I don't neccessarily agree with the setting up and tearing down method but perhaps, if you must, at least take a Sharpie and trace the leveling feet on the section of bench you use and place it in that exact location every time. May not work out exact but might cut down leveling time. When you do remove it, keep the leveling feet from moving as well. Even if you use a base, the base will have to be releveled as well I would imagine. But again, leave it set up once if you can. Good luck.So my AnD scale gets put away after every loading. And when it comes out it needs to get leveled again. And that is when the whiskey comes out.
What ithe the fastest way to get the bubble centered with the least frustration?Thanks
I would agree to set it up once and don't touch it. But I don't have the room on my bench for a permanent home.Don't put it away![]()
I have done the dimples.The bench I have my A&D on has a very smooth finish and I also have problems getting the scale to level. The problem for me is that as I am adjusting the leveling feet the scale "squirms" left and right. I am thinking of drilling 2 holes for the round dimple on the bottom of each wheel to sit in.
Likewise, I put mine away after loading and to make it easy to level again, using a Sharpie, I've marked my bench top where the feet are (like a semi-circle) with a reference mark on the semi-circle and feet. So, with I set up my FX, it's always on the same spot and in the same orientation. And to help, because the feet were kinda loose, I put just a little Loctite on the threads of the feet to keep them at the same length but with enough resistance that they can still be turned if I need to. When I set it in the designated stop, I rarely have to make any adjustment to get it level.So my AnD scale gets put away after every loading. And when it comes out it needs to get leveled again. And that is when the whiskey comes out.
What ithe the fastest way to get the bubble centered with the least frustration?Thanks
Four legs will always distort the base because you can’t balance the force equally on the four legs without complicated equipment.I have done the dimples.
I don't understand why the unit doesn't have four leveling legs. It seems to me that would be easier.
Hadn’t heard of that before. Which manufacturer suggested that? Talking about moving to 250, not the cover.When not in use, per the mfg.'s instructions, I position the beam by moving the counterweight to 250 grain line then cover it with a dust cover.
Lyman - move to 1/2 point on beam to take stress off knife edges - that's what they say - so I just follow theire instructions, hopefully they know what they're talking about.Hadn’t heard of that before. Which manufacturer suggested that? Talking about moving to 250, not the cover.
Three points define a flat plane, a fourth point or leveling leg will just have you chasing your tail.Four legs will always distort the base because you can’t balance the force equally on the four legs without complicated equipment.
Three legs sure is annoying but it’s very reliable.
Have you tested your scalp slightly off level to see if less than perfection is adequate? It should be very repeatable even if all charges are very slightly low or high.
David
Four legs will always distort the base because you can’t balance the force equally on the four legs without complicated equipment.
Three legs sure is annoying but it’s very reliable.
Have you tested your scalp slightly off level to see if less than perfection is adequate? It should be very repeatable even if all charges are very slightly low or high.
David
Three points define a flat plane, a fourth point or leveling leg will just have you chasing your tail.
