Just received my Teslong bore scope and have a question

[kolar55]

View attachment 1157640

Carbon build up at the end of neck area?

 

[46and2]

Or just powder residue, which becomes a carbon ring.

 

[Ccrider]

Clean it real good and let’s see what it looks like.

 

[Shooter13]

JB bore paste and move on!

 

[avidflyer]

I just received my Teslong bore scope, and looked through a few of my barrels. I have attached a pic of the throat of my Kimber 270wsm. Is this the way it is supposed to look, or what is it telling me? Looks pretty rough all the way around the throat.

What are you using as a display / computer? wifi version?

 

[Texas10]

With one of your spent brass chambered, send the Teslong down the barrel and have a look at where the case mouth lies in the chamber. Then clean the chamber and throat area good and look again. Don't be afraid to use a bronze brush and some good bore cleaner.

 

[jackson1]

Been using bore scopes for many years. Recently bought the ridged version of the Teslong. It beats the heck out of my old Lyman. Carbon rings; my procedure for removing them, is to use a one caliber large bronze brush and some Isso. Have a short rod, chucked onto my hole shooter. I carefully measure and mark where my camber ends and a few seconds spinning my brush and they are gone. Could turn the rod by hand, but I am lazy.

 

[SS GO DEVIL]

Texas10 has it correct. You are developing a carbon ring beyond the end of the case neck in the neck area of the chamber. I use the KG1 carbon cleaner product and a bronze chamber brush which will clean it up quick. Fire cracking is normal. All barrels I’ve seen through a bore scope develop just like yours. Over time and rounds fired the firecracking will begin to creep toward muzzle (looks like alligator skin). Once accuracy falls off its time to set back past cracking or rebarrel depending on your level of accuracy requirements.

 

[Hammertime1]

Those are really kind of fast burning powders for 270wsm. Are you shooting 130gr bullets?

I am using 110 grain, barnes TTSX

 

[Hammertime1]

What are you using as a display / computer? wifi version?

using my computer, works pretty slick

 

[Hammertime1]

With one of your spent brass chambered, send the Teslong down the barrel and have a look at where the case mouth lies in the chamber. Then clean the chamber and throat area good and look again. Don't be afraid to use a bronze brush and some good bore cleaner.

I would try that but the rigid teslong is only 21" long

 

[46and2]

I am using 110 grain, barnes TTSX

3450 fps? Lol
That's good, you're actually supposed to run them fast.

 

[Texas10]

Been using bore scopes for many years. Recently bought the ridged version of the Teslong. It beats the heck out of my old Lyman. Carbon rings; my procedure for removing them, is to use a one caliber large bronze brush and some Isso. Have a short rod, chucked onto my hole shooter. I carefully measure and mark where my camber ends and a few seconds spinning my brush and they are gone. Could turn the rod by hand, but I am lazy.

I happen to agree with you on that procedure however, everytime I write what you just wrote, Forum Boss deletes the post because he believes it's bad to do that.

Personally, i have a hard time believing that a bronze brush is going to do anything harmful to barrel steel. I'd love to be proved wrong.

 

[Hammertime1]

3450 fps? Lol
That's good, you're actually supposed to run them fast.

you are probably pretty close with the 3450. It has done a nice job on a number of whitetails so far

 

[46and2]

you are probably pretty close with the 3450. It has done a nice job on a number of whitetails so far

I'm sure. I'm running 140 Bergers at 3400...honestly. Reloder 26 is astounding in this cartridge.

 

[jackson1]

Texas10, my personal rifle builder and contributor on this site also agrees with me. As a retired tool and die maker we have discussed machining techniques and procedures. If you have ever tried to polish an undersized bore or remove 0.001" from a shaft, you will develop an idea of how hard it is to remove metal. Normal wear (firing) causes many times the amount of wear introduced by carbon ring removal. Subjectively everyone's definition of "a little bit" can vary greatly.

 

[kvd]

If you have ever tried to polish an undersized bore or remove 0.001" from a shaft, you will develop an idea of how hard it is to remove metal.

Very True. Rubbing on a piece of steel or stainless steel with a cotton patch coated with a very mild abrasive will remove an infinitesimal amount of material.

The OP's photo looks very much like my 7 SAUM barrel after around 700 rounds and it is still shooting well.

 

[jackson1]

Got to give credit where credit is due. First learned of this technique: Removal of carbon rings from Tony Boyer's book "The Book of Rifle Accuracy", Chapter 17, pages 203 and 204. Granted Tony goes through more barrels in a year than I do in a large part of my life time, but I don't believe he would knowingly trash a hummer barrel. Don't except the conspiracy that he would take us down the wrong path to win more. I will never be a close competitor of his. Full discloser, never used carbon rings as an excuse for lack of accuracy. Always had plenty of others. Just an old man with to much cold dark winter time on his hands.