Laminated Stocks- what glue to use?

[katokoch]

I have revived / hijacked this thread to ask a similar related question. Last year I was given some curly walnut logs. I had them sawn to mostly 5/4" stock and air stacked them. I was wondering if I run them through the planer down to 1" and glue three or four layers together, depending on the lay out, is this thin enough? Any input is appreciated.

That'll do just fine.

 

[butchlambert]

I use West Systems 207 hardener and 105 resin on carbon fiber and wood laminates.

 

[pdhntr]

I have revived / hijacked this thread to ask a similar related question. Last year I was given some curly walnut logs. I had them sawn to mostly 5/4" stock and air stacked them. I was wondering if I run them through the planer down to 1" and glue three or four layers together, depending on the lay out, is this thin enough? Any input is appreciated.
Pdhntr that is some really beautiful work!

Thanks for the compliment. Good job on cutting them to 5/4. That is what I get mine cut to. The reason is the boards usually cup and twist and you need the extra width to smooth them out.

Keep in mind that if you just run them through the planer, you are going to get smooth boards with some cup and twist remaining. When you place them together to laminate you will see gaps and have to force them together with the clamps. This creates stress in the blank. If it is bad enough, you can end up with a blank that has a slight bow to it. Also what can happen, as you remove wood and inlet the blank, it will "move" slightly as it responds to the stress. This is not a big deal on a non-laminated stock as there are no reference points other than the center line. With a laminated stock, you want the barrel and trigger guard, etc., centered between the layers. This is harder than one might think.

After many trials I use a method that has worked well for me for many years. I use a "backer board" to plane one side perfectly straight and true. The backer board is a piece of pine that is 3" thick, about 8" wide and 45" long. The backer board must be thick enough to resist the force of the planer rollers so it doesn't flex as it is going through the planer. The bottom of the backer board is perfectly flat and smooth, no twist at all. First, I would cut your 5/4 boards to the blank dimensions. Make a template to use.

The laminates are temporarily glued to the top of the backer board with small "dollops" of body putty. Dollops need only to be as big as your little fingernail, and placed around the perimeter of the laminate. You want the putty to support the areas that don't touch the backer board so the planer rollers don't bend it down.

The body putty is left to set up just until it is firm and will support the laminate. Then the laminate (sitting on top of the backer board) is run through the planer. If the bottom of the backer board is true, then the top of the laminate will be true also.

I then use a putty knife and hammer to slide underneath the laminate and slice through the body putty to release the laminate from the backer board. The laminate now has one true side and can be run through the planer to true the other side. You must remove the hardened putty from the laminate as it will dull the knives of the planer.

This method will give you perfectly true laminates that will "lay up" together without any stress at all. The glue will layer itself evenly and your blank will come out without any pent up stress.

If you want pics of the backer board, or have any questions, let me know.

Jim

 

[spitfire_er]

I used titebond III on this one. I found a tiger stripe piece of maple that was returned to the luber yard and I figured that needed to become a stock. This was 3 pieces of 3/4"x8" maple. Stock has been finished for about a year and it's still holding strong.

 

[boogershooter]

Thanks for the help!

 

[Steve Blair]

I've never used anything other than Titebond. Holds like crazy and is waterproof.

[br]
That is true of Titebond II & III. They also make a variety of other woodworking glues, some of which are not waterproof. [br]
http://www.titebond.com/woodworking_glues.aspx

 

[butchlambert]

Still looking for help on a balsa carbon laminate hunting stock. I want to vacuum bag this.

 

[Steve Blair]

Still looking for help on a balsa carbon laminate hunting stock. I want to vacuum bag this.

[br]
What do you see as the problem, Butch? I've vacuumed veneer on both flat and curved surfaces successfully and it's not very difficult.

 

[butchlambert]

Steve,
I want to build a light hunting stock for my Pierce Titanium receiver.
Send me a PM if interested.