"If lube wasn’t cleaned from case it will cause sever case damage"

[Al Lu]

Not to derail the 6-GT post. This was mentioned.Can someone expound on the quote? I am trying out Lanolin/ Alcohol lube mix. I use Corn Cob media to clean brass cases but findings that media sticks inside the necks (6-BR cases)? Not enough time tumble( 1 hour)? Thanks.

 

[XTR]

First you have to understand what happens in the chamber.

The pin hits the case and if there is any gap between the shoulder and the front of the chamber it drives it forward, then the primer ignites, then the powder ignites.

When the powder ignites it expands the case and the brass is pressed outward in all directions. The case grips against the sides of the chamber, and if there was any forward movement of the case the web of the case stretches till the base of the case hits the boltface.

If there is lube on the case it prevents the case from gripping the sides of the chamber. This increases the thrust against the boltface, and can allow the brass to expand more resulting in a heavy bolt lift. (note: Wet cases will do the same thing.)

The result is higher load on the bolt lugs than normal for a given load, and possibly heavy bolt lift. The brass base to datum at the shoulder will likely be longer that for a clean case.

 

[NorCalMikie]

And, as the primer fires and ignites the powder, if the head space is enough,
(case too short for the chamber) the primer will start to back out of the pocket, get pushed back in from the firing pin and can give you a false reading making you think you've got a high pressure thing going on.

If the tumbling media is sticking in the case necks, it's wet. Meaning, the Lanolin hasn't been cleaned out of the case.
What I do is, go after the insides of the cases with brake parts cleaner. That will get rid if the lanolin and I think better than alcohol.
Also, longer tumbling time would probably help clean out the lube mixture. I dry tumble in cob with nothing else added. I also use LOTS of Q Tips in the necks to make sure they're dry. Nothing worse than dropping powder and having it build up in the necks. Makes a crunchy sound when trying to seat bullets.

 

[ToddKS]

Al,

I also use the Lanolin lube. When I used to remove it via dry tumbling I would run for at least 3 hours, usually overnight. As you are experiencing 1 hour is not enough.

It did not take long for me to decide that corn media was not the best way to remove the Lanolin oil. Wash the brass in Simple Green and hot water. This can be done by hand, you do not have to wet tumble, just work the brass around in the solution for a couple minutes, rinse and dry. Then you can tumble in your corn media with no issues.

I wet tumble using Southern Shine chip media, but I always prewash the brass as described above before I put the brass in the wet tumbler. I get a better result much faster by getting the Lanolin oil off first. My run time on the wet tumbler is only 15 minutes.

 

[Jdne5b]

Dont get lube inside the neck, then all you need to do is wipe the outside off with brake cleaner. Or spray a towel down with brake cleaner and shake the cases.

 

[jepp2]

I am trying out Lanolin/ Alcohol lube mix. I use Corn Cob media to clean brass cases but findings that media sticks inside the necks (6-BR cases)? Not enough time tumble( 1 hour)?

What ratio did you use?

I use 12-1, allow spray to hit inside the case neck, and 1 hour in corncob (20-40 sieve size) media tumbling removes it all.

 

[Al Lu]

8-1 and yes, I wants spray to hit inside case neck, because I use mandrel. Thinking that lack of experience and maybe overdo the spray? If I may ask "corncob (20-40 sieve size) media" where to get? Thks,

 

[NorCalMikie]

Never tried it myself but have heard cob and walnut can be picked up and used as cage litter for lizards at pet stores. Don't remember where I got mine but I got enough to last a couple of lifetimes. Don't think you'll need to worry about size. It'll clean no matter what size.

 

[azshooter]

Google abrasives for sand blasting

 

[Texas10]

The reason I use a bushing die for my 6br is so that I don't have to put lube inside the neck. I use lanolin based case lube but put it on the base only. Size, wipe clean with a rag, load.

 

[Fast14riot]

Never tried it myself but have heard cob and walnut can be picked up and used as cage litter for lizards at pet stores. Don't remember where I got mine but I got enough to last a couple of lifetimes. Don't think you'll need to worry about size. It'll clean no matter what size.

I managed a pet store for a number of years, the stuff for reptiles is expensive compared to the stuff for bird cages. I always knew the reloader coming in as they either asked if I could split a bag for them, or simply said they didnt have a bird, lol! I used it for years, bought a 25lb bag and split it with 3 other people, I think I paid like $12.

 

[Stepsjframe]

I doubt there'll be any powder contamination with a bit of lube inside the case neck. Arsenal ammo has an asphaltum sealer (much like road tar) between bullet and case neck and that's never harmed any powder.

If you run fired cases over a bore brush spinning in an electric drill, or even hand held twisted or back and forth, most of the residue will be cleaned out. Those necks will be smoother and let expander balls slide through much easier.

Otherwise, wash your sized cases in laquer thinner so the lube's dissolved, then let them dry before putting primer, powder and bullet in them.

Personally, I don't use expander balls as they tend to bend case necks. Instead, I deprime fired cases before cleaning and sizing them. I have full length sizing dies with their neck's honed out to a couple thousandths smaller than a loaded round's neck diameter. Case necks are much straighter on the case and the brass is worked half as much; cases last longer and shoot bullets into the bore more precisely.