Most Consistent Case Lubing Method?

[Beau]

I shoot Highpower, so I need to be able to lube a lot of cases at a time. I've been using spray lube on buckets full of brass. However, the consistency of the sized brass headspace length isn't as good as I think it could be.

What is the best way to lube brass to obtain uniformly sized brass?

 

[savagedasher]

Anneal the brass and I use Mobil 1 synthetic . Larry

 

[Beau]

Anneal the brass and I use Mobil 1 synthetic . Larry

How do you apply the Mobil 1, Larry? Is the application technique important?

 

[22DASHER]

Imperial case sizing wax and a little dab on your fingers goes a long ways.

 

[savagedasher]

How do you apply the Mobil 1, Larry? Is the application technique important?

I apply it the same as imperial wax with my finger . A quart will last a life time. Larry

 

[T-shooter]

You also need to lube the insides of the necks. Lube on a Q-tip works well. To keep from cleaning the necks later, I've been using Imperial dry graphite and their application media (tiny ceramic balls).

 

[brxbrad]

Anneal the brass and I use Mobil 1 synthetic . Larry

http://www.eezox.com/

Been using it for years from sizing brass to protecting and lubricating my guns.
Pure synthetic
Available through Amazon..It's expensive but worth it..

Overview on some products.....
http://www.chuckhawks.com/gun_lubes.htm

 

[Sheldon N]

Don't know what type of spray lube you're using, but I've found the 99% isopropyl alcohol and lanolin mix in a spray bottle to work the best out of everything I've tried.

 

[Raythemanroe]

Wax


Ray

 

[Beau]

What kind of headspace variance should I see using these methods?

It's been a while since I measured, but IIRC, I was getting about 4 thou.

 

[Richard Coody]

What kind of headspace variance should I see using these methods?

It's been a while since I measured, but IIRC, I was getting about 4 thou.

personally i don't believe there is a correlation between your case lube and.shoulder bump variance. that would be in the number of firings since annealing, the die you select and the condition of the press you are using

i anneal often. i use imperial sizing wax and imperial dry neck lube, a harrells full length die and a co-ax.press. mine are always right on.

 

[savagedasher]

personally i don't believe there is a correlation between your case lube and.shoulder bump variance. that would be in the number of firings since annealing, the die you select and the condition of the press you are using

i anneal often. i use imperial sizing wax and imperial dry neck lube, a harrells full length die and a co-ax.press. mine are always right on.

Go over to your press Take some cases with the same amount of fireing lube one case and size don't lube 6 other and size them .
You will find the lubed one will be shorter . The 7 one will be longer if it didn't stick in the die . Lube removes friction and let more pressure to be applied . Larry

 

[Richard Coody]

Go over to your press Take some cases with the same amount of fireing lube one case and size don't lube 6 other and size them .
You will find the lubed one will be shorter . The 7 one will be longer if it didn't stick in the die . Lube removes friction and let more pressure to be applied . Larry

nobody in there right mind would put unlubed brass in their sizing die. i was speaking of the lube you use from homemade lanolin based to what i use imperial sizing wax. in fact i often use ballistol and i find no difference between the ones i use sizing wax or ballistol.

now if you have a press with play in the linkage or you don't operate the press in a consistent manner i would expect variations.

same with brass with a mixed number of firings. annealing will definitely help with consistency.

 

[savagedasher]

nobody in there right mind would put unlubed brass in their sizing die. i was speaking of the lube you use from homemade lanolin based to what i use imperial sizing wax. in fact i often use ballistol and i find no difference between the ones i use sizing wax or ballistol.

now if you have a press with play in the linkage or you don't operate the press in a consistent manner i would expect variations.

same with brass with a mixed number of firings. annealing will definitely help with consistency.

I can go 5 cases after I put one that is lubed . Try to keep it under 3 . A quart will last for ever. Larry

 

[Mozella]

nobody in there right mind would put unlubed brass in their sizing die. i was speaking of the lube you use from homemade lanolin based to what i use imperial sizing wax. in fact i often use ballistol and i find no difference between the ones i use sizing wax or ballistol.

now if you have a press with play in the linkage or you don't operate the press in a consistent manner i would expect variations.

same with brass with a mixed number of firings. annealing will definitely help with consistency.

That's' been my experience too. I batch lube up to 400 cases at a time using homemade lanolin spray in a large zip top plastic bag. Then I massage the bag to distribute the lube.

But for those times when I want to do only a few, I use Imperial Sizing Wax or a spray of Hornady One Shot Case lube on EVERY case. They come out the same no matter the lube type.

I wouldn't be surprised to discover differences if I lubed an occasional case and then sized the next 4 or 5 cases dry, relying on the residual lube in the die.

Consistency is nearly always important when it comes to making high quality ammo and I think that goes for lubricating brass as well.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I can go 5 cases after I put one that is lubed . Try to keep it under 3 . A quart will last for ever. Larry

And that's exactly how you end up fighting to remove stuck cases...been there, done that. Lesson learned.

I hope nobody takes the above information seriously. Lube every case.

 

[savagedasher]

And that's exactly how you end up fighting to remove stuck cases...been there, done that. Lesson learned.

I hope nobody takes the above information seriously. Lube every case.

I have a Forster coax press and I have removed the handle . With the lube I use it's not needed when sizeing Dasher brass . Larry

 

[Ledd Slinger]

I have a Forster coax press and I have removed the handle . With the lube I use it's not needed when sizeing Dasher brass . Larry

I might have to try the synthetic oil method. I always have full synthetic motor oil on hand for vehicles. Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge 15,000 mile full synthetics.

I remember many years ago when I would run 3 or 4 smaller varmint cases in between lubing using the residual lube in the die. Figured it would save me a little time when trying to load 500-1000 varmint rounds. Worked for the most part, but then i stuck a case hard in the die and never did it again. Anyone who has stuck cases in dies knows exactly how much of a PIA it is to remove them. Small cases are hard enough to remove, God forbid you dont fully lube the body of a large magnum case and stick it. That can be an absolute nightmare. Theres no saving the brass and sometimes ends up costing you a decapping rod as well if the die has one installed. Those stuck case removal kits do not make things much easier either. Don't care how good the lube is now, I lube every case body entirely and cycle the ram a lot slower to help feel and stop before I stick a case. Never sticking another case is one of my major goals for reloading. Lol

 

[savagedasher]

I might have to try the synthetic oil method. I always have full synthetic motor oil on hand for vehicles. Mobil 1 and Castrol Edge 15,000 mile full synthetics.

I remember many years ago when I would run 3 or 4 smaller varmint cases in between lubing using the residual lube in the die. Figured it would save me a little time when trying to load 500-1000 varmint rounds. Worked for the most part, but then i stuck a case hard in the die and never did it again. Anyone who has stuck cases in dies knows exactly how much of a PIA it is to remove them. Small cases are hard enough to remove, God forbid you dont fully lube the body of a large magnum case and stick it. That can be an absolute nightmare. Theres no saving the brass and sometimes ends up costing you a decapping rod as well if the die has one installed. Those stuck case removal kits do not make things much easier either. Don't care how good the lube is now, I lube every case body entirely and cycle the ram a lot slower to help feel and stop before I stick a case. Never sticking another case is one of my major goals for reloading. Lol

You got enough lube for hundreds of cases left in the Can when you change oil.
Try it let other know . Larry

 

[alb]

The best consistency I've seen is with Imperial Wax; it's what I tend to reach for. The one option I'm not a big fan of is the lanolin / isopropyl sprays; while consistency was good, it's much more work to clean off, and I had to be super careful to avoid hydraulic dents, which made it annoying.

I found in contrast that the Imperial goes where you put it, makes sizing consistent and effortless, and there's zero risk of dents. I can say the same about the Lee lube, though it's very different in nature. While not as slick as the Imperial, it does dry white, and so it's easy to wipe off the neck area to avoid issues there. I did find it to be very consistent as well.