Lube application tricks?

[in2deep]

Is there a way to more uniformly apply Imperial case lube?
tried using my fingers, cloth, and holding my mouth just right but either seem to get too much or too little and not uniform as noticed by different amounts of pressure needed to run the case in the FL die.

 

[HillbillySniper]

I've always just rubbed a little on my fingers then a little on the cases. I use all redding full length dies and never notice a problem.

Hillbilly

 

[fdshuster]

Fingers work every time. I just touch the surface of the Imperial Die Wax, picking up just the slightest amount for each case. I've never had a problem with not enough (stuck cases) or too much (dents in the shoulder).

 

[Forum Boss]

Die wax is great for heavy case forming. However, if all you need is lubrication for regular full-length sizing I strongly recommend Ballistol aerosol. It is clear, non-toxic, very slippery, and it will clean the carbon off your necks as you lube the cases. I use the aerosol version and just spray a bit on a cotton patch. Unlike the chalky lubes (Lee), the gummy lubes (rcbs), and the waxy lubes (Imperial), it goes on very easily and uniformly and it is easy to remove. You can also use the liquid version, diluted with water.

 

[K22]

Why bother with the mess? I've used Hornady's One Shot Spray lube for many years and never had a problem with full length resizing. It's simple and wipes off easily.

If you go that route make sure that you invert the sizing die and spray a little into the die, stand cases in a lube rack and spray making sure you cover all cases. I reverse the rack and spray from the opposite side to assure full coverage. Let stand for about two minutes before start sizing.

 

[navyrad8r]

in2deep,
if you are open to other suggestoind and just doing alot of FL resizing. 50% rubbing alcohol and 50% lanolin oil (from health food tree hugger store) in a $1 sprayer from walmart looks like spray butter when you mix it, acts like dillon case lube and is easy to apply. i put the brass in an empty plastic coffee can a couple of squirts and a good shake and your in business. i do use the imperial when i am doing the precision work and just a touch on the "affected area" will do it. you will "feel" when you have the right amount, or (not enough) but you will see if you have too much (case dents).
cheers,
doc

 

[in2deep]

I am open minded and will try anything so appreciate all the suggestions.
I thought maybe my application technique was stinkin on rice and may be the reason that I am experiencing a hard sensation on the end of the resizing stroke just above the case head and also noticed a shiney spot on the brass there from the die rubbing. The press works smoothly until the end of the stroke and seems like it is binding there a little so the die is tighter or my loads are getting hotter and causing this new issue. It's a 6BR up to 30.2 grains of Varget and should not be too hot yet. This happened coincidently when I got a new resizing die from Harrels so maybe the new die is tighter at the base than my old one and my next step will be to do some comparison measurements near the case head of fired and then resized brass.

 

[coyoteklr]

I've used imperial sizing wax for so long i can't remember when i started....
AND THE SECRET IS AS MENTIONED BEFORE..... JUST TOUCH THE WAX SOFTLY....
i hold the case by the shoulder and just do the bottom 3/4 's of the case and use thumb and pointy finger.....two rotations of the case and good to go.......i wipe the case off with a paper towel after sizing.... never had a stuck case......
the wax tin is about the size of a smokless tobacco tin and it should do 2800 to 3500 cases.......

 

[watercam]

Using Imperial wax also gives one the opportunity to quickly inspect (visually or by feel) the case for issues - split necks, dirt one does not want to run into ones dies, bulges, etc.. It is the only time I really check my cases before sizing and prep. I have not had the luck with One Shot that others have had. It works but I find the cases 'sticky' coming out of the dies - especially smaller case sizes.

 

[1shot]

I also have been using Imperial simply because it works, and as “Watercam” said, it gives me the chance to give the brass a good once over. Just an added trick that I have been using for years is after you have sized and de-primed all your brass. Lay an old white towel on the floor and dump all your brass on the towel. Go to Wally World or any auto parts store and buy a couple cans of “Brake Kleen”(Wal-mart’s brand) or any other name you choose. Electrical contact cleaner is the same chemical as well. Put the stem on the nozzle and give your brass 3-4 second blast. Grab the 4 corners of the towel, pick the brass up by the towel corners and roll it back and forth for 5-10 sec. This will rinse off the Imperial and leave it on the towel. You will be left with clean, dry brass as this stuff evaporates very fast. It cost about $2.50 a can, or you can buy Gun Scrubber for $9.00 a can and get the same chemical. As a side note, if you have hornets, wasps etc. that seem to get more ill tempered than normal in the fall, this stuff will kill them dead before they hit the ground and it costs a fraction of Raid etc. and works better.
I hope this helps,
Lloyd

 

[artbosco]

The press works smoothly until the end of the stroke and seems like it is binding there a little so the die is tighter or my loads are getting hotter and causing this new issue.

This happened coincidently when I got a new resizing die from Harrels so maybe the new die is tighter at the base than my old one and my next step will be to do some comparison measurements near the case head of fired and then resized brass.

Have you always full length resized?

You might try just a tad more lube or use a pad with RCBS case Lube 2. The pad will ensure all parts of the body are lubed evenly.

If the Harrell's die seems a little tighter near the case head or base it's because now you've got a die that's doing the job correctly.

 

[in2deep]

I fl resized initially with a Forsters die then just used the bump die last couple times so it could be that the cases expanded quite a bit after a couple cycles and your probably right about the Harrells die having to oversize them a bit to bring them back to spec.
I mic'ed a few cases and it appears that's what happened and is the reason I am going to use the Harrels to fl resize from now on after each firing since I have proved to myself that should keep the brass more uniform and not allow it to grow too much in the first place.

 

[artbosco]

I fl resized initially with a Forsters die then just used the bump die last couple times so it could be that the cases expanded quite a bit after a couple cycles and your probably right about the Harrells die having to oversize them a bit to bring them back to spec.

I mic'ed a few cases and it appears that's what happened and is the reason I am going to use the Harrell's to fl resize from now on after each firing since I have proved to myself that should keep the brass more uniform and not allow it to grow too much in the first place.

Bravo! You got it! You're on the path to fewer headaches. Harrell's die didn't oversize them to bring them back to specs but rather rightsized them. Good shooting.

 

[TC]

I'm using the RCBS pad and lube the inside of the necks lightly after having cleaned the brass. When i drop the powder quite a bit sticks to the inside of the case neck and the odd grain or 3 tends to pop out when removing the funnel. Is it essential to lube the inside of the case necks or do any of the alternatives mentioned above avoid this problem ?

 

[jo191145]

I'm using the RCBS pad and lube the inside of the necks lightly after having cleaned the brass. When i drop the powder quite a bit sticks to the inside of the case neck and the odd grain or 3 tends to pop out when removing the funnel. Is it essential to lube the inside of the case necks or do any of the alternatives mentioned above avoid this problem ?

If your using an expander ball it is crucial to lube the inside of the neck.
Using any sticky lube such as yours it should be removed prior to loading. The old fashioned method is to tumble again after sizing to remove the lube. I'm sure there are other methods. I think they're all more of a pain than its worth.

Any die I use that still has an expander ball gets lubed with Imperial dry graphite on the neck ID's first. Clean graphite from outside of neck then lube outside with Imperial wax.. Size, clean wax off with rag and its done. You can leave the graphite inside. It will change load specs but as long as you size with the same method everytime it will not matter. Franford Arsenal makes a cheap but useful dry lubing station with well and brushes. Could'nt live without mine unless I switched to all bushing dies.

 

[artbosco]

Is it essential to lube the inside of the case necks or do any of the alternatives mentioned above avoid this problem ?

It is NOT essential and is Not good practice to lube the inside of a case neck. Powder mixed with lube does not make for a good propellant, if it did, all the powder manufacturers would have included it as an ingredient. Keep it out of the neck.

The small amount of carbon residue that resides in the neck, even after a nylon neck cleaning brush has been run through it, is enough to facilitate bullet seating and whatever else someone might want to run through it.

Exception: For those who go through the laborious process of Ultrasonic cleaning [yes, I've tried it, briefly. Anyone want to buy an ultrasonic cleaner at a good price?] some of the dry lubes that are offered are probably a necessity.

 

[rogn]

And unlubed inside case necks will cause FL sized cases to grow when they get dragged over the deadly expander ball.

 

[jo191145]

Pulling an expander ball through an unlubed neck is never a wise idea.
You may get away with it in certain apllications, ie bushing dies etc.
Easy enough to assume a majority of folks asking about lube procedures are probably still using entry level standard dies which can oversize a case .010"
In a case like that an unlubed (and some wet lubed) expander balls can tear the carbon right out of a neck. Or worse yet just some of the necks. Accuracy suffers greatly under such conditions. Been there, seen it. The biggest reason I use bushing dies is to leave that carbon untouched and negate the need for lube of any sort. Not working the brass is a coincidental benefit.

If theres an expander ball involved I use dry graphite inside the neck. It has many more benefits than detractors.

 

[TC]

So to confirm, graphite on inside, imp wax on outside which is then wiped clean ?

 

[jo191145]

TC

Thats how I do it. I'm sure theres 999 other methods ;D
I no longer tumble clean brass in any of my rifles. Found no benefits in doing so, why bother? Therefor I do not want to attempt tumbling sticky lube out of the necks.
If I necksized with my bushing dies theres no lube at all, in or out. Unless they're freshly annealed that is, or perhaps sonic cleaned. I could sell one of those too
All my necksizers are retired except for the ones I use in conjunction with a body die.
So for me its FL size everything with Imperial wax on the outside. If there is an expander involved its imperial dry graphite on the inside.
I'll brush the inside of the necks first. Always clean off the excess graphite from the outside of the case. Let that mix with the wax and it would make one terrible black gooey mess I'm sure.
Then just FL size the case using wax outside. Clean wax with rag also. Done.

Cheap but effective and useful. Comes with a small quantity of useless white powder mica lube. Immediatly toss that stuff in the trash.

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=197010
And the Imperial products.
http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=319390

http://www.midwayusa.com/viewProduct/default.aspx?productNumber=519525