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Labradar how to outfit for best results.

Cecil S.

Gold $$ Contributor
I know its been talked about but I would like to hear from the Pistol shooting crowd and how they use the unit. It is quite an investment.
 
When I'm doing load development for pistol cartridges, I set it up and shoot by it no different than a rifle. I do put it on a tripod or bench for height purposes. Change the velocity in setup for "pistol" and go to shooting.

I hope this helps with the info you are looking for. If it doesn't, please be more specific.

Thanks, Dale
 
When I'm doing load development for pistol cartridges, I set it up and shoot by it no different than a rifle. I do put it on a tripod or bench for height purposes. Change the velocity in setup for "pistol" and go to shooting.

I hope this helps with the info you are looking for. If it doesn't, please be more specific.

Thanks, Dale
When I go from pistol to rifle I have to reset the distance parameters. I wish the parameters stayed in each category.
 
When I go from pistol to rifle I have to reset the distance parameters. I wish the parameters stayed in each category.
I am only interested in the MV for the ES over my 5 shot group so I don't adjust my distance parameter. Being a 'recreational' shooter who doesn't shoot matches and with no need to consider the PF or KE, I leave the bullet weight parameter set at whatever the factory default is.
 

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Shooting pistol, all I'm worried about is muzzle velocity, so the distance readings are ignored anyway (actually, that's largely true with rifle as well, since I only have access to 100 yds.)

I use the LR plate type bench stand, with a telescoping extension to get the unit to pistol height. Setting it toward the front of the pistol bench puts it right about even with the muzzle when shooting one-handed. I tried the recoil trigger, and found I got a lot of false triggers from the action while shooting 45. Have to do some more experimentation with that.

Extension:
 
I've been using one regularly for about six or so years. I bought an aftermarket base that has been quite useful, a LabRadar case, and their power pack unit. I haven't needed a "trigger" (not sure exactly what that is), nor a sighting alignment gizmo. All chronographs (I've had six in the last forty+ years) have quirks that take one or two sessions to get used to. The LabRadar is no different, but it works very well.
 
I've been using one regularly for about six or so years. I bought an aftermarket base that has been quite useful, a LabRadar case, and their power pack unit. I haven't needed a "trigger" (not sure exactly what that is), nor a sighting alignment gizmo. All chronographs (I've had six in the last forty+ years) have quirks that take one or two sessions to get used to. The LabRadar is no different, but it works very well.
Yes, forgot about the battery pack, that too is a must, if you haven't tried a trigger you should look at one, it really makes that much difference for $35
 
I've had generally good luck with my LabRadar, but on occasion it has given me difficulty. I messed with the sensitivity setting, distance setting (not downrange, but the distance from barrel to unit), channel setting and trigger vs. doppler. I learned a lot, but still the LabRadar gave me a headache sometimes.

So yesterday, a good friend pointed out the error in my ways. Duh! I've been sloppy in placing the LabRadar - behind the muzzle a bit and too low. My sloppiness means I didn't always get it wrong, but often enough to cause some irritation. From now on, I'll place it slightly forward of the muzzle with the center of the LabRadar at the same height as the muzzle.
 
I've had generally good luck with my LabRadar, but on occasion it has given me difficulty. I messed with the sensitivity setting, distance setting (not downrange, but the distance from barrel to unit), channel setting and trigger vs. doppler. I learned a lot, but still the LabRadar gave me a headache sometimes.

So yesterday, a good friend pointed out the error in my ways. Duh! I've been sloppy in placing the LabRadar - behind the muzzle a bit and too low. My sloppiness means I didn't always get it wrong, but often enough to cause some irritation. From now on, I'll place it slightly forward of the muzzle with the center of the LabRadar at the same height as the muzzle.
I've found the best postion for the unit has been 4"-5" left or right of the muzzle and well behind the muzzle - never measured this - but would guess 5" - 6" or a little more for handguns and a 12" or more for rifles (probably less for ARs because of the very short barrels). As long as the barrel is approximately centered on the side of the unit, these distances are not critical. I shoot cast bullet in handguns so the unit has to be well behind a revolver's muzzle and cylinder if you don't want an accumulation of carbon and/or bullet lube to coat you machine. I wouldn't place the unit ahead of the barrel.

Occasionally, with one rifle (a CZ .223 sporter with a barrel just under 24"), I'll fail to get a reading. Very slight movement of the rifle or unit will usually correct this. I don't know the reason this happens. There may have been other isolated instances, but this is the only one I recall.

I'm not much of a gadgeteer and don't fiddle with or have a use for many of the fine-tuning adjustments and options on the Lab Radar unit. Maybe that accounts for fewer owner induced problems.
 
If you shoot with a brake, you want the Labradar placed in front of the muzzle. The blast of a brake CAN hurt the unit when the blast is directed towards it. Unit can be offset by 18+" and still work. As far as being high or low from the muzzle, it doesn't matter either as long as the offset is kept to within that 18" length. I have multiple mounts, one being a quadpod that mounts the unit entirely on top of the rifle, basically right over the scope and it works just fine. I use the MKM bolt on sight and like it but it's not 100% needed. In my opinion an external battery pack is a necessity, I had one so I've never used batteries. An external trigger is great for 22LR especially when suppressed. I use a JKL trigger and don't forget that the trigger sensitivity settings can adjust the external trigger as well. I don't use the trigger for anything but rimfire really. They are a great addition to the many gadgets available, not perfect, but not many things are. I also have a Magnetospeed for certain occasions.

The type of mount to buy will vary on your shooting setup. I've got a bunch of different ways to mount mine. I would also recommend the Grayops acra mount. I got frustrated keeping the first mount I had tight.
 
The only after market accessory I bought is an Arkco base, only because I think it's better than the base offered by LabRadar. Unlike many others, I have no complaint with the crude aiming notch on the unit. It serves its purpose well, never a problem.
 
What does the trigger do that makes it worth having?
Well, I'm sure their website would explain it much better than me but you no longer have to have the labradar at the mussel of the gun, it no longer needs to be 6", 12" or 18" away, the height doesn't need to align perfectly, you no longer miss shots.
 
Well, I'm sure their website would explain it much better than me but you no longer have to have the labradar at the mussel of the gun, it no longer needs to be 6", 12" or 18" away, the height doesn't need to align perfectly, you no longer miss shots.
As explained in a previous post, I always use it well behind the muzzle and about 4" -5" to the side and approximately at muzzle height. Seldom get an unrecorded shot this way. External trigger not needed for my purposes.
 
Paul Philips runs 2 or more LR's, without triggers, when shooting a 416 with a brake. After I picked up a unit, I asked him about the best placement for consistent shot reading. He told me you want to be 8" from the bore and 8" forward of the muzzle when going on the side of the barrel. I have never missed a shot with this method.

I have since gone to a trigger, attached by velcro, for ease of accessing the unit while laying prone. I find I have to clear false 'triggering', at a speed way under normal, at times when the bolt is cycled while using the trigger.
 
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Thank you gentlemen all great information. Most of my searching for a LR has ended in "BACK ORDER" is this a dead end or am I not trying hard enough?
 
Paul Philips runs 2 or more LR's, without triggers, when shooting a 416 with a brake. I asked him after I picked a unit up the best placement for consistent shot reading. He told me you want to be 8" from the bore and 8" forward of the muzzle, when going on the side of the barrel. I have never missed a shot with this method.

I have since gone to a trigger, attached by velcro, for ease of accessing the unit while laying prone. I find I have to clear false 'triggering', at a speed way under normal, at times when the bolt is cycled.
Who is Paul Philips?
 

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