I believe Dusty is saying moly or HBN would stop or slow down galvanic corrosion. I never had any problems with bullets sticking when I ran moly coated bullets.
Paul
Moly for inside neck lube?
- Thread starter boltfluter
- Start date
I believe Dusty is saying moly or HBN would stop or slow down galvanic corrosion. I never had any problems with bullets sticking when I ran moly coated bullets.
Paul
Jdne5b
Gold $$ Contributor
I have some .223 FTR loads that were loaded last september, and labeled with seating pressure. I dont tumble, no bullet lube, I only use a nylon brush in the neck after sizing before dropping powder. I pretty much leave the carbon in tact. These rounds had been fired 5 or so times before loading. I dont usually see a difference from load to load in seating pressure, but i'll keep notes and watch closer in the future.
I just tested 5 rounds of each pressure group, seating the bullets .020 deeper. The pressure required to seat the bullets deeper was within the same range as the box was labeled. No popping unless it was right at the labeled PSI. Small sample, but good enough for me. I dont typically leave rounds loaded for this long either though.
I just tested 5 rounds of each pressure group, seating the bullets .020 deeper. The pressure required to seat the bullets deeper was within the same range as the box was labeled. No popping unless it was right at the labeled PSI. Small sample, but good enough for me. I dont typically leave rounds loaded for this long either though.
I did exactly that when I stopped using moly and started with HBN. HBN coated bullet in a new/clean neck gave me such elevation problems I thought my gun was broken and then did the test on clean, clean with dry lube and carbon in the neck. That carbon in the neck is golden but I knew that all along from all the guys on here, if I want to clean my brass a quick tumble in my lyman vibrator is all it takes
I purchased the moly lube kit with steel balls and tried it out for the first time on clean, tumbled brass and shot brass with carbon in the neck. I found that the clean brass would not pick up any moly on the inside of the neck, not even by using a cotton swab and rubbing it around the inside of the neck. But the carbon dirty necks would hold the moly. I ended the test there unsatisfied that I'd see any benefit over carbon only necks.
Did I not have the proper secret decoder ring to use Molly? What's the secret to getting it to coat the inside of a clean neck?
Did I not have the proper secret decoder ring to use Molly? What's the secret to getting it to coat the inside of a clean neck?
There's a discussion in a paper by AMP regarding cleaning cases. See here:
https://www.ampannealing.com/articles/42/annealing-under-the-microscope/
If you want, scroll down to the discussion on repeatable, consistent neck tension.
They measured the tensile pull force required to pull a seated bullet from a case. (Interference fit was held constant via bushing resizing.) They found that not cleaning cases led to significant differences in tensile pull force as the cases were fired and re-used - the bullet hold dropped dramatically. They hypothesized that the build up of carbon was acting as a lubricant. They tested uncleaned cases vs cleaned cases with dry lube at seating. The key takeaway - other than those relating to annealing - was that if you want relatively constant tensile pull force (bullet hold) you should clean your cases between firings and not leave the carbon in there.
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I have no idea. Google -
MolyKote -
https://www.dupont.com/content/dam/...iterature/Downloaded-TDS/0901b803809b7903.pdf
Dusty Stevens
Shiner
With a Q-tip, "painting" the inside of the neck. Be a bit cautious of picking up powder on the Q-tip by inserting it too far down into the neck. Be a bit cautious, it can be a bit messy but it does it's job well.
I tested the Redding Imperial Dry Lube , I dip the base of the bullet into the coated beads and seat the bullet . They all seat as smooth as silk but doesn't make a difference in group size . I only shoot 30 ounds per range trip , I go overboard with prepping my brass . Wet tumble with SS Pins , full size to .001 - .002 no more or less with the expander ball , I don't next turn , trim every firing I want my cases to be exact as possible in length , chamfer inside and out , I have a nylon cleaning brush wrapped in 0000 steel wool locked in a drill press for polishing the inside of the necks , not to remove any brass just an up and down on each case . Adding the dry lube to the base of the bullet , seating the bullet seats with hardly any resistance . Like I posted , it doesn't make a difference in group size so far but seating feels very consistent bullet to bullet . There is no difference in fouling .
For case necks I use Neolube #2 on a 6mm Felt bob. I place the felt bob stem in a vise or battery drill as a holder and with an eyedropper soak it with Neolube. Then insert the neck in the felt bob and twist a half turn. Then remove the case and wipe the outside neck to remove any excess Neolube. The Neolube drys in 6 or 7 seconds. I clean cases with ultrasonic. You can also polish the inside necks by spinning the felt bob on a drill coated with 320 or 400 grit lapping compound if so desired.
From EBAY:
20 x 6mm ( 1/4" inch ) MEDIUM BULLET Wool Felt Bob Polishing Rotary Point Burrs
Eric
https://www.micromark.com/Neolube-2-fl-oz-
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neo2pds.htm
From EBAY:
20 x 6mm ( 1/4" inch ) MEDIUM BULLET Wool Felt Bob Polishing Rotary Point Burrs
Eric
https://www.micromark.com/Neolube-2-fl-oz-
https://www.newmantools.com/chemicals/neo2pds.htm
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Wearing plastic gloves so moisture from finger prints stay off bullets should be enough to stop case/BULLET freeze. Humidity is the catalyst between metals. Commercially loaded Ammo that is “sealed” never has a problem because the bullets are not ever handled by hand and moisture is kept out. To play it safe, I will use Hornady dry lube or imperial dry....Glen Zediker addresses this topic in detail in “Reloading For Competition”...
I Molly coat my bullets as well so if the bullet has Molly on the outside between the copper jacket and the neck of the case I don’t see why any more powder is necessary
With those liquid lubricant have you noticed or are you concerned about contaminating your powder excess liquid is naturally pushed down into the case while seating the bullet
How does that compare to HBN I have tried HBN and prefer Molly coating over it this ws2 stuff is new to me
Less is better. Apply with brush. The expander pulls it out., if using one.
I dont use bullet coatings, after studing the subject.
https://apps.dtic.mil/docs/citations/ADA568594
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