Inside Neck reamers

[majohnson]

I was polishing the insides of the neck with wet & dry sandpaper, removing the carbon. And then read an article on that the carbon works as a lube between the bullet and neck.

Now I started using motor mica, but a friend mentioned it might be harder then the barrel steel and damage barrels. Can anyone sort out the fact or fiction.

 

[XBBR Shooter]

I was polishing the insides of the neck with wet & dry sandpaper, removing the carbon. And then read an article on that the carbon works as a lube between the bullet and neck.

Now I started using motor mica, but a friend mentioned it might be harder then the barrel steel and damage barrels. Can anyone sort out the fact or fiction.

Motor mica is not harder than barrel steel, use all you want.
Some people like the idea of ash (carbon??) in the neck, and some don't.
I don't.

 

[Webster]

busmoba, in the big inning before the Internet eloaders dealt with do-nuts. Lee made a TARGET MODEL set of dies. The set included a neck sizing die with a reamer that centered the in the top of the die and case neck. The advantage to this system was outside neck support. There is no end to the number of reamers I have; when reaming the neck I must have neck support. Removing the do-nut was a second thought but the reamer had a cutter on the end of the reamer to prevent the relaoder from standing on the drill when pushing the reamer into the neck.


I have a .350" reamer; it will not remove stock from the inside of the neck unless I use a bushing on the outside of the neck. I have a RCBS reamer die. The die is a full length sizing die that returns the case to minimum length. Once the ram is raised the reamer is feed through a guide in the top of the die. With the Lee and RCBS system the reamer must be lubed. I am aware there are those that have problems with scratches, anytime something rotates with zero clearance the operator of the reamer must be operating in a clean environment.

http://www.midwayusa.com/product/252616/rcbs-neck-reamer-die-243-rock-chucker

F. Guffey

To much talk and self gratification. You need to tell us about your shootings skills and not how you live in your basement measuring things.

 

[M-61]

Quote:
"I have chambers that will never created a donut, I have chambers that I can guarantee a do-nut will form when fired; or I should say if it doesn't it will, by design.
F. Guffey[/QUOTE]"

Just curious fguffy......how does the chamber form a donut when fired?

 

[boltfluter]

I thank god every day for the ignore button.

Paul

www.boltfluting.com

 

[M-61]

Quote:
"I have chambers that will never created a donut, I have chambers that I can guarantee a do-nut will form when fired; or I should say if it doesn't it will, by design.
F. Guffey

"

Just curious fguffy......how does the chamber form a donut when fired?[/QUOTE]

Attn: fguffey-----I think this is a legitimate question concerning your post and would like a response please.

 

[calgarycanada]

What I have been doing is using a regular reamer that machinest use. You can purchase them in .001 steps to get the correct dimension needed.

Where do you buy them from? If you don't mind me asking

 

[majohnson]

http://www.westtool.com/products/CUTTING TOOLS/REAMERS.aspx

MS Direct and other machine shop supply sell them.

 

[fpskills]

I am looking at possibly inside neck reaming these dreaded donuts. primers are still great in the brass i have.

For those who have forster inside neck reamers, what is the diameter of the shaft that attaches to the end of the cutter?

My bullets are above the donut when seated, but i wanted to do an experiment for myself to see if this has any effect on bullet seating consistency despite my bullet being above this region. I have a trimmer already (an old one), so I wanted to see if this cutter would fit my existing trimmer.

I have used the Forster inside neck reamer on a whim and it worked surprisingly well. I thought there would be scratches all over but there wasn't. If I was really concerned I would run some steel wool on a brush and touch it up, but that's me.

 

[Nude nut]

Would anyone know of a neck reamer brand that would fit the 21st century neck turning lathe using their expander mandrels.

Cheers Trev.

 

[hoz53]

after the Wilson Neck reamer I take some 600grt psa sandpper, and use a mandrel and sand the inside of the neck, the bullets seat like glass neck thickness is +or- .0003 now if I only had a $550 barrel and a bat and a stock and a NF and a Seb and new eyes, why do I put myself through this

You guys must not have much to do if you read Guffeys posts and especially if you actually reply to them

 

[6MMsteve]

You guys must not have much to do if you read Guffeys posts and especially if you actually reply to them

tha Guffer

 

[fguffey]

"

Just curious fguffy......how does the chamber form a donut when fired?

Attn: fguffey-----I think this is a legitimate question concerning your post and would like a response please.[/QUOTE]

In the beginning reloaders on this forum had an infatuation with do-nuts. Most when forced to think lost it and became rude. I said there had to be something about do-nuts reloaders do not understand. And now they blame me. I form cases, I know I am going to create a donut before I start. When forming cases artifacts are left by the parent case and are called donuts by reloaders; again, there is something about donuts a reloader does not understand.

From the beginning I believe this is the first time anyone has ever asked 'HOW?' It is not so much the chamber but the design and then there is that part reloaders do not understand about donuts. I said I have chambers that will never create a donut in the case and I have chambers that will create donuts 'guaranteed'. And then there are those donuts that are created by bad habits. One shooter, writer technical type that is held in high esteem on this forum said about the cause of donuts; "I do not know what causes them".

Attn: fguffey-----I think this is a legitimate question concerning your post and would like a response please

I agree, the question is a good question and is legitimate and I do know how to appreciate 'would like a response PLEASE'. There are many reloadrs on this forum that believe they are the greatest thing that ever happened to reloading and I wonder; why can't they collectively put something together that was constructive instead of destructive.

F. Guffey

 

[Area51]

Brian, this thread got seriously mentally ill quickly, call me if you want to discuss inside neck reaming and TTL, trim to length, i have the correct set up.
Its all very straight forward, i like and use the Forster (correction, not Wilson) very effectively and successfully.
As you know i avoid these forums, i am very allergic to the mental illness virus that seems to be prevalent.
best regards,
Gary

 

[bsumoba]

Alright, so I posted this a few months ago and finally got around to trying this out for myself rather than simply reading stuff on the internet on how to mitigate this issue.

So, this is what my brass looked like before. It is very apparent that there are donuts.

I bought a 7mm inside neck reamer and tested the two most common methods on a few sacrificial pieces of 12+ times fired lapua brass (this is a 284 Shehane chambering). Bear in mind I use a bushing die as well. This brass will be tossed soon, FYI.

Method 1: I took a fired case and used a 7mm neck die to get the whole neck sized. I then used an expander mandrel and sized the brass back up to push all the material back to the outside. I then turned the neck as usual. That is the case on the left in the bottom first picture. My observation with this method are that it definitely got rid of the donut and actually took the rounded section off my shoulder/neck junction and now I have what looks like a normal looking case. I could not tell how much material was left in the shoulder/neck region and I will admit I have done this before and never had any of those cases split after 5+ firings.

Method 2: I took a fired case and simply used a Wilson 7mm inside neck reaming tool. This case is on the right. It is obvious where the material was taken out as indicated by the shiny sections in the neck and the majority of it was at the top of the neck and then at the base of the neck where the donut would reside. I also took a bullet and it dropped right into the case with no resistance (I have a .317 neck and my fired case neck OD measures at .316 on these cases). Perfect! I don't know if I necessarily like that it faced off a bit of the neck at the top.

Method #1 yields cases with nice sharp shoulder/neck junctions, but it is a much longer process. Method #2 is the easiest, but I will still be living with rounded off necks that will never be as sharp as a FL non-bushing die. So, I think I am going to take the best of both methods.

I bought a non-bushing FL sizing die from Whidden with my desired neck OD of .310. This will give me a couple options. I can turn my necks and use the die as is and will get my desired neck tension, or no-turn and then use an expander mandrel as a final sizing step to get the desired neck tension (some argue is a more consistent way of getting consistent neck ID, and I believe that). When/if a donut forms (and I wonder if I will see donuts this bad with a FL non-bushing die), I can then use an inside neck reamer, which will be faster than turning the OD of the necks. Donut solved, and rounded off shoulder junctions solved.

 

[Brians356]

I agree, that material removed quite a way down from the case mouth bothers me. Since you only wanted to remove the donut, you could have expanded the top half of the neck slightly, using the proper size mandrel, to avoid that. It seems maybe your neck die has enough taper in the neck that it squeezed it down near the mouth just enough to get caught by the reamer, notwithstanding that the neck walls of unturned cases taper in thickness towards the mouth. Out of curiosity, how thick was the neck wall in that area before and after the reaming (measured with a tubing mic)?

Also, while #1 (neck turning after expanding) seems to have worked, I'm curious if another nascent donut will not start forming again after several firings and sizings. My operating assumption is that brass springback after expanding allows some of the donut to spring back into the neck ID, before outside neck turning. If you have some pin gages, I would be curious if case #1 doesn't still have a slight donut remaining, enough to obstruct or resist a pin gage, but not readily visible. The outside of the case sure look nice, though.

PS

If you do have pin gages (if not, you should!) I would be interested in the neck taper of that neck die. And who made the die?
-

 

[Steve Ladino]

I am looking at possibly inside neck reaming these dreaded donuts. primers are still great in the brass i have.

For those who have forster inside neck reamers, what is the diameter of the shaft that attaches to the end of the cutter?

My bullets are above the donut when seated, but i wanted to do an experiment for myself to see if this has any effect on bullet seating consistency despite my bullet being above this region. I have a trimmer already (an old one), so I wanted to see if this cutter would fit my existing trimmer.

On some old 6 BR brass with donuts I have used a letter "C" drill bit (.242) on fired un resized cases with pretty good felt clean up. Rotate the case around the spinning drill bit with pressure on the side of the case body and neck.