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Is .284 Win. The Real Deal?

Thanks Dennis-really good info. I'm thinking 26" barrel with a Vais brake. That should tame it down a bit. ;)

And all the Tikka's are long action, and this one's bolt stop is for a 30-06, so that's covered too. I'll play around with different bullets to see what works best. I think I'll give the .284 a shot.
 
REAMER QUESTION---

My 'smith has a .284 reamer with specs:
.316 neck
.175 freebore

Will that be about right for 168 and 180 Bergers in a long action? Winchester brass.
 
yukonal said:
REAMER QUESTION---

My 'smith has a .284 reamer with specs:
.316 neck
.175 freebore

Will that be about right for 168 and 180 Bergers in a long action? Winchester brass.

If you go to this link, you will find a print of my 284 Shehane reamer. It needs another 0.020 inches of freebore for the 180 VLDs but is perfect for the 180 Hybrids seated long. The 168s should be fine. I shot the 162 Amax in barrels chambered with this reamer plus the 0.020 inches of freebore, no problem.
http://www.accurateshooter.com/cartridge-guides/7mm/#284win
 
Defiance makes a medium action that is perfect and suited for those type cartridges. If you are looking to do a build give them a call, they are super people to work with. These actions fill the bill for these type builds.
XTR said:
I think it comes down to your application. The 284 is kind of in between.

If you put it in a short action you have difficulty using long bullets seated long.
If you put it in a long action you've lost the advantage it gives of a short action and you could just as easily be running something with more capacity.

If you are hunting with it a 7-08 will do pretty much anything a 284 will do inside of 500 yards with 140gn to 150gn bullets. Yea, I know you van get a little more MV, but a deer cant tell the difference, and I can reliably hit to 600 with a 308 so a 7mm is just gravy. If you want to go hunt big stuff out west the 7mags will push the bigger (180) pills better.

I have really thought about building a 284, but in the end, for hunting, I stuck with my 7mmRM for big stuff and I'm building a 7-08 for everything else.

For target shooting, the 7RSAUM seems to run the heavies better, at least that's what the F-open guys are running.

edit, and if you want to go to 1200 yards or more then you want the bigger boiler in the 7RM
 
I had a Vias brake on that PacNor for a few months - it did a great job of making the A5 stock comfortable to shoot off the bench. But the amount of dust & debris it kicks up when shooting prone - pretty awesome way to get covered in dirt & pieces of grass when you're shooting into the wind. Replaced the Vias brake with an AAC SCAR-H suppressor, and now have the best of both worlds.
 
yukonal, if you decide to do the Shehane , I have a reamer your smith can use. Let me know if you want to borrow it..

JP
 
yukonal said:
REAMER QUESTION---

My 'smith has a .284 reamer with specs:
.316 neck
.175 freebore

Will that be about right for 168 and 180 Bergers in a long action? Winchester brass.

The reamer used on my 284,
.317 neck
.188 FB

Shoots the 168 vld's very well.
Using Winchester brass, lightly turning the necks for a loaded .313.

And oh ya', the 284 is the real deal!
 
jp said:
yukonal, if you decide to do the Shehane , I have a reamer your smith can use. Let me know if you want to borrow it..

JP

Thanks JP, I appreciate the offer.

I need to load up some dummy rounds, and take measurements. A .316 neck seems a little tight to me. Maybe not.
 
My 284 reamer was essentially a copy of Robert Whitely's, only ground for WW brass, and with a .318" neck instead of the .315" that Robert spec'd. Works very well for me w/o any neck turning. If I were to get serious about using a 284 for 1000yd BR, I'd consider going back to the .315" neck, and taking a light clean-up cut on case necks. But from what I've seen of groups at 600 & 1000 out of all three of my barrels, I wouldn't go to the trouble to neck turn without first checking neck thickness uniformity.
 
flatlander said:
My 284 reamer was essentially a copy of Robert Whitely's, only ground for WW brass, and with a .318" neck instead of the .315" that Robert spec'd. Works very well for me w/o any neck turning. If I were to get serious about using a 284 for 1000yd BR, I'd consider going back to the .315" neck, and taking a light clean-up cut on case necks. But from what I've seen of groups at 600 & 1000 out of all three of my barrels, I wouldn't go to the trouble to neck turn without first checking neck thickness uniformity.
flatlander,
What are your group sizes and how many shots per group are you getting at 1000 yards with your setup? thanks.
Wayne.
 
flatlander said:
My 284 reamer was essentially a copy of Robert Whitely's, only ground for WW brass, and with a .318" neck instead of the .315" that Robert spec'd. Works very well for me w/o any neck turning. But from what I've seen of groups at 600 & 1000 out of all three of my barrels, I wouldn't go to the trouble to neck turn without first checking neck thickness uniformity.

Well, I'll be using WW brass, and don't plan on turning necks. Can't spec a reamer until I get some dummy rounds loaded...unless one of you guys can tell me what the neck dia. of WW is, with a 180 Berger in it.
 
I hope the 284 is the real deal because my gunsmith is half way through my 284 Shehane build. Fingers crossed it's going to be a tack driver.
 
yukonal said:
This whole post just makes alot of sense. Thank you.
[br]
Tony usually does make sense. ;) We shot together on Team Kelbly at the Berger Southwest Nationals where my Shehane performed pretty well. It held excellent vertical and was still producing fine accuracy with over 1600 rounds on the barrel. That said: I was beaten by David Gosnell shooting his straight .284 in the Arizona Palma Championship. So, I don't think you would be giving up much. Either one would be an excellent choice in a long action but your criteria favor the standard .284.
 
For you guys not wanting to turn your Win brass you may want to rethink that.

I just finish 300 pieces for my new 284 build.

The necks weren't even close to being uniform. If you want a consistant seating pressure I would turn the necks with the Win brass.
Just my 2 cents from what I seen with the brass I got.

KT
 
I believe, at least with my .284, that Lapua brass is the way to go. I learned by trial and error, and help from this site.
1. If weight sorting, culled numbers of heavy/light brass are very low w/ Lapua.
2. Lapua gets more reloads per case, making the cost differential minimal at best
3. Winchester being seasonal, it hard to find same lots, and maybe hard to find at all.

I have shot both and never noticed an accuracy differences. I had a bolt click issue with the winchester brass after 6 firings, and that I think I know why. Remember, If you are wanting to neck up Lapua brass, a .284win reamer is not what you want. A .284 reamer cut for Lapua brass is what you want.
winchester brass is .003-.004" smaller at the head than the Lapua brass. I think that is why I only get 6 reloads on the win brass.

My reamer is for a turn neck, it was cut by Dave Kiff at PTG.
.313 neck
.220 freebore- recommended by Eric Cortina, and its perfect for staying out of neck/shoulder area with 162amax,168berger/180berger. (thanks Eric)

If you neck up Lapua brass, you will most likely develope a donut. This .220 freebore will give you the room to stay out of that area, plus maximizing case capacity.
 

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