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Looking to get into f class

So im interested in getting into f class and had a few questions .. I feel i have pretty good shooting technique ive been shooting my whole life ..but i have no long range experience beyond 350 yard and know real wind reading knowlege .. Looking for thoughts on if i should build a 308 or go a 6.5 for open class to start ?
And if i were to build a rifle that shoots in the .4's consistantly would that be good enough to start or should i break the bank. And build one that shoots in the .2's ?
Thanks guys
 
A few questions here: 1.) Do you plan on shooting F-T/R or F-open? That will clear up some cartridge questions. 2.) How far (distance for shooting as in 300, 600 or 1000 yards) is the mainstay of your shooting going to be? 3.) How much are you willing to spend on a rifle / scope combination? 4.) To what extent do you reload? Do you turn necks? Anneal? etc..etc.. 5.) Do you have a mentor to really help get you started? Knowing these things will really help in answering your question(s)..
 
A few questions here: 1.) Do you plan on shooting F-T/R or F-open? That will clear up some cartridge questions. 2.) How far (distance for shooting as in 300, 600 or 1000 yards) is the mainstay of your shooting going to be? 3.) How much are you willing to spend on a rifle / scope combination? 4.) To what extent do you reload? Do you turn necks? Anneal? etc..etc.. 5.) Do you have a mentor to really help get you started? Knowing these things will really help in answering your question(s)..

Im looking for suggestions on whether to start in f open or f-t/r
Planning on shooting mainly at 1000 yards
I do not have a mentor
I reload but do not currently anneal or turn necks
Budget : id like to try to keep it under 2000 in upgrades to one of my rifles i already own rem 700 or a savage model 10
 
Well in that case I would suggest getting into F-T/R. Just a really nice front rest for Open will run 1/2 of your budget. There are quite a few EXCELLENT F-T/R shooters on this forum that can help you out as a mentor, even if it's using the "P.M." function here. Before I would buy a Savage, I would look for a nice F-T/R rifle in the sales section of this forum. You can find some excellent buys if you take your time. The main "problem" with a Savage is that it has a very poor trigger system and can be problematic with "slam-firing".. I have also found some very good deals on scopes here. Take your time and search for a good used rifle here with used scope. That will get you started. Ask for help from someone on here who is an F-T/R shooter. My personal opinion is that F-T/R is the more difficult of the 2 (Open or T/R) and certainly the less expensive to get into. But get into it "right" or you will wish you did and spend more money in the long run than taking this advice up front.
 
Im looking for suggestions on whether to start in f open or f-t/r
Planning on shooting mainly at 1000 yards
I do not have a mentor
I reload but do not currently anneal or turn necks
Budget : id like to try to keep it under 2000 in upgrades to one of my rifles i already own rem 700 or a savage model 10
Like many specialty sports, you don't know enough when you're just starting out to know what you don't know. Participate in half a dozen events and you'll learn more than you can imagine; therefore, purchasing your "dream" equipment on day one is foolish. That goes for target shooting, car racing, computer stuff, sexual experimentation with the opposite sex, and lots of other sports.

You'll need a couple of things to get started. A rifle with a rest for F-open or a bi-pod for F/TR. The stuff you own will do just fine to begin with. Don't show up until you can shoot a 1/2 MOA five-shot group at 100 yards and until you know how to work a ballistic app well enough to figure out how to adjust you scope to go from a 100 yard zero to a 600 yd zero (or whatever range your club uses). When you can do that, don't wait any longer. Find a local F-class match and go for it. If you don't have a shooting mat, bring an old quilt. Don't expect to win, but expect to have a lot of fun and meet some nice people.

Depending on your eyesight, you may or may not need a fancy scope. I'm older than dirt and going blind in my shooting eye, so I use a medium priced 50 power scope. But if your eyes are good, chances are a scope you already own will be OK to start. Can you see a golf ball at 600 yards or a tennis ball at 1000 yards? If so, you're OK to begin with.

You say you prefer 1000 yards, but you are likely to find more events will be held at ranges of 600 yards.

Anyway, once you're barely capable, load up 80 rounds of your best stuff and get out there. Show up a little early, find a friendly shooter, admit you're clueless about F-class but that you're an experienced shooter, and see if he will take you under his wing. Chances are he will or someone will. Once you get your sea legs, ask to look through various fancy scopes to see how you like them. Unfortunately, the expensive ones are better, but you already know that. Ask about rests, bipods, rear bags, stocks, actions, barrels, bullets, powder, and all the other stuff you can spend your money on. Keep shooting with the equipment you already own until you know what you really want/need.

Now for the bad news. Unlike some sports, you can't buy yourself a first place finish by spending a ton of money on equipment. Once you can shoot 1/2 MOA at 100 yards, you will need to learn how to read the wind before better equipment will help very much. They say "F-Class is all about the wind"............... sad to say, that is all too true.
 
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Go to a match and look at set upd, talk to the director, he will help you out a lot and oair you up with someone that will guide you during a match. Go watch a match.. not a spectator sport, but you will figure out how it all works..

Shoot what you got and learn first. Even if you cant fit in a catagory, most places will let you shoot off to the side. Meeting and talking to the director will be the first step to jump in...
 
When I became interested in competition I showed up at a 600yd match as a spectator, watched on the line, asked questions before and mainly after the match (when shooters had more time), and assisted pulling targets in the pits. I was hooked from the first relay!. With your experience and likely equipment I would suggest starting at 600yds. At 1000yds it will be more difficult and frustrating to discern a poor shot as a result of a bad wind call, variance in your loads, or from grouping limitations of your rifle. Regardless, if you feel the compulsion to shoot F-class I highly suggest jumping in with both feet....the water is fine!
 
Dont even tty 1000 yards yet... get good at 600 yards..
Go start shooting clay birds at 600 yards 1st shot, when you can break the clay bird in one shot and do 15-20 in a row then you can shoot decent in a 300-500 yard match
 
Dont even tty 1000 yards yet... get good at 600 yards..
Go start shooting clay birds at 600 yards 1st shot, when you can break the clay bird in one shot and do 15-20 in a row then you can shoot decent in a 300-500 yard match
Well the thing is the only matches around are at 1000 ... And the small range i shoot 350 yards at was sold and will be closed end of the month .. Fwiw i can hold 2 1/2 inch groups at 350 with a varmit rig with a cheap vortex scope harris bipod and rear bag
 
Well the thing is the only matches around are at 1000 ... And the small range i shoot 350 yards at was sold and will be closed end of the month .. Fwiw i can hold 2 1/2 inch groups at 350 with a varmit rig with a cheap vortex scope harris bipod and rear bag
You are good to go then. I would ask and see if they shoot any classes that allow 'run what you brung' so you can shoot with your current equipment to determine if you will want to pursue the game and to see what your equipment choices are by talking/watching with the other competitors.
 
I have shot one whole 1000 yard match so do consider that. It was howling wind March day and I dragged my 6BR and Caldwell Rest out to the line. I was shocked at how much the wind blew the bullets. I had three minutes in my scope and held to the edge of the target frame when I got my first "x". But boy it was fun. Most of the rifles there cost more than my car. (Ok it is a kinda old car). But those folks with those high dollar rifles were very helpful. In the end I won the fastest target puller trophy. So I'd say just get after it with what you have if it will reach 1000 supersonic.
 
I'd say go with what you have or can afford. You don't need a $1000 rest to get started in Open. You can go out with a $1000 rifle shooting 1/2MOA and a bipod and what will limit you will be your wind reading skills. Once those are good enough that it's your equipment holding you back, then it's time to upgrade and hopefully you've been saving.

I shot my first two matches with my hunting rifle in 243AI and it held very nice vertical and its 1/4-1/3 MOA accuracy was evident. My lack of practice reading wind consistently over 20 shots was evident as well. The latter had more to do with my score than the former. A top shooter with a 1 MOA gun likely would have beaten me.
 
My son and I started f open last year with a Savage model 12bvss single shot, screwed on a shilen select match barrel for $350 in 6.5 creedmoor and we were off and running, shooting the same gun between the two of us definitely worked the gun, we now have a second rifle and they both shoot fine, (haven't taken first yet but haven't finished last either). You can find a decent front rest between $200-300, a rear for close to $100 and you should be good to go, I've seen a few people do just fine with a factory savage f class 6br, later on you can then find out what you do and don't like! We started with a 600yrd match last year, did fine, then shot a 1000yrd match in WY., this year we're going to finish up with our 5th match in Missoula at 1000yrds, hooked and loving it! This is how you grow the sport, getting us newer shooters to give it a try, you should definitely try to have an idea what your gun does at 600 yrds before just showing up though! P.S. after that $.02 worth, I now need to save up for some more ammo!
 
Ok here is my opinion, it is worth every cent you paid for it. I would say start in F T/R. Use your Savage model 10 as a base. Get a Rifle Basix trigger, Target/Varmint style stock( I use an HS Precision from Stockys. Good solid comfortable stock), Get a premium barrel(Bartlien, Rock Creek, Hawk Hill, ect.. and a nice adjustable scope. A harris notched leg swivel bipod and an old sock filled with polystyrene beads for the rear, or a nice rear bag, I happen to be cheap. This should be with in your budget and can get you to Master or High Master Classification.

Here is why I suggest this. The range I shoot at has several HM Classed shooter in open class that use this set up. But using $800 plus front rests. So I think F T/R is the way to go since you are just getting started. I shot my first match ever at 1000 yards and only had a 100 yard zero. I knew my ammo (175 SMK and 44.0 gr Varget) ran 2650 fps. I put the info in a ballistic calculator and taped the info to my rifle stock, wrote it in a note pad and memorized it. When I got to the range I dialed it in and was on target on the first shot. If they hold a practice day the day be fore the match at your range even better.
 
Anyone running 223 gassers in FTR ? I have a real nice lower and if it is done with a high quality upper & barrel......Or it is a waste of time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$..........Thanks
 
Anyone running 223 gassers in FTR ? I have a real nice lower and if it is done with a high quality upper & barrel......Or it is a waste of time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$..........Thanks
Well I have no experience using a gas gun but I used a 223 for F T/R until this last match after using a 223 for 1 1/2 years I decided to put it a way and use my 308. You just give up too many points due to the effects of wind. Just barely 9's would have been 10's it not for the wind. Run some calculations and see for yourself. With a 223 you have to be spot on for your wind calls. YMMV
 
Anyone running 223 gassers in FTR ? I have a real nice lower and if it is done with a high quality upper & barrel......Or it is a waste of time and $$$$$$$$$$$$$$..........Thanks
If you already own an AR-15 type semi auto and if you can tune it and your ammo to shoot 1/2 MOA or better and if you're interested in trying out F/TR, go for it. You'll have to feed it one round at a time, but otherwise it should work for a match or two to get your feet wet.

But nobody I know, even in local matches WAY down the food chain of mid range competition, would intentionally build such a gun for semi-serious F/TR work.

However, there is a Service Rifle Class which might appeal to you. Check the NRA High Power Rifle rules.

Alternatively, you may find your local range has a class specifically for a gun like what you propose or a "run what you brung" class. Since nearly everyone owns an AR-15 variation of one flavor or another, it is thought that by encouraging beginners to bring out their semi autos and shoot an F-class style match, they might get hooked on the sport. Ask around. Rules vary, especially when it comes to optics, so make sure you're legal at your local range.
 

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