patches with water to get the remaining CLR out. Dry, no carbon as verified by Hawkeye. Clean my Suppressors and Brakes in an Ultrasonic and CLR too.
 
Shooters Choice MC-7 works for me. It will get the carbon out and it contains ammonia so it will remove copper if you let is sit for a while.
 
CLR contains several acids in a water solution. Do a search for "CLR msds" it will show what it contains. Stainless steel is resistant to mild acids but CLR would probably etch/rust carbon steel if given enough time.
CLR contains very mild acids. Modern 'wrinkle reducing' skin care products have similar organic acids. Commonly termed 'fruit acids'.
 
Here's a chart that shows the effect of ammonia in water on stainless steel.
They use a rating of
A = Excellent.
B = Good, Minor Effect, slight corrosion or discoloration
C = Fair, Moderate Effect, not recommended for continuous use. Softening, loss of strength, or swelling may occur.
D = Severe Effect, not recommended for ANY use.
Note that the test results are said to be valid only for 48 hours of continuous contact. I.e., there is no data on what happens after 48 hours.

I'm guessing it's the B rating for Ammonia, Liquid that is the cause for concern.
 
I use Boretech C4. Cleans great and safe enough to leave it soaking overnight if needed. I follow it with Boretech copper remover, which is equally effective.
 
View attachment 1196854 Is this the CLR being referenced?
Thanks Bill

Yes sir, that's the one. A $10 bottle is a couple of years supply.

It works like folks are saying; relative to all of the 'modern' bore cleaners I've tried it's freaking magic on hard-carbon. Just be careful not to spil/drip when applying. If I were cleaning a nice Cerus stocked rifle, I might use another chemical, otherwise...have at it!
 
Yes sir, that's the one. A $10 bottle is a couple of years supply.

It works like folks are saying; relative to all of the 'modern' bore cleaners I've tried it's freaking magic on hard-carbon. Just be careful not to spil/drip when applying. If I were cleaning a nice Cerus stocked rifle, I might use another chemical, otherwise...have at it!
Thanks Mike, just might give it a shot.
Thanks Bill
 
I've read this whole thread with some curiosity since I have not tried a lot of different cleaners. I've been using Butch's Bore Shine & I never saw it mentioned in this thread. Is this stuff pretty much synonymous with Sweets?
 

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