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Loctite for scope rail screws?

Guys. Is there any reason I should not use loctite to secure the screws holding the Picatinny rail to the top of my receiver?

Unless there is a reason not to do so, I intend to use purple loctite.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Stubb
 
Have not seen the Purple version - only blue and red. Just make sure it is not the 'permanent' version as you will find some reason down the line to remove the rail (barreling for example). The Red is permanent and can be removed but needs a fair amount of heat application to do it. Blue is the one most use for this application, don't need more than a small drop per screw...
 
There is every reason TO USE LOCTITE. I am unfamiliar with the purple. I have always used the red. Heat gun heat is enough to turn it back to a liquid for removal. Cleaning the threads is important and Loctite does make a cleaner (prep) but I feel it is not needed for firearms. Just remember that you used it so you know to start with heat upon removal, as it is a bear get out without the heat.

An added note on rail mounting: If it's a Savage (maybe others) make sure the front rail screw is not TOO long and hits the barrel threads.
 
Sometimes the screw holes go all the way through the receiver to the bolt so do not use so much Locktite that some of it ends up on the bolt and gets inside the receiver.
 
Here is a good reason, most front bases, are directly over the barrel threads, Loctite has wicking action. So with that said it can get into the barrel threads, and cause a problem if you decide to re-barrel the gun.
 
82boy said:
Here is a good reason, most front bases, are directly over the barrel threads, Loctite has wicking action. So with that said it can get into the barrel threads, and cause a problem if you decide to re-barrel the gun.

Just found this:

http://www.midwayusa.com/Product/445105/loctite-222-threadlocker-purple-10-ml

Claims it's NON-wicking
 
stubbicatt said:
Guys. Is there any reason I should not use loctite to secure the screws holding the Picatinny rail to the top of my receiver?

Unless there is a reason not to do so, I intend to use purple loctite.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,
Stubb

I've used a lot of purple loctite on small screws in the past. It should work fine for rail screws. Blue is overkill for 6-48 or 8-40 screws...
 
Thanks a lot guys. Also special thanks for the admonition on the wicking properties of Loctite. The holes in the receiver are blind holes, so I am not too concerned, but I am glad you fellas mentioned it. It would have never occurred to me otherwise.

Purple it is then. :)
 
stubbicatt said:
Thanks a lot guys. Also special thanks for the admonition on the wicking properties of Loctite. The holes in the receiver are blind holes, so I am not too concerned, but I am glad you fellas mentioned it. It would have never occurred to me otherwise.

Purple it is then. :)

More commonly used loctite products...
Purple is for small screws, service removable.
Blue is for screws over 5/16" & service removable
Green is for whicking (already assembled screws) and sealing porosities, approx the same strength of blue.
Red is bearing & stud mount. Permanent, requires heat for removal.
Amber is stronger than red...
 
Never a need for loctite on rail screws. Using quality torx screws, a precision drilled and tapped receiver, and the proper torque value, you are good to go. They will not back out.

You will also see the mess you created on your threads when you have to take the rail off. Good luck cleaning that.
 
Charlie Watson said:
Never a need for loctite on rail screws. Using quality torx screws, a precision drilled and tapped receiver, and the proper torque value, you are good to go. They will not back out.

You will also see the mess you created on your threads when you have to take the rail off. Good luck cleaning that.

I fully agree - I have NEVER used any kind of sealant or loctite on rings or bases, and that includes belted magnums and a featherweight '06 hunting rifle. I never had a screw loosen.
 
These guys say to use it on their products. http://badgerordnance.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/10/Mounting-rings-and-bases.pdf
 
stinnett1981 said:
These guys say to use it on their products. http://badgerordnance.com/wp-content/uploads/downloads/2011/10/Mounting-rings-and-bases.pdf

Leupold says use a little oil - I do it so they cannot rust in place. There is no twisting motion to loosen a screw.

I think if you look on the internet, you can find someone that will tell you anything you want to hear, and find some people that do whatever you want, your way.

I guess in the end, you gotta pick what you like or believe in, and go with it.


Bonjour-1_zps190d8abf.jpg
 
I used to use the blue loctite. It sucked when I wanted to remove the rail. I ended up having to drill the head off one screw and setting it up in a mill to drill out the remainder of the screw. I learned to use clear finger nail polish from my brother and it works great. Just enough to keep from "backing out" from the vibration/recoil, but not enough to have problems trying to break it loose. Just a thought on an alternative...
 
Just a very small dab of the wife's fingernail polish is best ;)
Don't forget to shake it really good first
 
Purple Loctite is for studs and bearings. I used it years ago - it was called stud and bearing back then - on motorcycle main bearings which were not tight in the case. A poor solution for those cases but it did work.
 
If I do use blue loctite on 6-48 screws I put ONE DROP on wax paper then holding the screw at an angle just touch the first screw thread on the drop. Usually it will wick itself into the first few threads.

Nothing worse than buying a nice action with crappy mounts left on. I've found everything from gobs of green bearing mount to 2 part epoxy's. Get the mount off and find a pool of adhesive around the screw holes that has ruined the finish on the action.
 
More commonly used loctite products...
Purple is for small screws, service removable.
Blue is for screws over 5/16" & service removable
Green is for whicking (already assembled screws) and sealing porosities, approx the same strength of blue.
Red is bearing & stud mount. Permanent, requires heat for removal.
Amber is stronger than red...
Loctite needs to be identified by alpha-numeric designation. Going strictly by color will get you in trouble. Guess how I know.
 

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