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Lock rings and set screws..

Rsadams said:
Hey thanks everyone... I can actually get the hornady rings local.. But local means Cabelas, not cheap and an hours drive..lol... I will look at what it would also cost for the others to order online..
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When my wife does her Amazon thing I have her add a 6 pack or two of the Hornady Lock Rings. They run about $16 for 6 EA or roughly $2.70 each while not quite inexpensive I like the Hornady. The Lee Lock Rings have the rubber O ring groove cut and rather than steel like Hornady the Lee rings I have are aluminum. As to the RCBS flavor the piece of lead shot works or distributors like McMaster Carr Supply carry a wide range of tipped set screws for example nylon tipped set screws. I guess it's a matter of preference and jepp2 makes a good point in his post #9 as to being able to adjust and lock for a few thousandths change. Overall, Hornady from Amazon is my first choice. :)

Ron
 
With RCBS lock rings that have a lead shot under the set screw all you need to do is loosen the set screw a couple of turns and then hit the set screw head with a small piece of 2x4 or a wooden hammer handle. Works every time. Years ago that was documented in the die instructions but was dropped when they went with the brass set screws.

Cannon plug pliers work great to loosen up dies on the press and they don’t mar up the lock rings.
 
Hi. My name is jd, and I sometimes use the Lee lock rings.

Rest of group says, "Hi jd!! Glad you're here!! jd
 
Gator59 said:
With RCBS lock rings that have a lead shot under the set screw all you need to do is loosen the set screw a couple of turns and then hit the set screw head with a small piece of 2x4 or a wooden hammer handle. Works every time. Years ago that was documented in the die instructions but was dropped when they went with the brass set screws.

Cannon plug pliers work great to loosen up dies on the press and they don’t mar up the lock rings.
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What does this accomplish? Does it loosen the lead?

Thanks
 
While I agree that the split-ring rings are a better system then the lead shot/set screw rings, I can't see what the issue is. Once I've got my die body set to where I need it, I rarely, if ever, change the rings position.
 
jepp2 said:
My problem was, when you need to make very small adjustments (0.001 - 0.002") in shoulder movement during sizing, any lock ring set screw or split ring don't work well. If you tighten the split ring when the die is in the proper position, you can't loosen the die. And a set screw without lead, with lead, with acetyl ball, all seem to make moving the lock ring a small amount very difficult.

So I converted all my dies to using an O-ring under the lock ring. I NEVER have to move the lock ring, I can make any adjustment I need to with just tightening or loosening the die slightly. I make a reference mark with a Sharpie, just to get me close. It is the same concept as the Lee lock rings utilize (which I hated at first), but now have come to appreciate.

I do use the split ring on my bullet seating dies that are used in my Forester Co-axial press. Works well there.
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exactly how i do it, o-rings are the best for me. Helps with alignment also. I use the redding lock rings, when you want to loosen them, back the set screw out a bit so its past the lock ring, and tap the set screw on the bench. loosens up the shot and it turns easy. If i take the die out of the press, I have a mark to re-install it.
I use the widden click adjustable rings in the trimmer, I do mostly melplat trimming and am always adjusting so they make it easy.
 
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A note on the Hornady lock rings. Lightly tighten the ring on the die before trying to seat so the threads are fully engaged before setting the die otherwise tightening the set screw will change the die setting.
 
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