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Imperial Dry Lube

Does anyone favor the use of dry lube versus wax, lanolin/IPA concoctions, or other off-the-shelf case lube?

It seems like it would be easy to swab the inside of the neck and to wipe them down with a rag or to just put them in a tumbler for a few minutes to get rid of it.

And if you decided to move to dry lube, would that mean all my dies would need to get a thorough cleaning to get rid of any residual lube that might be left on the dies?
 
I poke the boat tail/bearing surface in the dry lube, blow off the excess and seat the pill, Bob's your uncle. Your fingertips will turn blackish but it washes off.
 
370bc said:
I only use the Imperial Drive neck lube for sizing the neck only.

+1 on that. I use neck bushings, Redding dies and dry lube when using bushings. I use wax on all other sizing.
 
I use graphite http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00I5DYQG8/ref=s9_simh_gw_p469_d0_i2?pf_rd_m=ATVPDKIKX0DER&pf_rd_s=desktop-1&pf_rd_r=13STD5WFRP9S1NWW9XP2&pf_rd_t=36701&pf_rd_p=2079475242&pf_rd_i=desktop inside the neck for F/L resizing with the sizer ball.

Graphite has been a standard component in propellant kernel coatings for over a century, chosen primarily to allow static charge buildup during transit to be safely dissipated.

I use it because I consider it to be the least incompatible lubricant with the propellant. By coincidence, it is also an excellent dry lubricant, and I sometimes 'salt' my propellant with graphite to increase bore lubricity.

This is why I do not employ Moly. There is already one dry lubricant present in the bore, graphite; which comprises a high percentage of 'carbon' fouling. I have no intentions of complicating the dry lube situation in the bore by introducing Moly too.

Perhaps now we have some insight as to why bores need to be 'fouled' after cleaning. I sometimes prep my freshly cleaned bore with a patch moistened with graphite and alcohol; same for case neck interiors with a Q-Tip before resizing. The alcohol evaporates, leaving a nice light graphite coating. Does no harm and may even help.

Greg
 
JarheadNY said:
Perhaps now we have some insight as to why bores need to be 'fouled' after cleaning. I sometimes prep my freshly cleaned bore with a patch moistened with graphite and alcohol;

Liquid Lock Eze is great for this too.


As for the dry lube, I use it for neck sizing and the follow-up with the expander mandrel. No more "squeaks".
 

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