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indicating a barrel for chambering ?

Paul, I certainly wouldn't chuck my reamer in the tailstock. Have you ever indicated a tailstock with ram both extended and retracted, then slide it to a different position and indicate it again? It is scary. Yes, it would act like a boring bar. His chamber shouldn't run out from its own axis, but probably runout to the bore axis.
 
Butch,

I totally agree. Tailstocks can sometimes have a mind of their own. All very good points that you have made. You definitely have your ducks in a row and have no doubt chambered some great shooting barrels. Carry on. Lol. :D;)

Regards, Paul

www.boltfluting.com
 
My question is why would someone that the has tail stock In question use it for chambering . The one my gun smith use it tightens with a ft pound wrench . It also is dead on when it is tight . Larry
 
I kind of subscribe to the idea that where the pilot goes the reamer will follow and therefore use a floating reamer holder. Like I stated before, I have not checked to see if the chamber is centered and not oval but will next time. New or sized brass is always a tight fit. Please understand that I'm not chambering competition barrels, only trying to make exceptionally accurate hunting/target barrels and rifles.
 
'Somone of your "expertise" shouldn't have to ask what could cause run-out"

Sure sounds like the kind of question my dad and grandfather used to ask me to see if I really understood my set ups. They knew the answer and where probing my understanding of what was going on and used the errors in my answers as a teaching tool.

Just a thought.
 
'Somone of your "expertise" shouldn't have to ask what could cause run-out"

Sure sounds like the kind of question my dad and grandfather used to ask me to see if I really understood my set ups. They knew the answer and where probing my understanding of what was going on and used the errors in my answers as a teaching tool.

Just a thought.


With his last sentence I didn't take it that way, but I guess I misunderstood.

Maybe he could enlighten us all?
 
Last edited:
With his last sentence I didn't take it that way, but I guess I misunderstood.
I have chambered a barrel or 3. That in itself does not qualify a person to be the greatest barrel smith. I worked a few year in a jobshop doing mold making and one off parts for the defense industry. Does this make me an expert, No. I was able to learn good machining knowledge and to think.
Now, back to my question, do you have an answer. To be more clear, run out to the bore and run out in the chamber. How can each of the happen. I have heard run out used on all the forums, but run out to what hasn't been stated.
I hope that clarifies it for you.
 
I have chambered a barrel or 3. That in itself does not qualify a person to be the greatest barrel smith. I worked a few year in a jobshop doing mold making and one off parts for the defense industry. Does this make me an expert, No. I was able to learn good machining knowledge and to think.
Now, back to my question, do you have an answer. To be more clear, run out to the bore and run out in the chamber. How can each of the happen. I have heard run out used on all the forums, but run out to what hasn't been stated.
I hope that clarifies it for you.


Well actually I was hoping to see what I could learn from you.
 
I was wondering too when you use deltronic pins do you use one in the muzzle and breach end and dial both ends or just one in the breech end and dial it in?


I have chambered several different ways before settling on my present method, between centers-steady rest, and different ways in the headstock. Yes, I've tried the Gordy method and didn't cotton to it. Everybody talks about a curved or banana shaped bore. I don't buy that. I think they are more like a very light spiral. None are the same. I am like most and want the bullet to hit the center of the bore when the trigger is pulled. A quick run through. I do my initial set up with Deltronic pins. I have them in sets of 25 ea in .0001 increments for each caliber that I chamber. My center size or nominal pin is the boresize that the barrelmaker tries to hit. Let's say .237 for a 6mm. My set starts at .2358-.2382. A .237 barrel most likely wouldn't be a .237. I use 2 spiders with copper tips. No chucks. I indicate each end. I cut the tenon and thread. I predrill and then reach in with My Mitutoyo 513-504 indicator. I check the land and grooves at the throat area. You can also check the land height. I have an Interapid with a long probe, but I like the Mitutoyo as it has a thin body and will enter a PPC or BR chamber. It has a short probe and doesn't jump around. After I'm satisfied that the throat is indicated in I taper bore to about .020 short of the shoulder. I use a short solid carbide boring bar. When I run my chambering reamer that is pushed and not in a floating holder. I use a loose bush as I DO NOT want the end of the reamer following an unstraight bore. I want the reamer to follow my taper reamed hole. I now have a chamber with the bullet coaxial to the throat. Neither you nor I have any control over what the bore does after this point. Running a long rod through a crooked bore will not straighten it, but we really don't care. On the muzzle end the crown needs to be perpendicular to the bore.
All of this said, if you can't shoot or can't do precision reloading, you are just going to have fun and shoot poor groups.
 
on a flat bolt face or a coned bolt face the case sticks out for extractor to grab case soooo radius is in front of extractor groove any radius on end of chamber is a bad deal cases swell and are very difficult to extract
 
I have chambered several different ways before settling on my present method, between centers-steady rest, and different ways in the headstock. Yes, I've tried the Gordy method and didn't cotton to it. Everybody talks about a curved or banana shaped bore. I don't buy that. I think they are more like a very light spiral. None are the same. I am like most and want the bullet to hit the center of the bore when the trigger is pulled. A quick run through. I do my initial set up with Deltronic pins. I have them in sets of 25 ea in .0001 increments for each caliber that I chamber. My center size or nominal pin is the boresize that the barrelmaker tries to hit. Let's say .237 for a 6mm. My set starts at .2358-.2382. A .237 barrel most likely wouldn't be a .237. I use 2 spiders with copper tips. No chucks. I indicate each end. I cut the tenon and thread. I predrill and then reach in with My Mitutoyo 513-504 indicator. I check the land and grooves at the throat area. You can also check the land height. I have an Interapid with a long probe, but I like the Mitutoyo as it has a thin body and will enter a PPC or BR chamber. It has a short probe and doesn't jump around. After I'm satisfied that the throat is indicated in I taper bore to about .020 short of the shoulder. I use a short solid carbide boring bar. When I run my chambering reamer that is pushed and not in a floating holder. I use a loose bush as I DO NOT want the end of the reamer following an unstraight bore. I want the reamer to follow my taper reamed hole. I now have a chamber with the bullet coaxial to the throat. Neither you nor I have any control over what the bore does after this point. Running a long rod through a crooked bore will not straighten it, but we really don't care. On the muzzle end the crown needs to be perpendicular to the bore.
All of this said, if you can't shoot or can't do precision reloading, you are just going to have fun and shoot poor groups.
I to want to Thank You also for this post Butch--I've learned a little from it. Changed some ball joints on my truck today and it kicked my ass. I don't have air in my shop, so it was more difficult. I'm getting old.
 
on a flat bolt face or a coned bolt face the case sticks out for extractor to grab case soooo radius is in front of extractor groove any radius on end of chamber is a bad deal cases swell and are very difficult to extract
Thanks George I've also learned some from your posts in this thread.
 

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