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LabRadar Recommendations

I purchased the LR and bag from LR.

I purchase the base and swivel from Arkcomachine.com. Here is the link to check it out on the site. I wouldn't waste my time on the LR base if it were me. The Arkco Machine base is great, very sturdy and folds up easily. Built like a brick house. The stand can remain mounted on the unit and still fits in the LR bag. The only thing is, I have found that I need to use the swivel more often as not to get a good signal. Could be me but what I have experienced. Because of that, I have to remove the base and swivel, but it still fits into the pocket on the front of the LR bag. So all is still good.

http://forum.accurateshooter.com/threads/new-style-base-for-lab-radar.3924363/

As for the battery pack, I purchased a $10 unit from Walmart. You don't need anything fancy. I tried attaching it to the battery cover with velcro but the weight and the air impact from firing the rifle made the battery cover fall off. So I just put it on the ground next to it now.

The cord is USB for connection to the Battery Pack and Mini USB to the LR. Connecting the Mini USB to the Battery Pack and the USB to the all charger provides double duty for charging the pack. I probably purchase too big of a battery pack but it also serves to charge my phone, tablet and other electronics. All fit nicely into the front pouch on the LR bag.

It takes a little time to get use to setting these up, at least it did for me, but once you do, you will love the features. I like that I can pull the SD card and everything is available in Excel format. You can also use the Bluetooth feature and control the unit via your phone. A nice feature when you have long barrels and the unit is out in front of the barrel.

If you shop around you can get the LR and Bag on sale sometimes or from an outlet that is offering a 10% plus free shipping deal. That is what I did at Cabela's. Had to order it, but I had a bunch of points and they had the above deal going at the time.
 
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Mine doesnt work on 1a. Needs the 2a plug to function.
Interesting, manual says it "requires 5V @ 1 amp" - I took that as max and run mine exclusively on the 1amp port - works fine - too damn scared to use the 2 amp port for fear of blowing the unit. Do you have a way to measure the output from your unit, perhaps it supplies below rated amps?
 
Appreciate the feedback guys. I did some additional research last night, and in conjunction with your feedback I'm thinking of the following.

LabRadar
Arko base
Battery Pack
Inertia/Recoil operated trigger
Pelican case


It looks like the inertia trigger is the key here, as it triggers the labradar to look for shots based on recoil...so you're not picking up other peoples shots. From what I gather, it enables you to place the LR anywhere next to the rifle without regard for suppressed/unsuppressed.

Does that sound right? Ya'll see any issues with that setup?

The inertia trigger will pick up closing the action so you still have to delete erroneous shots. It's not a big deal though.
 
My LR works great. I have kinetic trigger and can set the LR forward or back of the muzzle without any lost shots.

I am interested in the kinetic/inertia trigger for just this reason. It would be great if I didn't have to extend mounting the Labradar out past the end of the bench to be near the rifle's muzzle due to the short benches I shoot from. I could then use the nice Arkomachine foldable base to save some space.

Who makes the inertia trigger? How is it mounted on the rifle? Is it hard to get it to reliably trigger the Labradar? Got a photo of it in action? Any other info that may be helpful?

TIA
 
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We have one at our club with probably a couple dozen or more users. So far so good, and some of us (me for sure) are not the most technologically astute folks. I sometimes have to adjust the sensitivity level when there's folks on the range with braked or short barrel rifles. No big deal.
 
Interesting, manual says it "requires 5V @ 1 amp" - I took that as max and run mine exclusively on the 1amp port - works fine - too damn scared to use the 2 amp port for fear of blowing the unit. Do you have a way to measure the output from your unit, perhaps it supplies below rated amps?
I'm not sure. When I use the 1A side, and fire, the unit shuts off and back on like the power isn't enough to trigger the radar. I can view shots and what not on 1A.. just can't read new ones.
 
I have been trying to talk myself into a Labradar for a long time now as well. My dilemma is the rifles I mainly want to use it for are large magnums that wear 'clamshell' style muzzle brakes. The rifles can mow the grass with the muzzle blast in the prone position ;)

Could some of you please give some tips and pointers for how you use the Labradar on braked barrels? There's no way the unit would survive the muzzle blast setting at the positions shown in the pics on this thread. Thanks.
 
I have been trying to talk myself into a Labradar for a long time now as well. My dilemma is the rifles I mainly want to use it for are large magnums that wear 'clamshell' style muzzle brakes. You can mow the grass with the muzzle blast in the prone position ;)

Could some of you please give some tips and pointers for how you use the Labradar on braked barrels? There's no way the unit would survive the muzzle blast setting at the positions shown in the pics on this thread. Thanks.

I never had an issue with clamshells and 338lm with mine. I do position it to where the blast doesnt hit it directly but ive never really worried about it
 
I have been trying to talk myself into a Labradar for a long time now as well. My dilemma is the rifles I mainly want to use it for are large magnums that wear 'clamshell' style muzzle brakes. You can mow the grass with the muzzle blast in the prone position ;)

Could some of you please give some tips and pointers for how you use the Labradar on braked barrels? There's no way the unit would survive the muzzle blast setting at the positions shown in the pics on this thread. Thanks.

From what I've gathered...the inertia trigger.

https://jklprecision.com/product/labradar-trigger/

Crappy video:
 
Concerning amperage, this refers to the minimum amperage needed to operate a device. The unit will only draw the amps it needs. Think air conditioner. It may be rated
for 20 amps. If it, for some reason draws more than that, it should fault the circuit breaker and shut off.

By the largest capacity battery pack you can and enjoy the extra capacity to run other things. Remember that if you have battery operated power tools, they sell replacement batteries with various amperage rates. this allows you to use the tool for extended lengths of time. A USB connection will accept whatever amperage that is required. If using a banana connector, they have different ratings that apply to voltage, not amperage.
 
I've had zero issues with the orange plate base and battery sold by Labradar, and just following the instructions. A small tube (about the size of a straw) held in the v notch is a big help in lining up the target.
 
Concerning amperage, this refers to the minimum amperage needed to operate a device. The unit will only draw the amps it needs. Think air conditioner. It may be rated
for 20 amps. If it, for some reason draws more than that, it should fault the circuit breaker and shut off.

By the largest capacity battery pack you can and enjoy the extra capacity to run other things. Remember that if you have battery operated power tools, they sell replacement batteries with various amperage rates. this allows you to use the tool for extended lengths of time. A USB connection will accept whatever amperage that is required. If using a banana connector, they have different ratings that apply to voltage, not amperage.

That is exactly what I thought, something like an ignition coil, that can provide 40,000 volts, but it may only take 18,000 volts to fire a spark plug and that is all the plug will draw. If the plug needs 60,000 volts it will misfire. It is worse to not have enough power. Not having used this before, I wanted to ask. Power pack is 20,000 mAH. It should run the Labradar for a range session or two
 
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Concerning amperage, this refers to the minimum amperage needed to operate a device. The unit will only draw the amps it needs. Think air conditioner. It may be rated
for 20 amps. If it, for some reason draws more than that, it should fault the circuit breaker and shut off.

By the largest capacity battery pack you can and enjoy the extra capacity to run other things. Remember that if you have battery operated power tools, they sell replacement batteries with various amperage rates. this allows you to use the tool for extended lengths of time. A USB connection will accept whatever amperage that is required. If using a banana connector, they have different ratings that apply to voltage, not amperage.

Thanks for the clarification - will remember that. I'm always erring on the side of caution when it comes to those electrons - good to know I don't need to be in this case. ;)
 
I have been trying to talk myself into a Labradar for a long time now as well. My dilemma is the rifles I mainly want to use it for are large magnums that wear 'clamshell' style muzzle brakes. The rifles can mow the grass with the muzzle blast in the prone position ;)

Could some of you please give some tips and pointers for how you use the Labradar on braked barrels? There's no way the unit would survive the muzzle blast setting at the positions shown in the pics on this thread. Thanks.

I don't have any experience with brakes. Maybe this will be of some help?
 
LabRadar use with barrel with brake. I usually put the LabRadar 3"-6" past the muzzle and roughly 12-18" to the left or right of rifle. Using a Area 419 Hellfire Brake, the ports are swept back, putting the LR 6" past the muzzle will help the LR to not get blasted with muzzle blast. Same with the Brakes that point to the sides.

LabRadar does have youtube videos to help with this.

If using bows and perhaps pellet/bb/air guns, there's a setting to turn on the doppler continuously. For firearms the LabRadar triggers from the sound.
 
I have a battery pack that is sold for jump starting cars, it has USB outputs, would that work as a battery pack? I can make a base without difficulty, out of anything I want. If the car jumper wont work, could someone recommend a battery pack.
Yes
 

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