Lubricating bullets and/or inside case necks

[SDDasher]

I have used the messy black moly like powder with the tiny bb's to dip my case necks into and wiping off the outside prior to seating a bullet for a few years now. I am curious as to what if anything others are doing to enhance smooth seating?

 

[JamesnTN]

I use a cordless drill with a nylon brush to run in my case necks

 

[SDDasher]

I use a cordless drill with a nylon brush to run in my case necks

I do that as well. I am interested in hearing what if anything is added to lubricate the bullets and/or the inside case neck besides the way I have been doin it for smooth consistent seating force.

 

[Joe Salt]

I use 0000 steel wool on a brush to smooth the inside, then the Moly Oh I anneal every time and mine seat really smooth

Joe Salt

 

[Outrider27]

I've used microfine flake graphite for years as an inside the neck lube, and have found it to be quite satisfactory for consistent seating force.

 

[SDDasher]

I've used microfine flake graphite for years as an inside the neck lube, and have found it to be quite satisfactory for consistent seating force.

How do you apply it and are you concerned it is an even application? I also wonder about contamination of primer and/or powder even though never have been able to establish that as a detriment.

 

[357Mag]

6brmr -

Howdy !

+1 on use of graphite. Easier to obtain @ auto parts stores than the "motor mica " that is sometimes encountered. Applied via use of an inside neck lube nylon brush ( mine are part of an old Bonanza inside neck lube kit ).


With regards,
357Mag

 

[BoydAllen]

If you are dealing with the issue of excess neck friction on the first firing, you might call Todd Kindler at the Woodchuck Den about his Woodchuck den Neck & Case lube.
It is a water and wax based lube that can be applied to the inside of necks (sparingly) with a sort of industrial Q tip that he sells, that has much less fuzzy tip. It dries after application so that it will not catch powder. I have used it for various things, but not for this, but I think that it just might do the job very well. You could give him a call and ask.

 

[SDDasher]

If you are dealing with the issue of excess neck friction on the first firing, you might call Todd Kindler at the Woodchuck Den about his Woodchuck den Neck & Case lube.
It is a water and wax based lube that can be applied to the inside of necks (sparingly) with a sort of industrial Q tip that he sells, that has much less fuzzy tip. It dries after application so that it will not catch powder. I have used it for various things, but not for this, but I think that it just might do the job very well. You could give him a call and ask.

Thanks Boyd, that is exactly the info I was seeking; perhaps a better way(less messy) to reduce seating force which I personally believe is different from neck tension. (That's another different discussion)

 

[itchyTF]

I use Hornady One-Shot case lube sprayed lightly on a Q-Tip then apply to about 10 case necks and re-apply. The Q-Tips get useless after about 2 or 3 applications but I get them in bulk so not a problem. The film is quite thin so no powder sticking.

 

[lpreddick]

Is it really necessary? Once fired, spin a nylon brush in the neck and load. There will be the occ bullet that seats hard and these are culled and the case marked. New brass is different. Seating can be hard and I lube the bullets with a lanolin based lube(home made). Not sure lubing is needed for fired brass. If one seats well into the lands, as I like to do, a lubed bullet will likely get pushed into the neck to a varying degree and a group will be affected. How many competition shooters do this?

 

[bdale]

I just rub them in my fingers with some Imperial wax same as my brass, has worked for me.

 

[SDDasher]

Is it really necessary? Once fired, spin a nylon brush in the neck and load. There will be the occ bullet that seats hard and these are culled and the case marked. New brass is different. Seating can be hard and I lube the bullets with a lanolin based lube(home made). Not sure lubing is needed for fired brass. If one seats well into the lands, as I like to do, a lubed bullet will likely get pushed into the neck to a varying degree and a group will be affected. How many competition shooters do this?

I suppose a lot of the preparation we do to our equipment and loads are debatably necessary. I compete and have used the process described in the OP as I stated for years. It is not like the necessity to have powder in your case but none the less aides the seating force consistency in my opinion. I would put my pre load techniques for comparison with anyone loading for accuracy in competition today so to me the answer to your rhetorical question is yes it is necessary to me.
I have used the process without any dry lube but have found I have far fewer "culls" with dry lube and I use IMO the best force measurement arbor made in the Century 21.
I have also discussed the use of lube with many fellow competitors who also prep their brass with some type of lube to include past and current national champions so judging from some of the comments here and in person some "competitors" feel it is necessary.

 

[savagedasher]

Walnut shell and corn cob. with car wax in it. Vibrate for 2 hours Larry

 

[Clint M]

They make a wooden handle q-tip longer than normal ear reaming q-tips the head on these wooden q-tips are wrapped much tighter, they are great for all kinds of gun related stuff. I sent midsouth an email, and they replied with a link and started stocking them, you can look at midway or google J&J wooden q-tip applicator.

 

[Shrek]

I use dry graphite in beads that I dip the necks into. There isn't a lot of graphite applied and I don't worry about contamination because the powder is already doused in graphite from the factory to keep it from clumping as I understand it. Maybe I'm missing something but it has worked so far. I don't think that I would use any kind of wax though. I wet tumble my brass after I use royal case lube for turning lubricant to clean it up. Graphite is the only thing I don't worry about contamination with.

 

[CatShooter]

I use dry graphite in beads that I dip the necks into. There isn't a lot of graphite applied and I don't worry about contamination because the powder is already doused in graphite from the factory to keep it from clumping as I understand it. Maybe I'm missing something but it has worked so far. I don't think that I would use any kind of wax though. I wet tumble my brass after I use royal case lube for turning lubricant to clean it up. Graphite is the only thing I don't worry about contamination with.

That is myth, and not true.

 

[SDDasher]

They make a wooden handle q-tip longer than normal ear reaming q-tips the head on these wooden q-tips are wrapped much tighter, they are great for all kinds of gun related stuff. I sent midsouth an email, and they replied with a link and started stocking them, you can look at midway or google J&J wooden q-tip applicator.

Thanks Clint, I use J&J foam reloading boxes. I will check em out.

 

[tuttlefarm]

I use dry graphite in beads that I dip the necks into. There isn't a lot of graphite applied and I don't worry about contamination because the powder is already doused in graphite from the factory to keep it from clumping as I understand it. Maybe I'm missing something but it has worked so far. I don't think that I would use any kind of wax though. I wet tumble my brass after I use royal case lube for turning lubricant to clean it up. Graphite is the only thing I don't worry about contamination with.

That is myth, and not true.

Modern smokeless powder is of two basic types. Single-based powders are made of nitrocellulose. Double-based powders are made of nitrocellulose and nitroglycerine. Each of these types also contain smaller amounts of other chemicals and each is coated in graphite during the manufacturing process. The graphite makes it much easier and safer to work with as it cuts down on static electricity. It's also why smokeless powder is dark gray to black in color. Before the graphite is added the powders are a pale, greenish yellow.

 

[SDDasher]

OK Back to the original discussion....the reason I am wanting to find an alternative to graphite is that I currently shoot a slightly compressed load. If I vibrate the case with the powder inside before seating the bullet there is significantly less crunch or none at all upon seating. Having said that my concern is that the vibrating is causing the dry lube to go from the inside case neck wall to the top of the powder.
I would like to find a good wax like lube that dries quickly.