Marking with laser - getting cheap enough?

[dnellans]

Good enough for gov’t work!

 

[dnellans]

One more example.

 

[Macropod]

Has anyone tried any of the dot peen systems out there? While not as crisp as dedicated laser marking I have other applications with my work that would be handy.

 

[STOMP442]

One more example.View attachment 1244377

I just bought this laser and the lightburn software. What Air assist did you buy? I am seeing online where you can buy 3d print files to have one made but I don't have access to a 3d printer.

 

[dnellans]

I haven’t hooked up any air assist yet but did buy a dedicated pump and some tubing. I don’t think it would make any difference for the barrel marking because it’s applied so thin. If you’ve get one let me know how it works, tons of options out there for about 20 bucks.

 

[STOMP442]

Just bought all the parts to build an air assist on Amazon. Figured I would just use the small compressor in the shop for now to see how it works. I'm still trying to figure out how to get things to burn correctly. So far all my text has been coming out very blurry almost like it doesn't quite pass over the exact same spot on each pass. I haven't tried a barrel yet though, my Cermark won't be here until the 28th.

 

[dnellans]

See if “2 passes” is better than letting it return to home/origin. i had an issue where the cable was interfering with the home/origin sensor switch so two independent passes ended up with an offset, programming it two do 2 or more passes in the laserpower/speed setting pane is prefect though.

make sure you use the little guage block for focal distance to the workpiece as well

 

[STOMP442]

Thank you for the tips. I am hoping to spend some quality time with it over the weekend and see if I can get the bugs worked out.

 

[Greg Y]

Coming back with a report out here.

Ordered the Ortur lasermaster 2 with 20 Watt (really 5W) laser from gearbest.com. Waited, and waited, then they pushed back the expected shipping date, then did it again. I eventually cancelled the order and requested a refund, which they did do thankfully. F those guys.

Re-ordered the same laser (few bucks more cost but "free shipping") from 3dprintersonlinestore.com and they shipped it 1 day later via 2-day DHL from china and it was on my doorstep. Good on them!

I'm a nerd so setup wasn't a big deal, skipped the built in software all together and spent $40 on the software that everyone seems to recommend from the start. https://lightburnsoftware.com/ about 2 hours later I was burning my first plywood panel with some test clip art/text just to get a feel for it. Its pretty neat.

But down to business... I got it to try and mark barrels. I've only been playing for about 24 hours but have some initial impressions/opinions.

"Mustard etching" which you'll find if you google marking stainless is pretty much bullshit. Yea it sorta works, but it rubs off with very little effort and the gloppiness of the mustard makes it totally unreliable.

Etching into just a regular old light coat of black rattle can actually does better than the mustard, by a lot. Its still not perfect though, a little more brown than black and then you need acetone to take the paint back off if you wanted just a mark. The look of etching the paint away does look cool. I've got someone bringing me some cerakote scraps to see if it will also etch cerakote the same way/look or not.

Finally I used some "cermark ultra" which is the industry standard for getting an oxide bonded etch on the side of metal. This is how black logos are put on stainless yeti tumblers according to the cermark company. This actually worked, I was surprised how well it worked. The marks that are left couldn't be removed by any solvent or gun cleaner i have in the shop. Some scratching and picking at it with finger nails couldn't remove any of it. However about 60 seconds of twisting the barrel in some steel wool -would- almost completely remove it (there is some sheen left on the stainless). For a "low abuse" area like a barrel this is going to be good enough for my personal needs, I think it would be up to the gunsmith on if that would be good enough for them.

Total cost - machine $320, software $40, $22 for the cermark spray (little can, covers 450sq inches they say)

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Did you go over the coating or coat over the etching? If over the coating, did you have to scratch a spot for continuity?
I built a etching system several years ago from a 12v power supply but obtaining stencils was a pain. I may have to put the new Hermes up for sale....

Thanks.

 

[dnellans]

Did you go over the coating or coat over the etching? If over the coating, did you have to scratch a spot for continuity?
I built a etching system several years ago from a 12v power supply but obtaining stencils was a pain. I may have to put the new Hermes up for sale....

Thanks.

I’m not quite sure what you’re asking.

The way cermark works is that you clean the surface (acetone), spray it on lightly like spray paint, let it dry (almost immediately), laser it, the wash off the unburned excess spray (water soluble but i used more acetone) with a wet paper towel.

 

[Greg Y]

Copy. For some reason I thought this was done via chemical etching vs laser.

 

[dnellans]

While the electrochemical etching can look super good, and go deeper/durable, I was looking for a cheap and easy marking method. For personal use I’m 100% happy.