I anneal with the Annie induction annealer and I let all my cases get to a dark red color and they size and shoot fine.Red color is too hot. The cases are ruined.
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I anneal with the Annie induction annealer and I let all my cases get to a dark red color and they size and shoot fine.Red color is too hot. The cases are ruined.
I stop watching his video's when he started talking about powder kernels jumping off the pan and spread sheet around his charging area to prove it. Then he built some kind of box contraption to prevent them from jumping off the pan.After viewing the Primal Rights Video my comments are:
All of his comments are personal opinion and not backed by real facts. He is just repeating the bad info that has been around for a long time. Looks like he gets uneven heating from the way the torches are aligned. I use one torch and center the flame on the neck. I push the inner cooler blue flame well into the neck so it wraps around the neck. I center the flame on the middle of the neck. I heat til I see the beginning of orange/red or whatever you call the color. Red for about 1 sec. It takes about 9 seconds with my method to get red. I don’t have the hottest part off the flame on the neck. The inner flame is cooler but larger and more uniform in temp. You cannot anneal at 750F. You need to get up around 1050-1100F to flash anneal. It’s normal for neck edge first abt 10 thou to get orange before the bulk of the neck. I have done annealing studies at work and performed hardness testing. Also collected and posted actual very detailed annealing studies published by the University of Illinois Metallurgy Dept.
Comments I disagree with in the video:
- Flame color change means cooking material out. Remove before color change.
- If you see the flame change color it’s a little too hot.
- Remove from flame before flame color change and you get proper anneal.
- Red color is too hot. The cases are ruined.
Down to .003” with the majority only .002” apart. Doing good, keep working itthis is what I got this morning
The bump variation he is seeing is really pretty small. Why worry about it if it doesn't matter at the target. I think he said the rifle shoots 1" groups. If he wants to improve accuracy he needs to look at things besides a tiny variation in shoulder bump. I would try different bullets. See if some one will give you or sell a few to try. The bump variation he is seeing may be due to not getting hot enough to anneal. He is probably just stress relieving with no hardness change.Something strange is going on
One question, at the top of your press stroke, are you holding it there for a moment to allow brass to flow?
or in a rush and hitting the top quickly, then instantly retracting back down.
Try giving it a 3 second hold at the top of the stroke
other than that...maybe you're not actually bumping the shoulder, except only on those that have grown
In my experience, when sizing 1X fired brass, it's not unusual to have a variance like that as it's likely they're not fully fire formed when just one time around, especially when not annealed. After 2x firing, I find I much more often get more consistency. And like has been mentioned, a good amount of dwell time helps the brass stay in place (like I'll do 4-5 seconds, leaving the case fully into the sizing die while I lube the next case. . .with fingers).So went and prepped another 55 cases last night and this is what I got this morning after finding up prep
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There are probably 15 things that affect group size. I would put bump variation at the bottom of the list. Maybe the rifle is only good enough for 1". I would still say try different bullets. Trying different powders may help. I doubt seating depth and neck tension would make a noticeable difference.I think the real trick is where are the outliers. You have 51 pieces within .0025, pretty good.
Mark the four short ones and shoot them in a group. Find your four longest and shoot them in a group.