Lee collet die.......amazing!

[boltman13]

For several years I used a Wilson bushing type die in my tight necked 308 Hunter Benchrest rifle. My results were not satisfactory primarily due to poor case neck turning. When I finally was able to consistently turn necks to the same diameter my scores improved. Then on a whim I tried my Lee collet die on my brass to see if it made any difference. To my surprise it was much faster and just as accurate. My routine now is to use a shoulder bumb die from Redding after each match to push the shoulder back enough for easy chambering, then at the next match neck size with the Collet Die and seat the bullet with my Wilson micrometer seating die. When my F-TR build is done I will use the same aproach except I will not be trimming necks on my Lapua brass. Mu arbor press is very premitive, but it was cheep, from Harbor Freight. I can't really say I feel much difference when I seat bullets one case from another, but that is probably due to the crudeness of my press.

 

[Valar]

I have used lee Dies for years with excellent results. I do not take to extreme as many here. I am a avid varmit hunter, not bench rest. Someone has to keep these Illinois Coyotes in check. I have done some extensive load workups down to tenth of a grain. I am amazed at the group consistancy. I enjoy all of the wealth of information on this site. Thanks to all

 

[Bradley Walker]

A brass case is a soft metal cylinder that can be shaped and reshaped and if it was once true and has become misshapen, I believe good dies will return it to proper specs.

My experience has shown that brass comes from the factory crooked and never really ever improves. Lapua and Norma are so much straighter than any other brass it's not even funny. LC is next best.

I never found that crooked factory brass ever really improved much...

 

[Clod-NC]

Hi gentlemen
Very interesting thread,since I'm an LCD user myself,and quite happy with them,I'll give anybody interested in it a hint as to improve the way they can work a bit smoother;I've done it and it does work,so here goes:when you get them or if you haven't done it yet,disassemble them,inspect the moving part that"squeezes" your case necks against the mandrel,and then ,with a piece of sand paper(the one used by car painters,400 or 600 grit,and polish the upper bent part of that piece(the shoulder so to speak),make sure you insist on it,it is easier with WD40;those of you who have a lathe will be at ease with this.Once you're happy with the result put a bit of graphite grease on this same shoulder and reassemble the die,you will feel a change when inserting the polished part into the main tube.Of course with the same paper grit you can adjust your mandrel diameter,using a drill and a caliper to make sure you don't overdo it. Just my 2 cents.Happy New Year to all.

 

[1holeaddict]

Great read. Im looking into trying the LCD in a 223 and 204 and any further input would be appreciated. Any tips on set up and this deburring- polishing that i hear so much about

 

[Jay Christopherson]

Great read. Im looking into trying the LCD in a 223 and 204 and any further input would be appreciated. Any tips on set up and this deburring- polishing that i hear so much about

I have a HF 7x10 mini-lathe that I do this on, but you could probably figure out any number of ways to do it. I disassemble the die, chuck up the parts that touch each other (body, collet fingers, etc...) and then use high grit (1000 and above) wet-dry paper to polish the points of each where they touch metal. Outside of the fingers that touch the inside of the body, etc... it takes like 10 minutes total. You aren't really removing metal, just giving them a smooth finish so that they interact with each other smoothly.

 

[1holeaddict]

Great read. I'm looking into trying the LCD in a 223 and 204 and any further input would be appreciated. Any tips on set up and this deburring- polishing that i hear so much about

I have a HF 7x10 mini-lathe that I do this on, but you could probably figure out any number of ways to do it. I disassemble the die, chuck up the parts that touch each other (body, collet fingers, etc...) and then use high grit (1000 and above) wet-dry paper to polish the points of each where they touch metal. Outside of the fingers that touch the inside of the body, etc... it takes like 10 minutes total. You aren't really removing metal, just giving them a smooth finish so that they interact with each other smoothly.

What is your loading process with the LCD? I was going to experiment as follows decap first,then full length size with minimum bump without button, then LCD to keep necks straight. Anybody follow this method and what are the results?

 

[thefitter]

I cut off the decapping pin on my mandrals. The absolutely last thing I do is run it through the LCD.

Decap
Bump (sometimes)
Wash
Dry
Chamfer (just a touch)
Prime
LCD

 

[Jay Christopherson]

I also cut the decapping pin off my mandrels. I know that it is supposed to help with alignment, but I have not measured any difference when not using it.

OOO -

decap
clean/dry
anneal (every 2 firings)
bump (when needed and followed by another clean/dry round if needed)
chamfer
neck size (LCD)
prime
load

 

[senna]

Torque wrench on the handle! That is perfect, i have been wondering how to get consistant crimps with the Lee factory crimper.

Also where can i find a collet die for 260AI? Ive heard some modfying of the standard 260 die to work for the ackley but seems scetchy.

The parent LCD will, in nearly all instances, work perfectly with the AI'd version with no modifications whatsoever.
I've also modified dozens of standard offering LCD's to work on cartridges shorter than the intended cartridge. .260 to 6.5CM or 6.5x47 L or .257 R for .250-3000 for instance. Also modified some for longer cartridges.

The LCD quite simply rocks.

 

[boltgunluvr]

Diddo.....it will be very interesting when patents run out. I believe several manufacturers will be entering the realm of collets. Hard to beat simplistic products that work very well.

 

[DanConzo]

Yeah it will be interesting to see if any others will make a collet type sizing die-I think the patent runs out this year. The LCD is amazing with a little slick up, I really like them and the price.

 

[birdyshooter]

I've been using my LCD for a couple years now and have grown to love it for my .308. We started out a little shaky until I learned it needs to be polished and cam'd over ever so slightly. I always start a fired round on it first because it will lengthen necks a tad. Then trim, chamfer, primer uniform, flash hole uniform, and then finally tumble. I do it this way to try and keep all the brass shavings out of the case come time to load. I'm over 6 rounds on lapua brass now with annealing every 2-3 rounds and have yet to have the need to bump the shoulders even with semi stout loads. Keeping the inside of the necks "dirty" has seemed to help with seating and es/sd.

Randy

 

[1holeaddict]

I've been using my LCD for a couple years now and have grown to love it for my .308. We started out a little shaky until I learned it needs to be polished and cam'd over ever so slightly. I always start a fired round on it first because it will lengthen necks a tad. Then trim, chamfer, primer uniform, flash hole uniform, and then finally tumble. I do it this way to try and keep all the brass shavings out of the case come time to load. I'm over 6 rounds on lapua brass now with annealing every 2-3 rounds and have yet to have the need to bump the shoulders even with semi stout loads. Keeping the inside of the necks "dirty" has seemed to help with seating and es/sd.



I have read that u dont want to cam over. From speaking to the techs at Lee and from my readings i understand that by caming over will blow the cap off.

Randy

 

[1holeaddict]

What about the 6 BR?? I read a few posts where guys are using a 6 ppc LCD for tge 6 BR. Some are swearing it works and some a saying no way????

 

[birdyshooter]

1holeaddict ~

There is a make or break point for sure with this technique, but it is the only way I have found to give me consistant neck tension every single time. I set the die so the press just barely cam's over and goes into what I call a "dead zone" where no more pressure can be applied. On my RCBS press the unit will pop into this zone and almost hold there without much force on the bar. Doing this has given me exactly .002 tension on all makes of brass so far.

Randy

 

[kelbro]

1holeaddict ~

There is a make or break point for sure with this technique, but it is the only way I have found to give me consistant neck tension every single time. I set the die so the press just barely cam's over and goes into what I call a "dead zone" where no more pressure can be applied. On my RCBS press the unit will pop into this zone and almost hold there without much force on the bar. Doing this has given me exactly .002 tension on all makes of brass so far.

Randy

I do exactly the same. Thousands of rounds and no damage to the dies. It is just barely a camover on a RockChucker. Not sure how much torque would be applied on other presses.

 

[savageshooter86]

good die but takes some learning and time to get the thing working just right. But once you do it is near perfect brass that it sizes the necks to and is a lot easier not to have to lube and then tumble again to remove the lube.

 

[blastit37]

Do any of you measure the case neck r/o after neck sizing with the LCD?

 

[savageshooter86]

non existent for me when I measured. The die does an amazing job

I checked prior to using the die then after and basically got better.