Induction brass annealer redux

[mktacop]

I thought I'd post my progress so far on this project. Main power is run to both power supplies, radiator fan and two case fans are hooked up and functioning, induction board is mounted with the coil in place, and plumbing for the cooling system is all hooked up. Last night I did a function check of the plumbing system and it is all working as it should. I had one small leak at the bottom fitting of the reservoir that was easily corrected. I let the system run for about 20 minutes to make sure it was working as it should be.

My version of the annealer is based off what @KeeWay did and will be arduino controlled. I also do 3D design and printing, and the housing for the screen/meter/SD card reader has been designed and should be finished printing tonight. I will most likely work on the SSR wiring and the arduino circuitry this evening. I still have a ways to go, but it is coming together nicely.

 

[Gina1]

I thought I'd post my progress so far on this project. Main power is run to both power supplies, radiator fan and two case fans are hooked up and functioning, induction board is mounted with the coil in place, and plumbing for the cooling system is all hooked up. Last night I did a function check of the plumbing system and it is all working as it should. I had one small leak at the bottom fitting of the reservoir that was easily corrected. I let the system run for about 20 minutes to make sure it was working as it should be.

My version of the annealer is based off what @KeeWay did and will be arduino controlled. I also do 3D design and printing, and the housing for the screen/meter/SD card reader has been designed and should be finished printing tonight. I will most likely work on the SSR wiring and the arduino circuitry this evening. I still have a ways to go, but it is coming together nicely.

Curious... I see the main coolant tank/pump at the top of your build, but can't figure out what the dohicky is at the bottom is. Got tubing hooked up to it ??
When you get your 3D printing mounted, it would be nice to see a picture of it, all hooked up.
Keep up the good work

Gina

 

[mktacop]

Curious... I see the main coolant tank/pump at the top of your build, but can't figure out what the dohicky is at the bottom is. Got tubing hooked up to it ??
When you get your 3D printing mounted, it would be nice to see a picture of it, all hooked up.
Keep up the good work

Gina

The coolant tank is at the top, and it is just a tank. The "dohicky" at the bottom is the actual pump.
I'll be sure and post more pics as major parts are completed so that everyone can see them. Who knows, it may inspire someone else to do something new as well.

 

[MrNo]

well that
took a while, but finally got my code working and it all works how i wanted it to, still some tweeking to do, but it works.

//Chris new code for annealer
// v308

//
//-- Include library

#include <Wire.h>
#include <LiquidCrystal_I2C.h>

//
//-- Assign I/O pins

int irPin = 2; // ir sensor
int trapPin = 8; // trap door relay
int feedPin = 7;  // feed motor relay
int ssrPin = 6; // annealer relay

int count = 0;  // set case counter to 0
int sensorState = 0, lastState = 0;  // sets the ir to open
int Anneal_Step = 0; // program steps

LiquidCrystal_I2C lcd(0x27, 20, 4); // set the LCD address

//
//-- Set up

void setup() {

  lcd.begin (); // turns on screen

  delay(1000); //delay before the program starts

}

//
//-- Main Program

void loop() {

  //-- set the outputs

  pinMode(irPin, INPUT_PULLUP);
  pinMode(ssrPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(feedPin, OUTPUT);
  pinMode(trapPin, OUTPUT);

  feedOffRelay();
  trapOffRelay();
  ssrOffRelay();
 
  int timerValue = analogRead(A1); //-- rotary timer
  int buttonValue = analogRead(A0); //-- push start button

  sensorState = digitalRead(irPin); // assigns the ir

  float voltage = timerValue * (10.23 / 1023.0);
  int a = round(voltage * 10);
  float newVoltage = a / 10.0;

  lcd.setCursor(0, 0); lcd.print(" -Set anneal time- ");
  lcd.setCursor(0, 1); lcd.print("Timer: "); lcd.print(newVoltage, 1); lcd.print(" sec ");

  //-- Begin Anneal Sequence

  switch (Anneal_Step) {

    //-- Timer set up
    case (0):

      lcd.setCursor(0, 3); lcd.print(" ...PRESS START... ");
      if (buttonValue > 1010) {
        lcd.setCursor(0, 3); lcd.print("                   ");
        Anneal_Step = 1;

        break;
      }
      break;

    // -- Turn on feed motor until case is detected by IR
    case (1):

      feedOnRelay(); // turns on feed motor
      if (sensorState == LOW) {
        feedOffRelay();

        Anneal_Step = 2;

        break;
      }

      break;

    //-- Case detected
    case (2):

      if (sensorState == LOW) {
        int b = newVoltage * 1000;
        delay(500);
        lcd.setCursor(1, 3); lcd.print(" ..Case Detected.. ");
        delay(500);
        lcd.setCursor(0, 3); lcd.print(" ....ANNEALING....");

        ssrOnRelay();
        delay(b - 150); // 150 is correction number to get precise ON/OFF timing on pin
        ssrOffRelay();

        Anneal_Step = 3;
        break;
      }

      break;

    //-- Case counter
    case (3):

      lcd.setCursor(0, 3); lcd.print(" ......DONE......");
      lcd.setCursor(0, 2); lcd.print("Count: "); lcd.print(++count, 1); // case counter
      Anneal_Step++;

      break;

    //-- Trap door
    case (4):

      trapOnRelay(); // turns on trap door
      delay(2000);
      trapOffRelay(); //turns off relay
      lcd.setCursor(0, 3); lcd.print("                    ");
      delay(2000); // delay before loop starts
      lastState = sensorState;
      Anneal_Step = 1;

      break;

  }

}

void feedOnRelay() {
  digitalWrite(feedPin, LOW);
}

void feedOffRelay() {
  digitalWrite(feedPin, HIGH);
}

void trapOnRelay() {
  digitalWrite(trapPin, LOW);
}

void trapOffRelay() {
  digitalWrite(trapPin, HIGH);
}

void ssrOnRelay() {
  digitalWrite(ssrPin, HIGH);
}

void ssrOffRelay() {
  digitalWrite(ssrPin, LOW);
}


//
//-- End code
//

Can you post your wiring. Thanks!

 

[Gina1]

The coolant tank is at the top, and it is just a tank. The "dohicky" at the bottom is the actual pump.
I'll be sure and post more pics as major parts are completed so that everyone can see them. Who knows, it may inspire someone else to do something new as well.

OK... threw me for a loop. look forward to seeing finished project. Always fun/nice to see the different builds.
gina

 

[GrocMax]

Curious... I see the main coolant tank/pump at the top of your build, but can't figure out what the dohicky is at the bottom is. Got tubing hooked up to it ??
When you get your 3D printing mounted, it would be nice to see a picture of it, all hooked up.
Keep up the good work

Gina

Looks like a good centrifugal fluid pump to me.

 

[kit-808]

Can you post your wiring. Thanks!

Will do once I get it sorted

 

[Brucey Boy]

So here is an interesting one for all of you electronics gurus. I replaced my ZVS induction heater board a while ago after 'cooking' the old one. (Too many cases too fast.) The old one operated at 42v and the new one is at 30v - same 48v power supply. The old one was on 12.7A and 539W. The new one is on 10A and 300W. The cases are still annealing in almost identical times. I did replace the power cables from the power supply to the ZVS board with some heavy duty cables. This is not a problem for me as I am still annealing happily at the same rate. Just curious as to WHY???

 

[KeeWay]

sorry guys it was pointed out that i had a ground connected wrong in the fritzing diagram so here is the updated diagram which now includes the panel meter and shunt. the wrong ground connection was between the 48v power supply and Arduino, there actually is no connection when i looked at the physical connections .

 

[Carsonco]

Question for the group. I set my annealer up to cycle on~5 sec, drop case, dwell 5seconds, cycle on.... If I use templac to dial in my anneal time and then run >30 cases I notice my amp draw starts to decrease over time, and if I drop a templac painted case in after 30 or so cases it's not annealed the same as what I set it up for....

I assume it's a heat issue on the board? I added fans to the front and back of the board and they help but not much. Any ideas?

Running 600w 48v psu with the ZVS 1000W board. Pulling around 12amps during cycle with everything cool.
Edit: the coil is water cooled and using a SSR to switch that's driven by an Arduino

 

[Gina1]

Question for the group. I set my annealer up to cycle on~5 sec, drop case, dwell 5seconds, cycle on.... If I use templac to dial in my anneal time and then run >30 cases I notice my amp draw starts to decrease over time, and if I drop a templac painted case in after 30 or so cases it's not annealed the same as what I set it up for....

I assume it's a heat issue on the board? I added fans to the front and back of the board and they help but not much. Any ideas?

Running 600w 48v psu with the ZVS 1000W board. Pulling around 12amps during cycle with everything cool.
Edit: the coil is water cooled and using a SSR to switch that's driven by an Arduino

Just off the top of my mind.... I would hook a volt meter (or multi-meter) to the input power connections of the ZVS board. If the voltage stays the same for every case, then the problem could be the ZVS board. If the voltage is changing, over a long run of annealing, then it could be the SSR. Going further back check out your power supply the same way. Also check for a loose connection from the power supply, SSR, ZVS.
Hope this helps
Gina

 

[Carsonco]

Thanks Gina, I'll check/monitor the voltage at the board. And recheck all the connections.

 

[mktacop]

Here are a couple of update photos to show the progress I've made on my annealer build. I designed the mount for the screen, SD card reader, and the volt/ammeter, and then 3D printed it. I also designed and 3D printed the shelf below the coil. The biggest things I have remaining are to wire up the motor, optical sensor, and solenoid to the arduino, and mount the arduino electronics inside the enclosure. Barring any hang-ups, I should be starting annealing tests this weekend. Once I have this complete, the propane torch annealer I built back in January will be retired.

 

[mktacop]

Success! After a few minor set-backs, I was finally able to get a fully operational systems test last night. Many, many thanks to @KeeWay for his help to get the Arduino electronics working properly. I still have to do some wire management, get the Arduino mounted, and close it all up. Once that is done (or maybe in the process), I can start tweaking the induction times using Tempilaq to get everything where it needs to be.

I'm using a 1800W 40A induction module with a 3mm ID coil wrapped around 3/4 PVC. The induction module is powered by a 48V 20A power supply. My initial tests on 6.5 Creedmoor brass showed that the system is pulling about 15.5A on a 3.1 second anneal cycle.
I haven't used any Tempilaq yet to see if I'm anywhere close to the correct timing, but I know for a fact that 4.5 seconds will make the neck and shoulder of the case glow cherry red ....that case is definitely trashed.

What adjustments should I make to bring the Amps down? I would think that I need to do so since the Power supply is only rated at 20A and I'm pulling approximately 75% of that.

The pic is a still captured from a video showing what the system is doing at the peak of a cycle. I'll try to upload a video later.

 

[ottsm]

If you want to lower your amps try adjusting your voltage down. Most power supply units have a voltage adjustment pot that can adjust the voltage plus or minus a certain percentage while other PS units have the ability to adjust over the entire range and may include a current limit adjustment as well.

 

[dskogman]

Make your coil bigger if you can’t adjust the power supply enough

 

[Gina1]

Or lower your case in the coil, less case in the coil, lower amps.

 

[mktacop]

Or lower your case in the coil, less case in the coil, lower amps.

Thanks Gina!

 

[mktacop]

I'm done with assembly and set-up. The annealer works just like it should and I'm very happy with it overall. There are things I could have done better, but hindsight is 20/20. Thanks to everyone who has contributed to this thread!

Now, to work on an auto case feeder.....

 

[Gina1]

Very nice !!
Interesting that you put your display off to the right side. Lot of innovation there.