modifying a chamber reamer

[brian923]

i was just wondering if a chamber reamer could be drilled and tapped form the back whitch would allow you to got the chamber close, tighten it onto the action and then do your final headspacing without having to remove the barrel another time?

just wondering, brian

 

[457ciSBC]

i was just wondering if a chamber reamer could be drilled and tapped form the back whitch would allow you to got the chamber close, tighten it onto the action and then do your final headspacing without having to remove the barrel another time?

just wondering, brian

Sounds like you are referring to something similar to this type of reamer

http://www.brownells.com/aspx/ns/store/ProductDetail.aspx?p=5172&title=PULL+THROUGH+CHAMBER+REAMERS

 

[brian923]

yeah, but i need something that is in 7 mm saum, or .280 ackley improved. i havent decided on the cartrige yet, leaning toward the 7 mm saum. just wanting to know because i am on a budget build and dont have enough for a custom reamer. brian

 

[Wild_Bill]

Why worry it only takes 30 secconds to unscrew the barrel out of the action and then place it back in the lathe mark the barrel and index it so you have it centred. You should only be removing a slight amount from the shoulder so their are no issued with it being concentrick.

Cheers Bill
Australia

 

[Rustystud]

Brian:

First off most gunsmiths headspace in the lathe without removing the barrel from the set-up.

Unless one is using a collet system, very few gunsmiths/machinest can set up a barrel in 30 seconds and dial it in to .0002 or better.

If you have a precision ground tapered bolt race bushing and a PT&G Uni throater, piloted reamer and a Lambeth-Kiff Micrometer Adjustable Reamer Stop you can open up a short chamber or short neck, or short throat.

If you have the barrel off the action and in a vice you can use the Lambeth-Kiff Micrometer Adjustable Reamer Stop and a Hand Driver.

Rustystud

 

[tightneck]

i was just wondering if a chamber reamer could be drilled and tapped form the back whitch would allow you to got the chamber close, tighten it onto the action and then do your final headspacing without having to remove the barrel another time?

just wondering, brian

When you first started asking questions about barreling rifles, I assumed you had access to a lathe for the machine work on barrels. Now I'm not so sure? I hope you aren't planning on reaming an entire 7mmSaum or 280AI chamber by hand. While final headspacing a few thousanths on a pre-chambered barrel by hand is possible, an entire chamber might take a while

 

[tightneck]

Unless one is using a collet system, very few gunsmiths/machinest can set up a barrel in 30 seconds and dial it in to .0002 or better.

It take me thirty seconds just to tighten the chuck jaws I picked up an adjust true chuck off ebay a while back and it has proven to be a serious time-saver when indicating, but it still takes me 5-10 minutes to get both ends of the barrel running true.

 

[brian923]

no, i do have acssess to a lathe. i was going to get the chamber close with the lathe, then install the barrel onto the action. i then wanted to no if i could then use the go, no-go gauges to finish ream the chamber by hand without haveing to remove the barrel from the action. i dont know of any equations that i could use to do all the chambering and headspacing in the first shot.

 

[tightneck]

I'd suggest you either spend some time with a local smith just watching him chamber a barrel, or get hold of a video that will show how to go about it. Headspacing doesn't require the action be screwed on the barrel tenon, only a go-guage and a depth mic.
It's a simple matter of measuring the the headspace of the reciever, and then setting the chamber up to match that headspace. I do it by reaming the chamber a little deep and then facing the shoulder off to hit the headspace dead on the number every time. It's really quite easy, but it helps to see someone else do it before your first time.