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Looking for a new gun safe

I have always cussed at threads on gun forums for costing me money, but this one may definitely take the cake. I've also been looking at adding an additional safe because mine is overflowing. But after reading and watching videos, I'm strongly considering building a walk in safe addition onto my house. Concrete walls, floor and ceiling with a vault door entrance from inside my house. A contractor friend of mine recommended building it out of fox block and adding a Sportsman Steel vault door.
 
The attached file is a vault detail that I clipped (for privacy reasons) from a set of drawings I have. That's definitely the way to go. I almost replied yesterday with this but most don't want/can't go down this road.
I have always cussed at threads on gun forums for costing me money, but this one may definitely take the cake. I've also been looking at adding an additional safe because mine is overflowing. But after reading and watching videos, I'm strongly considering building a walk in safe addition onto my house. Concrete walls, floor and ceiling with a vault door entrance from inside my house. A contractor friend of mine recommended building it out of fox block and adding a Sportsman Steel vault door.
 

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I will be purchasing or looking for a new gun safe within the next couple months. I have always stored my gun growing up at my parents while I lived in apartments. I purchased my first house and will be moving in finally this week. So I can finally get my own safe.

I honestly got rid of a lot of my rifles and guns but still have my benchrest guns so I don’t need a huge one. 36 gun would be more than enough but I would still consider something slightly bigger. Any recommendations where to look ideally I’d have it delivered. I’m in Columbus ohio, we have cabelas and a place called vances as well as rural king. I know all 3 carry safes.
Buy one bigger than you think you will need. Trust me its the way to go. Just my two cents Tommy Mc
 
I was up at our local Sportsman's Warehouse last night. There
was probably about 10 different models. The one that caught
my eye was large enough to set it up as a panic room !! LOL
No price tag, just shipment papers plastered all over it. They
must have just got it off the truck.
 
I've been going over gun safety with my 9 & 10-year-old girls since they could walk & talk. That being said. The biometric drop safe (in particular, Moutec reviewed by article gives me peace of mind. Even though I'm pretty sure they wouldn't touch a loaded gun, I'm not betting mine, theirs, or anyone else's life on it.
 
The type of “safes” you can get at sporting goods stores are really just lock boxes to keep kids out. If you want to protect against theft and fire then insurance is worth it and way cheaper than buying a true safe.
This x1000. If you look carefully at the rating of many "gun safes" they are UL classified as "residential security containers" rather than actual safes. The fire rating is mostly worthless. Talk to a fireman sometime about how many guns he's seen survive an actual fire (likely answer: laughter).

Most "gun safes" use drywall inside a steel box. A real safe uses CONCRETE filled between layers of steel. Believe it or not, they are even heavier than a gun safe and have a real fire rating.

Since I have no heirloom or collectible rifles, I went the other direction and got a nice lightweight "Secure it" gun storage cabinet. It ships in a flatpack. It is about as secure as a "gun safe" but at much lighter weight.

I have insurance on my firearms. Every single thing is easily replaceable. So there's no point for me in a super expensive and very heavy and impractical "real safe."

 
Statistically speaking...
In the USA there are roughly 350,000 - 360,000 residential fires per year, and roughly 1,400,000 burglaries (likely both residential and commercial). My concern is more a burglary than a fire. Both are risks, but when shopping for a safe, it seems that protection from each should be considered separately from the other. Naturally they must be integrated in the construction, but I would prefer a strong, intrusion resistant safe #1, and fire resistance as an option and #2.
 
First of all, look for safes that offer adequate security features, such as a reliable locking mechanism, thick steel construction, and pry-resistant doors. To buy gun safes, you should check local retailers or those selling safes for the best price, such as The Safe Keeper. Now they have a range of Liberty Safes for sale.
 


Two similar size safes. One $11,000 the other $5,400 + 800 for fire liner protection = $6,200. Check the thickness of the steel on each. The Liberty may have two layers of steel with fire protection in between. Sturdy offers a magnum steel option that adds 3/16” steel to designated areas, $1,999 (6,200 + 1999 = $8,199). The Liberty weighs 1,585, the Sturdy with fire liner and magnum package weighs 1,955.

7ga = .176”

4ga = .232”
 
Many many safes are built in Provo Utah

Painted different colors/decals/specs

As mentioned...buy once/cry once

But what your budget says.......but buy one !
 
3. I read quite A few stories about the digital locks having issues,
My safe has a digital lock, started beeping really fast and finally I figured out it need a new battery. Replaced battery and it works great, still remembered "my" new code. So all good. Liberty safe.
 
My safe has a digital lock, started beeping really fast and finally I figured out it need a new battery. Replaced battery and it works great, still remembered "my" new code. So all good. Liberty safe.
It’s a good idea to pick a day each year to change out the old battery to a new one. Birthday or New Years day are good choices.
 
EMP proof lock would be something to think about also.
My Cannon has the key pad on top with a dial lock in the center so if battery dies for what ever reason you can get in.
 

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