LabRadar Questions

[Charlie-NY]

I have the inertia trigger by JLK along with their magnetic mount. I never use it. The unit seems to trigger just fine but I do get acquisition errors on occasion. The triggering device won't help with that.

Generally, my muzzles are well out past the end of the bench and the LR is on the front edge of the bench. While this is not how they recommend you set-up it seems to work fine most of the time.

For transportation i use a hard case sold by Harbor Freight. It's called the "Apache" IIRC. The LR unit will fit in either of 2 sizes available and I bought the larger one for $60. There's plenty of room for batteries, cables, triggering devices, etc. It's avail in a few colors including bright orange which matches the LR, if that means anything to you.

 

[MarkG]

I found this on eBay and use an inexpensive red dot sight we had laying around the store. Easy to accurately aim and recheck POA periodically during the shooting session.

 

[skeeljc]

I used my Labradar for the second time today. I am shooting a .223 Rem. I have the unit set up 6" behind the muzzle and on the right side of the barrel with the unit 2" from the barrel. I shot ten strings of 5 shots today and the unit missed one shot on four of the strings. All the others were 5/5.

What could be causing this?

The previous time I used it it never missed a shot.

 

[RegionRat]

I used my Labradar for the second time today. I am shooting a .223 Rem. I have the unit set up 6" behind the muzzle and on the right side of the barrel with the unit 2" from the barrel. I shot ten strings of 5 shots today and the unit missed one shot on four of the strings. All the others were 5/5.

What could be causing this?

The previous time I used it it never missed a shot.

As often as not, this type of failure is the built-in transducer missing the shock impulse so the unit doesn't trigger.

I strongly recommend the external trigger if you want to avoid the problem.

The external trigger is easy to implement. It makes the bench layout between the muzzle and the radar far less sensitive. The only downside would be that anything that clicks loudly on the gun, like working the bolt hard, will cause it to false trigger, but that isn't going to mess up your data cause it will be obvious.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

New guy to the forum here. My labradar is on the USPS truck today getting delivered and I'm curious what you guys use to transport them to the range in. Are you using the LR bag or something else?

I already have a battery pack I use on hunting trips, and going to see how the internal trigger works before I buy the external version.

Also, anyone use the base made by one of the members here, and is it worth the $85 to acquire?

Got this double layer weatherproof case from Harbor Freight. Brand name is “Apache”. Been using them for years to keep other items safe and dry and they are great cases. Have to get the largest size case if you want to have room for accessories. The medium size will work but would be a little tight.

The “AOKA” tripod I got from Amazon. Ive had the tripod for a couple years and been using it as a lightweight pack pod for spotting in the mountains during hunting season. It’s carbon fiber and can be very low for prone shooting as well as give a lot of height for bench shooting.
Not very sturdy in the wind when extended to higher heights but nice an compact so it fits in the case with the Labradar. I have a couple big Manfrotto tripods I can use if it gets too windy and I need it at a higher height. The AOKA tripod legs have 3 angle positions so they can be spread out wide and made very sturdy at lower heights.

I used a large double sided adhesive strip to attach the rechargeable power pack on the battery door. Can easily remove the power pack by removing the battery compartment door. Power pack is carefully positioned so it will not block any buttons when the USB cable is connected from the pack to the unit.

Will add spot below the battery charger in the case for the inertia trigger and modify the Labradar unit foam inletting for the aftermarket sight when they arrive. Will probably also add spots for Pens/Sharpies and a small notepad.

 

[Kevin Paul]

Got this double layer weatherproof case from Harbor Freight. Brand name is “Apache”. Been using them for years to keep other items safe and dry and they are great cases. Have to get the largest size case if you want to have room for accessories. The medium size will work but would be a little tight.

The “AOKA” tripod I got from Amazon. Ive had the tripod for a couple years and been using it as a lightweight pack pod for spotting in the mountains during hunting season. It’s carbon fiber and can be very low for prone shooting as well as give a lot of height for bench shooting.
Not very sturdy in the wind when extended to higher heights but nice an compact so it fits in the case with the Labradar. I have a couple big Manfrotto tripods I can use if it gets too windy and I need it at a higher height. The AOKA tripod legs have 3 angle positions so they can be spread out wide and made very sturdy at lower heights.

I used a large double sided adhesive strip to attach the rechargeable power pack on the battery door. Can easily remove the power pack by removing the battery compartment door. Power pack is carefully positioned so it will not block any buttons when the USB cable is connected from the pack to the unit.

Will add spot below the battery charger in the case for the inertia trigger and modify the Labradar unit foam inletting for the aftermarket sight when they arrive. Will probably also add spots for Pens/Sharpies and a small notepad.



View attachment 1256969View attachment 1256970View attachment 1256971View attachment 1256972View attachment 1256973View attachment 1256974

Thanks for the detailed explanation on your case. Think I am going to do something similar. I have a Milwaukee Packout that I got for a song and will use the big bottom case for all my range gear, but use the smaller top box for the Labradar and associated gear. Just need to source some foam.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

Thanks for the detailed explanation on your case. Think I am going to do something similar. I have a Milwaukee Packout that I got for a song and will use the big bottom case for all my range gear, but use the smaller top box for the Labradar and associated gear. Just need to source some foam.

That should work really good too. Foam is easy to find.

 

[Ledd Slinger]

My sight arrived. Got this one on eBay. Has a level on top as well but not sure how much that will matter when it’s pretty rare that targets are exactly level with the muzzle of my rifle. I like how it has the crosshair in it for a more precise aiming point. Comes with new longer mounting bolt as well. Should work good.

 

[skeeljc]

I use the LR cloth case. It has a pocket to hold the battery and any cables and the instruction manual.

As to a base, I use a Travel Tripod I got on Amazon, because my barrels ( 26") hang well off the front end of the table, and I place the muzzle about 1" in front of , and 2-3 " to the side of the center of the side of the LR where the microphone is located.

If you use the base, you have to move the butt of the rifle far enough back to get the muzzle next to the LR.....OR.... get an external trigger. Also it helps if you have the LR on a ball head to help align it

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Note the 1/4 diameter brass tube on the top, which I use for aligning to the target.

View attachment 1256681

View attachment 1256682

The longer tube slides into the shorter tube, and stores in the LR case.
These are brass tubes by https://ksmetals.com/
available at hobby shops or amazon or direct.

I am going to attempt to replicate your tube sight. How did you establish the position/alignment of the short tube that is epoxied to the Labradar case?

 

[RegionRat]

@skeeljc , If you have any drafting tools or carpentry tools, you can throw a square on the case and get a good idea of the orthogonal line using the longer back surface. It is much easier that way than using the little v-notch they molded into the top.

Real Doppler RF fields are difficult to measure, so most of us just square up on the case body. I think the beam divergence is forgiving so you will be okay with just getting your sight line orthogonal to the case.

Gently clamp yourself up with the unit facing somewhere at a distance. Then aim the whole case body at something near infinity using the carpenter's square. Then transfer the alignment to your new sight. You will likely be well within a small fraction of a degree.

 

[whatsupdoc]

I have found that aiming the Labradar is not critical, most issues are due to the blast sensor not
correctly picking up the blast.

If you place the Labradar so that it is one or two inches forward of the barrel and four to six inches
to the left or right it should work 100%.

 

[RegionRat]

Just a little food for thought.

 

[mchees1]

After several years of using my Labradar, I would say an external trigger is an absolute must. Well worth a small investment (about $50 for magnetic mount). Also, do you check the signal strength bars? If you have it aimed correctly, you should get all of the bars on every shot.

 

[powderbrake]

I am going to attempt to replicate your tube sight. How did you establish the position/alignment of the short tube that is epoxied to the Labradar case?

I simply laid it in the v groove on the top of the LR.

NO EPOXY.... I used silastic, bathtub caulk. In case the unit ever had to be opened.

I also spray painted the INSIDE of the long tube to eliminate reflections. I used flat black.

I also put a rubber washer on the end of the tube as an eye protector.
You can lay this long tube in the case with the LR.

 

[skeeljc]

I simply laid it in the v groove on the top of the LR.

NO EPOXY.... I used silastic, bathtub caulk. In case the unit ever had to be opened.

I also spray painted the INSIDE of the long tube to eliminate reflections. I used flat black.

I also put a rubber washer on the end of the tube as an eye protector.
You can lay this long tube in the case with the LR.

View attachment 1257434

I should have read your post first. I just used epoxy to secure the outer tube. I removed it and cleaned off the epoxy (thank you 60 minute epoxy). Then I used clear silicone. Thank you.

My OEM V-groove did not line up well as the case halves were off some. I used a 1/4" course rasp to draw file the V-groove into a seat for the 1/4" outer tube. I opened the V-groove into a semi-circular notch and kept filing until the tubes were aligned perpendicular and square to the front face of the unit. It was easier than I thought to align the tube by filing the notch.

How did you paint the inside of the smaller tube? Is this really necessary? I have never had an issue with glare when bore sighting a rifle.

 

[DDRH65PRC]

I just used a straw and taped it on the notch

 

[JimSC]

Just a little food for thought.

interesting video. Kills argument that they are more accurate than an optical

 

[powderbrake]

I should have read your post first. I just used epoxy to secure the outer tube. I removed it and cleaned off the epoxy (thank you 60 minute epoxy). Then I used clear silicone. Thank you.

My OEM V-groove did not line up well as the case halves were off some. I used a 1/4" course rasp to draw file the V-groove into a seat for the 1/4" outer tube. I opened the V-groove into a semi-circular notch and kept filing until the tubes were aligned perpendicular and square to the front face of the unit. It was easier than I thought to align the tube by filing the notch.

How did you paint the inside of the smaller tube? Is this really necessary? I have never had an issue with glare when bore sighting a rifle.

Nice job on correcting the groove on top.

I simply sprayed the paint into the tube, shook out the excess. I believe any darker color would work. It reduces the glare a lot.