I was sent a Farley Action that had the lugs shear off of the bolt body.
- Thread starter jackieschmidt
- Start date
hpshooter
Gold $$ Contributor
Bolt is removed from action, cartridge is slipped into a shell holder that is integral to the bolt, bolt is reinserted into the receiver, round is fired, bolt is removed and spent brass removed from holder, cycle is repeated for next shot.
Has been used for home built .50 BMG bolt guns as well as smaller cartridges. Actually, Daisy Mfg. yes the
BB gun folks, submitted a prototype counter sniper rifle built this way to the FBI for testing. They (FBI) ended up sending it along with 3,000 other firearms to the foundry I worked in to be destroyed. Both old duty firearms and crime related items were sent to the cupola, sad thing to witness. A FBI armorer who was part of the delivery and monitoring crew told me that there was a HRT 1911 prototype in the lot and that they could not even remove grips or sights from the firearms.
Forum Boss: move to another posting or delete if you feel it is appropriate. Didn't want to derail Jackies thread but wanted to answer Eagle 1899 question which I now realize I could have done with a PM
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Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
Would you suggest a material other then 4130
For a bolt. I should ask that in what are the best materials for a bolt.
I meant to ask about the 4340 you used not 4130
Thanks for the answer.
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mfendley
Gold $$ Contributor
I bought a spare bolt head from Tim when I was at his shop a couple of times ago - was $50 then. I use it when I want to test a piece of brass for fitment or a cartridge for touching the lands. Quicker to swap a bolt head than stripping the ejector and extractor.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
Any of the common Alloy Steels will be fine for a bolt, 4130, 4140, 4142, 4340, etc.
One thing many overlook is the quality of the steel, regardless of which alloy you choose.
I used Premium Aircraft Quality E4340. The prossess of making this quality of steel insures that at the molecular level there are no microscopic inclusions that can compromise ductility. It’s probably overkill, but for this, I figured go for the best.
If you wanted to make a bolt with a case hardened surface, 8620 would probably be a great choice. It is specifically designed for parts that retain a relative soft center and a very hard outer layer for an anti wear quality.
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Ductility is something you want, The opposite is Brittle.
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I admire your knowledge of the various alloys, Jackie. I never had to deal with that end of things much when I was in the industry full time. Engineers specd most materials and the shop foreman handed me a blueprint and said go make this, most of the time. Lol!
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
Being in the Machine Shop Business (owner), gives one the opportunity to learn all aspects of not only manufacturing but also a wide knowledge of materials and their specific applications.
Many of our customers depend on us to solve all of their problems. Many have little knowledge of the various types of steels, whether it be stainless, carbon steel, or alloy steel. To most, if it’s shiny, it‘s stainless, if it rusts, it’s steel. Add to that we have specific regulations on materials and their applications as prescribed by one of the Registration entities, such as the America Bureau of Shipping, DeNorski Veritas, and Coast Guard,
As an owner, I have to be able to explain the parameters of material selection. That covers strength,, corrosion resistance, weldability, and a few others. And of course, in many cases the cost factor comes into play.
We also machine a lot of non metallics, which is becoming the primary choice for many applications, such as Rudder Bushings, Thrust Plates, Steering linkage Bushings, and Shaft Bearings. Our customers expect us to know all of the specifics in the machining and installation when using these products.
Both of my Brothers as well as myself take great pride in not only being Machinist, but also being on top of all the requirements our industry demands.
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jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I machined my new firing pin last night. I used a long 1/2 inch grade 8 bolt as material.
I have some hold down studs machined from 1144 that I could have used, but I chose the grade 8 because ease of machining was not a consideration. I was more interested in the higher strength.
I have some hold down studs machined from 1144 that I could have used, but I chose the grade 8 because ease of machining was not a consideration. I was more interested in the higher strength.
Tim Singleton
Gold $$ Contributor
@jackieschmidt
Is there much if any, weight differences in the alloys you mentioned as choices for the firing pin
Is there much if any, weight differences in the alloys you mentioned as choices for the firing pin
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
If there is any, it would be so small as to be a non issue. Keep in mind, even 416 stainless is still 85 percent iron.
I have thought about making a firing pin from tungsten, with the tip pressed in.
Tim Singleton
Gold $$ Contributor
That would be an interesting experiment!
@jackieschmidt , curious if you further updates
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I have been so busy at my business that I have not had time to perform the Mill work on the bolt head. I got as far as taking our small dividing head out of the tool room and cleaning it up.
I do not have the tools in my home shop to do this. Possibly this week I will be able to take a little time and get the lugs milled and the Sako Extractor installed.
I do not have the tools in my home shop to do this. Possibly this week I will be able to take a little time and get the lugs milled and the Sako Extractor installed.
Thanks,
I sure understand about being busy. cant wait to see the finished product. I always learn a lot and appreciate you teaching
jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I did the milling of the bolt head this evening, just need to do some cosmetic cleanup To complete it.
I will install the Sako Extractor tomorrow evening, then the 30 degree cone on the bolt nose.
I will install the Sako Extractor tomorrow evening, then the 30 degree cone on the bolt nose.
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Cloudrepair
Silver $$ Contributor
Like the use of the 1/4 inch hss or 3/16. Was that for some support? Or a guide of sorts?
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jackieschmidt
Gold $$ Contributor
I got the Sako Extractor installed, the drop port cut in the bottom of the action body, and the bolt nose cut to the 30 degree bevel.
All that’s left is to attach the bolt head to the original Farley bolt body, attach the handle, and it should be ready
All that’s left is to attach the bolt head to the original Farley bolt body, attach the handle, and it should be ready
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