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Just getting into reloading, need some help 22-250!

Hello all! New around here and can't believe I have gone this long without discovering such an awesome forum! I am a rimfire nut but also love centerfire as well. I just got my hands on a barely shot winchester model 70 which was made in 1967-68 in 22-250 with a factory heavy barrel. I have done some accurizing work and she has improved but not to my liking. Since I scored this rifle for free I feel dumping money into it is totally acceptable. It will be getting a new thumbhole stock that will be pillar and glass bedded. It will be sent to krieger to get a new stainless barrel in 22-250 1-12 twist with the factory heavy barrel contour. Will also have the action/bolt face squared and trued along with a tubb 2000 firing pin/spring combo. I've already modded the trigger and it is perfect! My question is what's a good press and die combo to reload for max accuracy? I'm not looking for speed and don't mind being able to load one at a time or measuring my charges one at a time. As long as I'm getting max accuracy I'm happy. I'll also branch out and do the same for my 30-30 and 300 win mag. Any help is greatly appreciated and if you need anymore info from me just ask!

Edited to add a pic of the 22-250 and a target after I accurized it. Before it was doing 1.25" or larger groups with the same ammo!

 
I've achieved very good results with an RCBS single stage press and RCBS dies. This equipment is capable for producing very accurate reloads. Redding dies are also very good in my experience.

Some other things to considers to aid in producing accurate reloads:

1. A tool set up your full length sizing die to assure proper shoulder set back (.001 to .002"). There are a number of tools that can accomplish this function, i.e. Sinclair, Hornady, Wilson. This is critical for not only accuracy but for safety and functionality.

2. Tools to debur the flash hole and uniforming the primer pockets of your cases.

3. You'll need a case trimmer - recommend the Wilson with Sinclair upgrades and a chamfering tool to debur the necks of new cases and after trimming.

4. A tool to clean the primer pockets after depriming.
 
Didn't really say what your looking to spend? I have a lee 3 turret press. I like it cause you set your dies up and leave them instead of removing all the time. I'd look into a charge master from RCBS. Natchez has them on sale for like 275 with free shipping. A set of dies for each I like RCBS but also have Lyman and lee. Dont forget a reloading manual projectiles primers and powder. Be safe have fun
 
nastynatesfish said:
Didn't really say what your looking to spend? I have a lee 3 turret press. I like it cause you set your dies up and leave them instead of removing all the time. I'd look into a charge master from RCBS. Natchez has them on sale for like 275 with free shipping. A set of dies for each I like RCBS but also have Lyman and lee. Dont forget a reloading manual projectiles primers and powder. Be safe have fun

I'd like to stay at $750 or less if I can for the press, trimmer, deburring tools, scale, dies, or any other tools or items I may need. Powder, brass, bullets, and primers are a separate budget :).
 
Boy oh boy, that thing is beautiful 'as-is'. I'm sure you could get it to shoot without doing a complete make-over, but hey... if you got it for free, go for it I guess.

I like Lee neck sizing (collet) dies, and Redding competition seaters myself. I usually get the Lee Deluxe 3-die sets that give me the shell holder, a full length resizing capability and the collet die for cheap ($35), then spent $100+ on the seater w/mic.

I've done just fine with the RCBS Supreme kit. Rockchucker press, hand priming tool, 5-0-5 balance beam scale, etc. When I bought mine, they were only about $279. You might be able to find some deals right here before Christmas.

Good luck and enjoy. But I would focus on the reloading and just see what that thing can do before getting into anything that major on it. If you have the trigger worked out, you should be more than half of the way there already.
 
I helped a friend get started reloading recently. This are things I came up with for him.

RCBS Rock Chucker Supreme Master Reloading Kit
RCBS charge aster (I certainly know everyone will not agree to this)
Tin of Imperial Sizing wax
Set of Skip's die shims
Hornady headspace gauge kit
Set of reasonable quality dial calipers
Redding FL s-type dies
Die bushing(s)
Lapua brass (when available).
Shell holder
K&M primer tool (not needed but a good upgrade)
K&M flash hole tool

Less the dies you can probably get most of this for $750. Cheaper routes, yes! Kind of like optics, bite the bullet and get the good stuff.

Luck, Tim
 
sbranden said:
Boy oh boy, that thing is beautiful 'as-is'. I'm sure you could get it to shoot without doing a complete make-over, but hey... if you got it for free, go for it I guess.

I like Lee neck sizing (collet) dies, and Redding competition seaters myself. I usually get the Lee Deluxe 3-die sets that give me the shell holder, a full length resizing capability and the collet die for cheap ($35), then spent $100+ on the seater w/mic.

I've done just fine with the RCBS Supreme kit. Rockchucker press, hand priming tool, 5-0-5 balance beam scale, etc. When I bought mine, they were only about $279. You might be able to find some deals right here before Christmas.

Good luck and enjoy. But I would focus on the reloading and just see what that thing can do before getting into anything that major on it. If you have the trigger worked out, you should be more than half of the way there already.

She does shoot pretty darn good now and with some handloads I'm sure she could do better. I'll def see what I can squeeze out of the factory barrel first.

2 posters mention the rcbs chargemaster. Is this thing accurate enough for precision handloads? Seems like it will make it a lot quicker. I don't mind having to weigh each charge as total accuracy is the goal not quickness.
 
Very nice find... If your significant other wants to get you a Christmas gift you'll truly enjoy for that little project it's about 10lbs of H-380 and enough 210M's to fill a box that those mandarin oranges come in during the holidays lol...
 
don't forget to buy 1-4 reloading manuals and READ! i had no mentors when i started reloading 15 yrs ago and made a lot of mistakes...no KABOOMS thank god. this site is a GOLD MINE of reloading and shooting info and advice(some good and some not). there is a ton of info re the 22-250 here. you could spend hours going over how others do it...well worth the search. my 12 twist 22-250 one holes 64 gr bergers. good luck and enjoy!
 
How does this all look? Am I missing anything?

1. Lee ultimate rifle 4 die set 22-250 $47 (won't use the seater die)
2. Lee 4 hole classic turret press $110
3. Redding deburring tool $24
4. Redding 2400 case trimming lathe $154
5. Redding flash hole deburring tool 22 cal $26
6. Gempro 250 digital scale $115
7. LEE - LEE IMPROVED POWDER MEASURE KIT $10
8. Satern Powder Funnel 22 Caliber Aluminum and Brass $10
9. Redding Case Lube Kit $15
10. RCBS Case Neck Brush Small 22 to 25 Caliber 2x $7
11. MTM Slip-Top Ammo Box 22-250 20-Round Plastic 10x $24
12. MTM Deluxe Flip-Top Ammo Box with Handle 22-250 50-Round Plastic 2x $20
13. Redding competition bullet seater die $100
14. Lyman turbo 1200 case tumbler $85
15. Lyman Turbo Sonic 2500 Ultrasonic Case Cleaner $110
 
You don't need a tumbler and an ultrasonic cleaner. The ultrasonic will do it all. Also, you can buy the same ultrasonic unit as the Lyman from Harbor Freight for $59.00

Don't get a Lee turret press, get a Rockchucker press, it is more solid and I believe will give you straighter ammo.

Don't need a Case lube kit, just get some Imperial die wax and apply it by hand. Very little goes a long way.
 
You could buy the Forster die set with ultra micrometer seating die for about $100 and get the Lee collet die separate if you wanted that from Lee.
Also the Lee classic cast press or Redding Boss presses are good ones and less than rock chucker.
 
Hi dj and welcome to the site. Rifle looks very nice. the only suggestion I would make for you at this point is that you may want to take a very close look at the 22BR cartridge since you are willing to reload and are getting a new barrel. I shot the venerable 22 250 for about 30 years before I discovered the 22BR. I had to admit to myself that the 22BR was just simply a better, more inherently accurate, more efficient and more consistent cartridge from the get go. The velocities are nearly identical as well. The only advantage maybe to the 22 250 would be to feeding better out of a magazine. JMHO but if you do go with 22BR, you will not be sorry.
Best Wishes
 
RE: the Redding case trimmer. Take a good look at the Wilson case trimmer "kit" @ Midway. Trimmers using collets & pilots are problematic (Redding, Forster etc.) They don't hold your case parallel to centerline & cut case mouth out of square as a result. Buying the trimmer w/ the Wilson base facilitates using it in a bench vise or C-clamped to bench. Opting for the micrometer adjuster is your preference but, really un-necessary if you create a "master case" & use it to set your trim length for various cartridges. There are other problems w/ the collet & pilot trimmers I haven't mentioned. Caveat emptor ;)
 
DJ -

Howdy !

I've shot a bunch of .22-250, myself.

I did not see a " primer pocket uniformer " on your list. These are used to cut all primer pockets to the same depth.
Sinclair makes a good one.

Press:
A full-size press is fine, however... one can craft great handloads using simple hand presses... like the " Lee Hand Press ".
Since getting me some of these, my " Rockchucker " is pretty much used just for wildcatting brass. And.... the Hand Press enables
you to load at the range.

IF you have already fired your brass, might I recommend that you $$$ a Hornady combo " shoulder bump/bushing Neck size " die ?
Hornady dies are great, and don't cost a fortune. You'd use this die, until fired brass no longer chambers easily.

I might have missed it, but don't believe I saw a " bullet comparator " listed. The one made by Sinclair looks like a big hex nut,
with varying calibre holes on each flat face. You use the comparator along-with a verniere caliper, when adjusting or settting the bullet seating depth.

Powder measuring:
You certainly can weigh each individual charge. Still.... at some point down the road, you may want to $$$ for a top-flight powder measure. There's world record small groups being fired by guys using measure-thrown charges, so they work... no question.
I started out into precision rifle handloading, by $$$ benchrest-quality/grade handloading tools. These I still use, today.
When you are able.... " buy the best..... and cry once " !

Bore cleaning:
You'll never go wrong, purchasing a good-quality/design cleaning rod. And... you'll need a good " rod guide w/ solvent port ".

Loads:
I'll guess that your M-70 has a 1-14 twist.
I'm a fan of high" load density ". If shooting 55gr bullets, I strongly recommend you try VV160, and if you are not averse to shooting "ball" powder.... then I also suggest WW760 ( H414 same thing ). If powder temp sensitivity is of concern, IMR4350 would also be a viable powder option. I had good success w/ I4350 under .224" cal bullets as-light-as 52gr, and as heavy as 60gr; shot from a 24" 1-14 barrel. With all these powders, I suggest you give Magnum primers ( like Fed LR Magnum Match ) a good try out.
IMR 4007 is also a possibility, but I myself have not tried out any.



Best of luck in your endeavors.


With regards
357Mag
 

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