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Lee collet or redding S

I think that the lee collets are good if as said before don't pull the handle without a case in die. You will bend the collet fingers! I do deburr the collet and lightly lube with moly on the tips of the collet. They have their place and they are a lot cheaper than "S" dies.
 
wapiti25 said:
I think that the lee collets are good if as said before don't pull the handle without a case in die. You will bend the collet fingers! I do deburr the collet and lightly lube with moly on the tips of the collet. They have their place and they are a lot cheaper than "S" dies.

It would be a shame if because its made by Lee and because it is inexpensive, that we would regard it as cheap.
 
you just gotta love a Lee collet die.I have 4 sets and wouldn't own another brand.just as one has said setting them up and not running the ram up with out a case is the only trouble you will have.but for me polishing the matteing parts will help out alot.and if you want tighter necks just chuck the mandrel in a drill and run 320 over it to cut it down a litte.then polish it and you are good to go.
 
Many of the points made about the Lee collet dies sound good, but this raises a question:

If I understand this correctly, Lee collet dies actually squeeze the wall of the case neck between the collet and the mandrel, right? Does this eventually result in more growth in the length of the case neck (requiring trimming more often), compared to a "regular" non-collet die? Does the Lee die squeeze the neck wall thinner, to a an extent that neck splitting might occur earlier? Has anyone observed this?

A non-collet die sizes the case neck to a smaller diameter, but it does not actually compress the neck wall thickness. It therefore seems that the resulting changes in the neck wall would be slightly increased thickness and increased length of the neck, correct?

Not criticizing, just wondering ...

Randy
 
I believe the "washer thing" has to do with using the regular die for a Ackley Improved. I use a thin washer when I use my 260 die on a 260 AI. You do not want to jam the shoulder.

Bill
 
In my experience after 5 resizings of 223 there was no increase in case length, none.
The collett presses the neck up to the mandrel but doesn't continue any further and swage the neck wall thinner. When the die is set up according to instructions, you can feel the neck close using only moderate pressure on the lever. To continue beyond that point and squish the neck walls thinner, if at all possible, would take tremendous pressure.
 
its just as Tozguy said.it only closes the neck back to mandrel size.thats why one has to run the mandrel in a drill to make it smaller to get more neck tention.

but if you want to really feel the die at work just remove the primer before you resize the case.this will allow you to feel the collet doing its job.
 
I had a set of collet dies for my 7mag. They consistently shaved brass off of the head of the case. Pretty disappointed. I've got two or three Redding Comp S types. I have really enjoyed them. My runout is about as good as it gets .001 to .003 on average. This is measuring the neck after the bullet has been seated.
 
Johnboy has a good point. Doing each step individually is a good strategy for accuracy. Removing primers by hand allows you to feel any variation in pocket tightness from case to case. Then resizing allows you to feel just resizing.

BTW I caught on to collett dies from the 223 cartridge guide here at 6mmBR.
On page 2 it says about Lee collett dies "produces very straight ammo with low runout".
 
Lee collett dies work great! About all I use if I can get away with it. Got a .001 under mandrel from Lee for my .223 , use it in my .22-250 too, got a little more neck tension that I wanted for my PD guns, didnt have to, just felt better with a PD Hunting rifle.Had a 6BR set made , sent Lee fired brass and a few bullets, excellent !
 
Sorry Tozguy, I should have said inexpensive. The point I was making $18 for Lee and $60 for Redding. I have 4 Lee collets and 3 Reddings.
 
I have sized a large number of .300 SAUM Norma brass down to 7 in 3 steps using a Redding S die and my run outs are .003-.006 with most being on the higher end. This is trying different methods with mixed results. The wall thicknesses are very uniform and the results are the same with or without the expander. I have looked at the new Hornady concentricity gage + straightener to square them up after I load, but I would prefer to have them <=.001" first. Will the Lee fix my problem? I have not had such problems with my other Redding bushing dies, maybe the die is bad?
 
Hi all I am having problems reloading my .243 win.
Getting vertical stringing and poor grouping.
I am using a Forsters neck bushing / bump die with Lapua cases.
Feels like their is a ridge inside the bottom of the neck.
The bullet goes into the case as normal then hits the ridge or obstruction and requires more force to seat it then seams to click past the obstruction to seat at the required depth.
The force required is deforming the projectile and forming a ring from the seating die.
This ridge is giving inconsistent neck tension and stringing.
Previously used a Lee collet die no problems other than the cases being a tight fit for many years.
Am I doing something wrong, is the die forming an internal ridge when it bumps the shoulder , I thought the Forsters die would cure tight fitting cases and neck size but has given more problems. !!!!!!!!.
Any advice ?.
 
I purchased a Lee collet die in .223 Rem. I was the single worst item of reloading kit I have ever used, owned, or tested. My experience was similar to Monte's first die:

That said... I have a Lee Collet die in .308 Win. Actually, I have two. First one... POS. After a few,25 or so) rds it'd start feeling 'sticky' as the collet first started to close down around the mandrel. About two rounds later... it'd grab and shove the neck inside the shoulder, ruining the case. Since tearing the die apart and cleaning every 25 rounds or so didn't appeal to me, I set it aside. Tried all manner of suggestions... run it dry, lube it. Polish this, polish that. Do one thing or another. Nothing worked reliably. Figger it was a $15 lemon.

AFTER I deburred the fingers, polished the mandrel, polished (and made concentric the collet fingers that squeeze the neck and then lapped and polished the die interior, it started to work, sort of. However, it wouldn't size the necks consistently without lubing the necks.

I don't really understand the appeal of neck-sizing cases only. It takes as much time as full-length sizing. As for using Lee collets to avoid lubing cases... follow my suggestion and clean your neck outsides with Ballistol, then do a quick spin around the case. You'll never go back to one of the chalky or sticky lubes again.

I had heard some good things about Lee collets. The one I had was so bad, I actually got on the phone and spoke to Mr. Lee (Jr.) himself. I told him exactly what I wrote here, that his die was worse than useless because it damaged the necks.

And yes I followed the instructions to the letter. I found the main problem was that the tips of the collect fingers did not form a circle... or anywere near it. Also the mandrel was oversize, and very, very rough.
 
I purchased collet dies in .223 and .22-250 when they first came out and have loaded thousands of rounds with them and never had a problem. I think they are great dies. I think they are inexpensive, but not cheap.
 

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