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Looking for advice on my first "20"

I use 40 gr Hornady's on my 20 P. Easy "wildcat" to make and NO fireforming. Of course you do need the bushing dies and lots of .223 loading stuff works. I like to post this target of my 20 P with less than 20 rounds down the tube at 3750 FPS. Good luck.
 

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If you just want something different, you could do a 20 VarTarg Turbo (aka 20-222 Improved) but in all honesty the 20 VTT doesn't make a lot of sense when the 20 Practical is nearly the same thing but with less work. As if you didn't already have enough ideas being thrown your way. ;)

For me, I'd categorize them like this; If you are looking for something more minimalist with less bang/recoil/components and won't likely use it for anything more than, maybe, an occasional coyote but likely groundhog/chuck size and smaller, I would definitely lean toward a 20-222 or 20-221/20VT. But, if you want to shoot a little heavier bullet and coyote size critters will be the regular intended target I'd lean more toward the cartridges with more case capacity like the 20Prac/20Tac/204 Ruger/ or larger.
 
I would be doing it as a single shot with a “glue in” adapter.

My M700 has a single shot adapter. It's in a 20-221AI version. Love the cartridge but it doesn't feed if I just lay the round on the adapter, the short length doesn't abide the bolt lug gap well at all. Instead I have to push the round into the chamber with my pinky which is a PITA. I'm putting a 223AI barrel on that rifle soon and half the reason is using a longer cartridge so it will feed well.

On my CZ527, a repeater, with the same cartridge, I dremeled .050" off the front of the feeds lips on the 221 Fireball mag which greatly helped feeding.

Personally I'd rather have a mini bolt action or a falling block style single shot for the shorter cartridges.
 
There is a lot of info posted about it at www.smallcaliberclub.com

21.5 grains of powder with a 32 grain varmageddon bullet puts you right at 4,000 fps with excellent accuracy. Also I use a Pacnor 3 groove 11 twist barrel for most of my 20 Caliber rifle builds as they perform the best in my opinion.

Do you have any info on this?

I’m between a 20VT and 20P right now. I Ike the 20VT for the efficiency of the case and that it’s different from a 223(won’t go in the wrong rifle) and I like the 20P for the abundance of brass, ease of forming and speed.
 
There is a lot of info posted about it at www.smallcaliberclub.com

21.5 grains of powder with a 32 grain varmageddon bullet puts you right at 4,000 fps with excellent accuracy. Also I use a Pacnor 3 groove 11 twist barrel for most of my 20 Caliber rifle builds as they perform the best in my opinion.
Thank you.
I can't see anything on that forum without joining. Regardless, I'll look it up online now that I'm at my real computer. Thank you.
 
Plain and simple:
20 Practical
If you already have a 223 bolt face, the simple no nonsense choice is the 20 practical. In short, all you're doing is necking down 223 brass, it doesn't come much easier than that. As others have mentioned, the added benefit is the cost of a 20 practical; the cost of brass is marginal if not free. I don't know of brass that is available for less money than the 223. I've got enough 223 brass to last me a lifetime. Converting some for a 20 practical is as simple as it gets. The other basic fact that my 20 practical is one of my most consistent and best shooting rifles doesn't hurt either.
 
If you already have a 223 bolt face, the simple no nonsense choice is the 20 practical. In short, all you're doing is necking down 223 brass, it doesn't come much easier than that. As others have mentioned, the added benefit is the cost of a 20 practical; the cost of brass is marginal if not free. I don't know of brass that is available for less money than the 223. I've got enough 223 brass to last me a lifetime. Converting some for a 20 practical is as simple as it gets. The other basic fact that my 20 practical is one of my most consistent and best shooting rifles doesn't hurt either.

What dies are you using to neck it down and if using a bushing die, what bushings? I have a bit of Hornady .223 brass I can use (I'll keep the Lapua for the 223 until the necks split). I'm still up in the air, but moving toward the 20P for the cost of components.
 
What dies are you using to neck it down and if using a bushing die, what bushings? I have a bit of Hornady .223 brass I can use (I'll keep the Lapua for the 223 until the necks split). I'm still up in the air, but moving toward the 20P for the cost of components.

I am using a bushing die, I'll have to get back to you on which specific one; everything I use is Redding.
 
- I planned my first 20 caliber a couple months ago & thought about it a good bit before I put my plans into motion.

As has been stated by several posts, the 20 Practical is probably the easiest & one of the very best cartridge designs to pursue.

- I wanted something a little different & also had the funds to do a switch-barrel set-up so I went for 2 calibers.
Here's what I've got coming up. - Borden BR Action, ST-1000F Stock, 2 Krieger Barrels that are 6 groove, one will be a 1-11" tw, & the other a 1-10" - Both will get finished at 25" in length and be No. 11 contour. I choose the 20 VarTarg-Turbo (1-11 tw) and the 20 Practical (1-10 tw). - I have 500 rounds of both 222 and 223 Lapua brass to use & I'm going to neck turn both to have 0.012 necks. - I just got a couple of dummy rounds built and am in the process of pursuing a decent F/L die for the 20 VarTarg-Turbo. - After the gunsmithing work is completed I'm thinking of trying a new Vortex Golden Eagle scope on this rifle. - I want to get my wife involved in stool-shooting and I thought that the 20 caliber would be a good place to start along with the 6mm BR.

A Forum member (Mike from Conn.) helped me in the initial stages and provided some sample components which I truly appreciate.

Regards, - Ron -
 
- I planned my first 20 caliber a couple months ago & thought about it a good bit before I put my plans into motion.

As has been stated by several posts, the 20 Practical is probably the easiest & one of the very best cartridge designs to pursue.

- I wanted something a little different & also had the funds to do a switch-barrel set-up so I went for 2 calibers.
Here's what I've got coming up. - Borden BR Action, ST-1000F Stock, 2 Krieger Barrels that are 6 groove, one will be a 1-11" tw, & the other a 1-10" - Both will get finished at 25" in length and be No. 11 contour. I choose the 20 VarTarg-Turbo (1-11 tw) and the 20 Practical (1-10 tw). - I have 500 rounds of both 222 and 223 Lapua brass to use & I'm going to neck turn both to have 0.012 necks. - I just got a couple of dummy rounds built and am in the process of pursuing a decent F/L die for the 20 VarTarg-Turbo. - After the gunsmithing work is completed I'm thinking of trying a new Vortex Golden Eagle scope on this rifle. - I want to get my wife involved in stool-shooting and I thought that the 20 caliber would be a good place to start along with the 6mm BR.

A Forum member (Mike from Conn.) helped me in the initial stages and provided some sample components which I truly appreciate.

Regards, - Ron -
Sounds like a good plan. Try the 40 grain BIBs in the Practical. They've been the most accurate .20 bullet in both my 20Ps. I use VV133 and BR4s with them. Worth a try but with my bolt rifle, I didn't find any accuracy difference with turned necks.
 
- I planned my first 20 caliber a couple months ago & thought about it a good bit before I put my plans into motion.

As has been stated by several posts, the 20 Practical is probably the easiest & one of the very best cartridge designs to pursue.

- I wanted something a little different & also had the funds to do a switch-barrel set-up so I went for 2 calibers.
I choose the 20 VarTarg-Turbo (1-11 tw) and the 20 Practical (1-10 tw).

Isn't a 20 VTT nearly the exact same as a 20 Practical once you're done fireforming??? Just curious, but why bother with the extra work of a 20 VTT when the finished product is nearly the same as the 20 Practical?
 
Isn't a 20 VTT nearly the exact same as a 20 Practical once you're done fireforming??? Just curious, but why bother with the extra work of a 20 VTT when the finished product is nearly the same as the 20 Practical?

The 20 VarTarg -Turbo is based on the .222 Remington case with a 30 degree shoulder. - It has a little less capacity than the 20 Prac. or Tac.
Originally I was going to go with the straight VarTarg (parent is .221 FB brass) but I wanted to shoot 32 & 40 gr bullets in both barrels and still maintain the velocity. - Todd Kindler helped me decide on the Turbo version - He told me that he felt that of all the 20 calibers he felt it was the best balance in case capacity to bore size. - So, I'm going to give it a try.

Regards, - Ron -
 
The 20 VarTarg -Turbo is based on the .222 Remington case with a 30 degree shoulder. - It has a little less capacity than the 20 Prac. or Tac.
Originally I was going to go with the straight VarTarg (parent is .221 FB brass) but I wanted to shoot 32 & 40 gr bullets in both barrels and still maintain the velocity. - Todd Kindler helped me decide on the Turbo version - He told me that he felt that of all the 20 calibers he felt it was the best balance in case capacity to bore size. - So, I'm going to give it a try.

Regards, - Ron -

I'm aware the 20 VTT is a necked down and blown out 222. My point is, with regard to case capacity, they'll be nearly the exact same. To me, it just seems like a lot of extra cost and added work, for zero benefit, especially in a switch barrel setup.
 

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