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I've got donuts, and I need advise.

Thanks for the replies. I am terrible at the interweb, so I will try to be more specific. I use lapua brass in a few rifles, 243 AI, 6.5//06, 6.5x47 etc. Two of these are tight necks, and one or two make donuts. I am looking for the best tools to trim, turn, and ream necks if I need to. I'm ok with buying one tools to do all three jobs, or buying three tools. I am interested in what works for you.
Thanks,
 
Neck turning is better then reaming. Neckturners- K&M, 21ST Century or PMA. I like the Wilson trimmer. Neckturning after firing is a little harder to do. You have to size all the way to shoulder junction. Need a full length size die without the expander in. Not a bushing one. Then you need to expand with a neck turning expander that matches your turner. Matt
 
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You can also use a Lee Collet die to size the neck all the way to the shoulder junction.
Yes that might work. I am not familiar with them. You just need the whole neck sized and small enough for the expanding mandrel to work. Good info Jlow. Matt
 
Yes that might work. I am not familiar with them. You just need the whole neck sized and small enough for the expanding mandrel to work. Good info Jlow. Matt
No sweat Matt, I use the LCD because it does not tend to undersize and over work the neck like a full length sizer die. It works well when I neck turned.
 
Best bet is start with new brass, a bushing full length die, a Wilson trimmer, and a K&M turner. ... Always full length size first, then trim, then neck turn, in that order.

I've always thought "full length size" meant with a solid full length die, not a bushing die. How do you avoid a bit of un-sized neck between the bottom of the bushing and the shoulder junction? I would think the neck turn cutter would make the wall too thin there. Not busting your chops, it's an honest question.
 
I've always thought "full length size" meant with a solid full length die, not a bushing die. How do you avoid a bit of un-sized neck between the bottom of the bushing and the shoulder junction? I would think the neck turn cutter would make the wall too thin there. Not busting your chops, it's an honest question.
There is a miniscule area in the shoulder that doesn't get touched by the neck bushing but it isn't anything significant. As mentioned before, the brass flows forward and actually thickens the shoulder/neck junction. Full length dies are available in different dimensions to restore brass to it's original dimensions or less. Full length sizing reduces body size, neck size, and relocates the shoulder for proper headspace.
 
I have chambers that will never create a donut, I formed new cases to wildcat chambers that require removing a donut before the case is fired. I have formed cases that had necks to close up at the shoulder/neck juncture when going from 30/06 to 22x6mm Remington wildcat improved, and then I used 25x06 cases; same thing.

My favorite do-nut remover is the RCBS reamer die. R. Lee made reamer dies and sold them in his Target Model reloading sets. The reamer die in Lee’s set differed from the RCBS reamer die. The die in the Lee set was basically a neck sizing die with an integral guide in the top of the reamer.

And then again, donuts without a cause and no two reloaders can agree. To most donuts just appear.


F. Guffey
 
I've always thought "full length size" meant with a solid full length die, not a bushing die. How do you avoid a bit of un-sized neck between the bottom of the bushing and the shoulder junction? I would think the neck turn cutter would make the wall too thin there. Not busting your chops, it's an honest question.
This is the reason why I never size brass for turning with bushing dies. The Redding bushing die leaves quite a bit unsized and turning neck sized this way is asking for trouble.
 
I bought some used lapua brass, now I need some help. I need options and opinions on what gear to buy. Should I buy a setup to trim, turn, and ream? Or do I buy three tools to handle the same task? I have a Lyman trimmer and RCBS neck turner now, but wouldn't mind upgrading if that's what I need to do. Any input on what works for you would be great.
Thanks,

I would buy a Wilson Ultimate Trimmer http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/case-trimming/case-trimmers/ultimate-trimmer-platform-kit-prod54116.aspx there are all kinds of attachments including a care
reamer http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloadi...eck-reamers/wilson-neck-reamer-prod33313.aspx

and you can add a case uniformer http://www.sinclairintl.com/reloading-equipment/case-preparation/case-mouth-chamfering/wilson-case-mouth-uniformer-30-degrees-prod34634.aspx and other precision accessories.

Joe
 
My buddy reamed his cases even though he has neck turning equipment. I told him not to and he called me saying he had problems. When I went up and took the neck micrometer and measured his cases, they were terrible. Not the .001 difference of neck turning but more like .01 and more. They also were not even all the way around. He ruined the whole set of match cases. Reaming is a hard thing to control. Matt
 
I used The Wilson inside neck reamer to cut out the donut. You would need a .239" for the 243AI and a .260" for the 6.5s. Size the brass and ream - this leaves a .004" neck tension.
 

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