Just fired cast bullets and wanted to know

[slugflinger]

For cleaning the cylinder, I like to remove it and chuck it in a vise (with padded jaws), and use an oversize bronze brush, (.41 or .45 for .357 chambers), and chuck the brush into a hand drill.

Keep the brush wet with solvent (I use Ed's red) and run the drill/brush with a slight in and out movement in each chamber. It doesn't take long to get the chamber clean down to the metal.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

If the bullets fit right, you dont have to clean them, just like a .22.

 

[FNSafari]

If you get leading in the barrel, back in my LEO days, we used a Lewis Lead Remover, which uses a brass screen to remove lead deposits. Worked perfectly.

Amen to this suggestion. Can be bought at Brownells. As mentioned you may be trying to exceed the bullets alloy mix velocity wise. Use a harder bullet or a gas check bullet or back off the gas.

 

[JSH]

Alloy that is hard can be as much at fault as to soft. A hard bullet can skid rather than grab the rifling. Once again proper size and you can get by with a softer alloy and still run up to speed.

I am real interested in hearing from those that have first hand use with the Wipeout, Leadout.

I am really surprised that the “shoot a few jacketed rounds through it” hasn’t reared it’s ugly head. If you don’t think it raises pressure......also gave me the very WORST case of leading I ever had!

If one will have some patience, Kroil will give good results, they just aren’t fast.

Alex, surprises me that thought comes from you on cleaning.22RF.
Calfee’s input on lubes and cleaning is interesting. I found it to be true on center fires as well when you want to know where things go first shot cold bore.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

Alloy that is hard can be as much at fault as to soft. A hard bullet can skid rather than grab the rifling. Once again proper size and you can get by with a softer alloy and still run up to speed.

I am real interested in hearing from those that have first hand use with the Wipeout, Leadout.

I am really surprised that the “shoot a few jacketed rounds through it” hasn’t reared it’s ugly head. If you don’t think it raises pressure......also gave me the very WORST case of leading I ever had!

If one will have some patience, Kroil will give good results, they just aren’t fast.

Alex, surprises me that thought comes from you on cleaning.22RF.
Calfee’s input on lubes and cleaning is interesting. I found it to be true on center fires as well when you want to know where things go first shot cold bore.

Im not giving input on rimfire BR cleaning process. I have zero experience in that world. But you can shoot a rimfire for an awful lot of rounds without fouling build up, same goes for a handgun. Very small amounts of powder burned and no leading, the bores look polished. If your getting leading, thats not normal and can be corrected.

 

[cw308]

Thanks guys
All interesting information , I'm going to order the shooters No Lead cleaner , will give my input on how it works , I have used the used 45 brush in the cylinders works well . I just like to have the right stuff for each system.
Chris

 

[dantiff2]

copper chore boy strands wound around a worn brush, I quit buying brass screens for my lewis lead remover years ago, that and old #9 hoppies

All copper chore boy is all that's needed.

 

[243winxb]

Both copper Chore Boy & No-Lead work to remove leading.
M29 44 mag leaded badly from testing different diameter & softer alloys. (Dont beleive all you read online) Do you own testing.

Removed what i could with #9 after soaking for days*. Still lots of lead.
Got most of the leading out using both Chore Boy & No-Lead. Now there is a thin lead film left. Patches still comming out black using the No-Lead. More work ahead.

Keep brass away from No-Lead. Soaked this 45 acp case as a test. Only 10 minute soaked ate it bad.

 

[243winxb]

The Pro-Shot Chamber brushes help clean the bore faster. Oversize at .450" for this 44 Mag.

 

[cw308]

I'm ordering the No Lead to try , I do use the oversized bronze cleaning brushes . I also have the S&W 29 44mag 8 3/8 barrel , great shooter but only use copper , never tried cast , mine has that different lockup notch in the cylinder , was supposed to keep a better lockup .
Chris

 

[cw308]

I want to thank everyone for being so helpful . Hopefully I can return the favor.
PS: Never heard of this Core Boy stuff . Learn something new , Thanks.
Chris

 

[dc.fireman]

copper chore boy strands wound around a worn brush, I quit buying brass screens for my lewis lead remover years ago, that and old #9 hoppies

This is exactly what I use.

 

[cw308]

Guess I have to give it a try , everyone's talking about it . Thanks .
Chris

 

[Iowa Fox]

copper chore boy strands wound around a worn brush, I quit buying brass screens for my lewis lead remover years ago, that and old #9 hoppies

Its impossible to beat the copper chore boy wound on a brush. It will shave severe leading out quickly. Yep, good old Hoppes #9 to finish up. Size your bullets to the throat and leading issues go.

Leading is easy to remove.
Copper fouling pretty easy
Vitrified powder fouling is horrible

 

[cw308]

Iwoa Fox
Chore Boy is something I will try . I'm shooting hard cast bullets for the first time and now only from revolvers . Mainly from my carry revolvers S&W 2" and 3" models 36 and 65. Both have served me well and are in Excellent shape after many years. In the past mostly carried , now I'm shooting them every week 50 rounds.
Chris

 

[DirtySteve]

What is this "Cleaning" you of which you speak.? I used to shoot 10K of lead 9 mm bullets per year for several years. I would only clean my 1911 once a year. I shot a 125 cast bullet at 1000 fps. Never had leading issues or a malfunction of any type. Phil Kyle may chime in. He shot maybe a gazillion rounds from a revolver..

 

[K22]

Bore Tech Rim Fire blend with a bronze brush does a good job of removing lead from my center fire revolvers. I shoot hard cast lubed Oregon Trail Laser Cast Bullets at velocities 850 to 900 f/s. Bore Tech is non- toxic and odorless.

If you want an extremely accurate bullet in the 38 / 357 revolver that doesn't significantly lead the barrel, try the 148 HBWC swaged bullets with a fast burning book load value. I've shot as high as 500 rounds with this load without any leading that affected accuracy. I especially like the Speer 148 HBWC's.

 

[linebaugh]

Not to be a jerk but the key to cleaning up leading is to not get your gun leaded in the first place. If it is a continual problem I would very much encourage younto fix the problem and not create the problem.

I have shot hundreds of pounds of cast bullets in revolvers, some in pistols and a fair amount in rifles and even some paper patched rounds. I can't emphisize enough that you need to fit the bullet either to the bore or cylinder throats plus .001 over. Regardless of hard or soft alloy if you have any reasonable lube and a flat base (not bevel) fitted proper to your gun you will either have near no leading or no leading.

Without going into more detail just keep to the basics.

 

[243winxb]

Very little cleaning was needed years ago, 1970s, using the NRA 50/50 lube.

The orginal Alox added to the bees wax, worked great. Made nice lube stars on the muzzles.

Then they stopped making that Alox. The next Alox not great, but usable. Now that has been discontinued.

Trying Paraffin based now, but not liking it.

 

[cw308]

I ordered DEWC 148 grain .358 from RimRock , does the bullets come lubed or do you have to add lube yourself. Never shot cast so I hope I'm not sounding too lame . I have been reloading for 30 years , mostly rifle.
Chris