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I was sent a Farley Action that had the lugs shear off of the bolt body.

jackieschmidt

Gold $$ Contributor
A fellow contributor to our Forum sent me his early Farley Action that had the lugs completely sheared away. He wanted me to anylize it.

As many might know, this is not the first instance of this happening. About twenty years ago the exact same thing happened, and from what I can gather, there have been a couple of more.

When this happened way back when, Farley issued a recall. It seems the heat treating was off, by a lot. He offered to re draw the temper on any bolts found to be too hard.

These bolts were made from S-7 Tool Steel. S-7 will make a very strong bolt with good wear ability except for one major problem. To achieve the desired combination of Tensile and Yield strength combined with a high ductility, the heat treating protocol must be followed at a level of expertise that was not followed.

I took my three bolts, three Gene Bukys had, and two that Pat Byrne had over to Lone Star Heat Treating to have them all tested for RC Hardness.

They were all over the scale. One was as soft as 43 RC, and one clear up to 51 RC. The others averaged out somewhere in between at around 46.

My favorite bolt was the 51.iI had it magnafluxed and there were no cracks. After reading up on everything I could find concerning S-7, I decided to leave it alone. Since then, I have put literally thousands of rounds through it.

Anyway, here is the bolt and action parts Bill sent me. Aside from a few small gouge marks, I determined the action body its self was not hurt.

How ever you can see in the pictures that the lugs completely “cracked” off of the bolt body. I say cracked, because there is no evidence of a ragged break as being torn off. And as you can see, there is also a crack progressing around the circular part of the bolt head.

I took the lug Bill sent me over to a Lab we use to have it tested for RC hardness. From the scratch test I have done, I will bet it tops 53 RC.

Since getting a new bolt made by someone else did not seem practical. I offered to buy the remaining good parts and see what I can do with it. Bill agrred, so I have a project.

What I plan on doing is to cut a sufficient amount of length off of the head end of the bolt and see about attaching a bolt head much like a Savage has. Pacific Tool sells their version of the removable bolt head, I will try to get the dimensions to see if can be modified to fit the Farley raceways.

If not, I suppose I could make one.

After I attach the bolt head in the correct position, I can reattach the bolt handle to get the best primary extraction and timing.

This afternoon, I trued the action body up in my lathe and just slightly faced the lug abutments, (about .001 inch), then took a light chase on the threads and took A slight face cut on the action face. Everything looked really straight, but I figured I since I was making sure the lug abutments were perfect, go on ahead and chase the threads and action face so everything is trued on the same set up.

Anyway, I need to figure out exactly how I will do the bolt head. I think Bat makes an action now with a removable bolt head, maybe that’s an optio,

here are some pictures of the action truing. I machined the truing mandrel out of a piece of StressProof.IMG_2676.jpegIMG_2671.jpegIMG_2672.jpegIMG_2677.jpegIMG_2678.jpegimage.jpg
 
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Ooowwww that's nasty! Did the bolt fly out the back of the action or did it come back far enough to vent pressure and take load on the handle?

Would a rem 700 bolt from PTG come close to fitting? Some of the actions geared toward PRS have interchangeable bolt heads but you'd need enough diameter in the bolt body to allow for the retaining pin
 
When I needed a bolt for a 40X action I had, I made the bolt body from C1045 shafting. I used 1 1/2 inch shaft so I could make the bolt handle root and extraction cam integral to the bolt body. I then made the bolt head of EN30B. The C1045 was good because it was easy to selectively harden the cocking cam. WH
 
Another reason for high rings.
I knew a guy who had the side of his head injured when a bolt came out of a Klinegunther. It used a separate bolt head which for some reason didn't rotate with the bolt body.
 
I can't remember if it was the Kleingunther (sp?) or the Voere Titan which had the bolt locking into an insert (stellite?). This insert was a slip fit into the mild steel receiver and was kept from rotating by a single tiny set screw, which engaged a shallow groove. This was a design which could easily have come from the fertile mind of a famous Walt Disney rodent. I could see this insert turning with the bolt, if the screw was loose, leaving it unlocked or barely locked. WH
 
I can't remember if it was the Kleingunther (sp?) or the Voere Titan which had the bolt locking into an insert (stellite?). This insert was a slip fit into the mild steel receiver and was kept from rotating by a single tiny set screw, which engaged a shallow groove. This was a design which could easily have come from the fertile mind of a famous Walt Disney rodent. I could see this insert turning with the bolt, if the screw was loose, leaving it unlocked or barely locked. WH
I could be wrong, but I don't think the Voere Titan is designed that way. I have one and to my non trained eye it looks pretty much like the k98 receiver that it's built from. I can take pics if you want me to
 
I could be wrong, but I don't think the Voere Titan is designed that way. I have one and to my non trained eye it looks pretty much like the k98 receiver that it's built from. I can take pics if you want me to
I know that early on they built the rifles on an FN action. They were a pretty nice rifle and well made. Later on, they brought out the new Titan action. The Kleingunther was weird too. It's been well over twenty years since I've barreled either one, but now, thinking on it, I'm pretty sure it was the Titan which had the insert. WH
 
A fellow contributor to our Forum sent me his early Farley Action that had the lugs completely sheared away. He wanted me to anylize it.

As many might know, this is not the first instance of this happening. About twenty years ago the exact same thing happened, and from what I can gather, there have been a couple of more.

When this happened way back when, Farley issued a recall. It seems the heat treating was off, by a lot. He offered to re draw the temper on any bolts found to be too hard.

These bolts were made from S-7 Tool Steel. S-7 will make a very strong bolt with good wear ability except for one major problem. To achieve the desired combination of Tensile and Yield strength combined with a high ductility, the heat treating protocol must be followed at a level of expertise that was not followed.

I took my three bolts, three Gene Bukys had, and two that Pat Byrne had over to Lone Star Heat Treating to have them all tested for RC Hardness.

They were all over the scale. One was as soft as 43 RC, and one clear up to 51 RC. The others averaged out somewhere in between at around 46.

My favorite bolt was the 51.iI had it magnafluxed and there were no cracks. After reading up on everything I could find concerning S-7, I decided to leave it alone. Since then, I have put literally thousands of rounds through it.

Anyway, here is the bolt and action parts Bill sent me. Aside from a few small gouge marks, I determined the action body its self was not hurt.

How ever you can see in the pictures that the lugs completely “cracked” off of the bolt body. I say cracked, because there is no evidence of a ragged break as being torn off. And as you can see, there is also a crack progressing around the circular part of the bolt head.

I took the lug Bill sent me over to a Lab we use to have it tested for RC hardness. From the scratch test I have done, I will bet it tops 53 RC.

Since getting a new bolt made by someone else did not seem practical. I offered to buy the remaining good parts and see what I can do with it. Bill agrred, so I have a project.

What I plan on doing is to cut a sufficient amount of length off of the head end of the bolt and see about attaching a bolt head much like a Savage has. Pacific Tool sells their version of the removable bolt head, I will try to get the dimensions to see if can be modified to fit the Farley raceways.

If not, I suppose I could make one.

After I attach the bolt head in the correct position, I can reattach the bolt handle to get the best primary extraction and timing.

This afternoon, I trued the action body up in my lathe and just slightly faced the lug abutments, (about .001 inch), then took a light chase on the threads and took A slight face cut on the action face. Everything looked really straight, but I figured I since I was making sure the lug abutments were perfect, go on ahead and chase the threads and action face so everything is trued on the same set up.

Anyway, I need to figure out exactly how I will do the bolt head. I think Bat makes an action now with a removable bolt head, maybe that’s an optio,

here are some pictures of the action truing. I machined the truing mandrel out of a piece of StressProof.View attachment 1534076View attachment 1534077View attachment 1534078View attachment 1534079View attachment 1534080View attachment 1534085
I like the idea of a removable bolt head but I'm sure you will come up with a good fix .
Interested in seeing what you do.
 

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