When I go from pistol to rifle I have to reset the distance parameters. I wish the parameters stayed in each category.When I'm doing load development for pistol cartridges, I set it up and shoot by it no different than a rifle. I do put it on a tripod or bench for height purposes. Change the velocity in setup for "pistol" and go to shooting.
I hope this helps with the info you are looking for. If it doesn't, please be more specific.
Thanks, Dale
I am only interested in the MV for the ES over my 5 shot group so I don't adjust my distance parameter. Being a 'recreational' shooter who doesn't shoot matches and with no need to consider the PF or KE, I leave the bullet weight parameter set at whatever the factory default is.When I go from pistol to rifle I have to reset the distance parameters. I wish the parameters stayed in each category.
Yes, forgot about the battery pack, that too is a must, if you haven't tried a trigger you should look at one, it really makes that much difference for $35I've been using one regularly for about six or so years. I bought an aftermarket base that has been quite useful, a LabRadar case, and their power pack unit. I haven't needed a "trigger" (not sure exactly what that is), nor a sighting alignment gizmo. All chronographs (I've had six in the last forty+ years) have quirks that take one or two sessions to get used to. The LabRadar is no different, but it works very well.
What does the trigger do that makes it worth having?Yes, forgot about the battery pack, that too is a must, if you haven't tried a trigger you should look at one, it really makes that much difference for $35
I've found the best postion for the unit has been 4"-5" left or right of the muzzle and well behind the muzzle - never measured this - but would guess 5" - 6" or a little more for handguns and a 12" or more for rifles (probably less for ARs because of the very short barrels). As long as the barrel is approximately centered on the side of the unit, these distances are not critical. I shoot cast bullet in handguns so the unit has to be well behind a revolver's muzzle and cylinder if you don't want an accumulation of carbon and/or bullet lube to coat you machine. I wouldn't place the unit ahead of the barrel.I've had generally good luck with my LabRadar, but on occasion it has given me difficulty. I messed with the sensitivity setting, distance setting (not downrange, but the distance from barrel to unit), channel setting and trigger vs. doppler. I learned a lot, but still the LabRadar gave me a headache sometimes.
So yesterday, a good friend pointed out the error in my ways. Duh! I've been sloppy in placing the LabRadar - behind the muzzle a bit and too low. My sloppiness means I didn't always get it wrong, but often enough to cause some irritation. From now on, I'll place it slightly forward of the muzzle with the center of the LabRadar at the same height as the muzzle.
Well, I'm sure their website would explain it much better than me but you no longer have to have the labradar at the mussel of the gun, it no longer needs to be 6", 12" or 18" away, the height doesn't need to align perfectly, you no longer miss shots.What does the trigger do that makes it worth having?
As explained in a previous post, I always use it well behind the muzzle and about 4" -5" to the side and approximately at muzzle height. Seldom get an unrecorded shot this way. External trigger not needed for my purposes.Well, I'm sure their website would explain it much better than me but you no longer have to have the labradar at the mussel of the gun, it no longer needs to be 6", 12" or 18" away, the height doesn't need to align perfectly, you no longer miss shots.
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Labradar Trigger Gen 2
This is the gen two trigger for the LabRadar chronograph. It will work on anything from a 22LR to a big bore rifles. The trigger works great with suppressors and crowded ranges. The new, removable …jklprecision.com
Who is Paul Philips?Paul Philips runs 2 or more LR's, without triggers, when shooting a 416 with a brake. I asked him after I picked a unit up the best placement for consistent shot reading. He told me you want to be 8" from the bore and 8" forward of the muzzle, when going on the side of the barrel. I have never missed a shot with this method.
I have since gone to a trigger, attached by velcro, for ease of accessing the unit while laying prone. I find I have to clear false 'triggering', at a speed way under normal, at times when the bolt is cycled.