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Installing a sling stud in Walnut

How much over screw shank size should the hole be? Shank being the center part of screw.
I dont want to split it, and I have that kind of luck!
Would it benefit me to use Acraglas or such as a locktite?
If it all goes wrong can I just epoxy the stud into a hole with acceptable results?
It is the buttstock located one. The upper has a brass threaded ferrule in it already.
Thanks
 
Get the "kit" with special drill bits/counterbores.
Cheap enough, and the best way to get a professional install (short of buying a jig, which is pricey).

https://www.brownells.com/shooting-...ools/swivel-base-drill-bit-set-prod26682.aspx

Keep in mind, there is a small, compressible flat washer at the base of the stud that is needed so that you can "clock" the swivel correctly. The diameter of the washer is larger than the stud- so a counterbore is needed to create a shallow recess for it to seat.

On stocks where the bottom of the butt has a lot of taper, the counterbore is also needed to create the "flat" so that it looks professionally done. Only way I know of to do this without using the specially designed bits is to clamp it in a mill or large drill press vise so that you can do the counterbore.

Be sure to hold your bit at 90 degrees so that you don't end up with a visibly crooked stud.
 
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Put some blue painters tape over the spot. Use an 1/8” bit to make your center. Drill a hole 1/16” larger than the shank. Wax the stud and screw it in after filling half the hole with epoxy. Wipe off any excess epoxy and pull the painters tape before the epoxy hardens. Got it?:)
The epoxy seals the grain, strengthens the wood around the stud and fills any gap.
 
If using the Swivel Drill Kit, I suggest pre-drilling the hole a bit undersized with a twist drill, then follow with the kit drill, and feed the counterbore slowly down.
Makes for a cleaner hole, less chance of splitting in my experience anyhow.
 

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