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I was sent a Farley Action that had the lugs shear off of the bolt body.

jackieschmidt said:
I have several Knee Mills.
But if the cutter is moving in sn arc, it won’t finish the tops of the lugs before hitting the main bolt body.

We have several dividing heads. I am ordering several 1/8 ball end mills and all of the carbide drills I need to finish up.

The Heat Treat shop said it will be ready Friday.

I have it figured out, after reading many of suggestions given hear.

I have also decided to convert this to a drop port BR bolt face.like I did with my LV Farley. I have a Bat SAKO style extractor.
Click to expand...
Watch this video from about 9 minutes on. Actually, The whole video and all of his videos are worth watching.


He is removing material in the same way you need to remove it.

 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
I saw your other post but I still can't picture it in my mind
Click to expand...
See the video posted above at about the 10:20 mark. I don’t think I’d use as big of a cutter as PTG did but it would still work. I don’t think cutter size is critical at all.

Oh! He’s using the side of the cutter, what I proposed was using the end of the cutter but what he’s doing still applies. You could use a cutter with an edge radius to leave a radius at the root of the lug if you wanted.
 
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WSnyder said:
See the video posted above at about the 10:20 mark. I don’t think I’d use as big of a cutter as PTG did but it would still work. I don’t think cutter size is critical at all.

Oh! He’s using the side of the cutter, what I proposed was using the end of the cutter but what he’s doing still applies. You could use a cutter with an edge radius to leave a radius at the root of the lug if you wanted.
Click to expand...
Oh ok. Gotcha. Thanks!
 
Here is a close up of my HV Farley bolt head. The punch mark is from when we had it RC tested years ago.
What would be your guess as to how Farley generated this profile.?IMG_2715.jpeg
 
Mounted vertically in a rotary. Lugs aligned to the Y axis.

I have a smaller mill, so I get really good results with variable helix carbide endmills running fast. Feed in straight with the Y axis to form the lug... rotate the table 180 degrees... cut the other lug.. repeat a bunch of times, do a bunch of math and measurements to make sure it's right... And... do it on a test part first ;)
 
Over on Single Actions forum. The site owner and his father build their own actions. In the link below they are cutting the lugs. Lots of really good information and the math behind it. I am always in awe of a machinists ability to make something from nothing. Some excellent historical information as well.

Building a benchrest rifle | Single-Actions

My dad and I just finished this action so I thought I'd post a few pictures (well, it’s almost done; we still need to polish it and the bolt stop is temporary):
singleactions.proboards.com singleactions.proboards.com
 
Eagle1899 said:
Over on Single Actions forum. The site owner and his father build their own actions. In the link below they are cutting the lugs. Lots of really good information and the math behind it. I am always in awe of a machinists ability to make something from nothing. Some excellent historical information as well.

Building a benchrest rifle | Single-Actions

My dad and I just finished this action so I thought I'd post a few pictures (well, it’s almost done; we still need to polish it and the bolt stop is temporary):
singleactions.proboards.com singleactions.proboards.com
Click to expand...
Nice link.
Yesterday at our shop, our big Warner & Swasey 4A turret lathe shattered a trepanning tool and now the turret does not index on center.

we disassembled the turret assy and found the problem. The shock had bent one of the adjustment links in the assy that locks the turret.

I machined a new part this afternoon, I will finish it tomorrow.

i can make just about anything. I’ll take a picture tomorrow.
 
jackieschmidt said:
Nice link.
Yesterday at our shop, our big Warner & Swasey 4A turret lathe shattered a trepanning tool and now the turret does not index on center.

we disassembled the turret assy and found the problem. The shock had bent one of the adjustment links in the assy that locks the turret.

I machined a new part this afternoon, I will finish it tomorrow.

i can make just about anything. I’ll take a picture tomorrow.
Click to expand...
I've heard for ages that a lathe is the only machine ever created that can reproduce itself. Always made me ponder all of the setups that would have to be involved to painstakingly make that happen, but I can imagine it being possible. I'd say that statement is no longer true, with 3d printers today.
 
gunsandgunsmithing said:
I've heard for ages that a lathe is the only machine ever created that can reproduce itself. Always made me ponder all of the setups that would have to be involved to painstakingly make that happen, but I can imagine it being possible.
Click to expand...
Stan Ware would often tell me "Nyhus, a lathe can make parts to fix itself. But only if you have a mill first." :)
 
Here is the part I made for our Warner &Swasey 4A Turret Lathe that I alluded to in post 112.
A supplier of New Old Stock parts in New Jersey wanted $1800 for this piece. It took me a couple of hours to make it. I used a large Grade 8 bolt as a material source.
I spent some time this morning getting the linkage time. It acts as a toggle lock.
We will have it up and running this afternoon.IMG_2718.jpegIMG_2719.jpeg
 
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jackieschmidt said:
A fellow contributor to our Forum sent me his early Farley Action that had the lugs completely sheared away. He wanted me to anylize it.

As many might know, this is not the first instance of this happening. About twenty years ago the exact same thing happened, and from what I can gather, there have been a couple of more.

When this happened way back when, Farley issued a recall. It seems the heat treating was off, by a lot. He offered to re draw the temper on any bolts found to be too hard.

These bolts were made from S-7 Tool Steel. S-7 will make a very strong bolt with good wear ability except for one major problem. To achieve the desired combination of Tensile and Yield strength combined with a high ductility, the heat treating protocol must be followed at a level of expertise that was not followed.

I took my three bolts, three Gene Bukys had, and two that Pat Byrne had over to Lone Star Heat Treating to have them all tested for RC Hardness.

They were all over the scale. One was as soft as 43 RC, and one clear up to 51 RC. The others averaged out somewhere in between at around 46.

My favorite bolt was the 51.iI had it magnafluxed and there were no cracks. After reading up on everything I could find concerning S-7, I decided to leave it alone. Since then, I have put literally thousands of rounds through it.

Anyway, here is the bolt and action parts Bill sent me. Aside from a few small gouge marks, I determined the action body its self was not hurt.

How ever you can see in the pictures that the lugs completely “cracked” off of the bolt body. I say cracked, because there is no evidence of a ragged break as being torn off. And as you can see, there is also a crack progressing around the circular part of the bolt head.

I took the lug Bill sent me over to a Lab we use to have it tested for RC hardness. From the scratch test I have done, I will bet it tops 53 RC.

Since getting a new bolt made by someone else did not seem practical. I offered to buy the remaining good parts and see what I can do with it. Bill agrred, so I have a project.

What I plan on doing is to cut a sufficient amount of length off of the head end of the bolt and see about attaching a bolt head much like a Savage has. Pacific Tool sells their version of the removable bolt head, I will try to get the dimensions to see if can be modified to fit the Farley raceways.

If not, I suppose I could make one.

After I attach the bolt head in the correct position, I can reattach the bolt handle to get the best primary extraction and timing.

This afternoon, I trued the action body up in my lathe and just slightly faced the lug abutments, (about .001 inch), then took a light chase on the threads and took A slight face cut on the action face. Everything looked really straight, but I figured I since I was making sure the lug abutments were perfect, go on ahead and chase the threads and action face so everything is trued on the same set up.

Anyway, I need to figure out exactly how I will do the bolt head. I think Bat makes an action now with a removable bolt head, maybe that’s an optio,

here are some pictures of the action truing. I machined the truing mandrel out of a piece of StressProof.View attachment 1534076View attachment 1534077View attachment 1534078View attachment 1534079View attachment 1534080View attachment 1534085
Click to expand...
I never screwed up chasing threads but I was always a little apprehensive. That kind of work didn't come up that often.
Nice work.

Mort
 
Fellows the article from Single Article is INDEED from talented people I know SR. and he has been a smith for @ least 40 years a neighbor of Homer Culver (RIP) he helped with Homer's powder measures his last few years
He made several Shell Holder actions

Jackie The Younger Lee is also a Motor head

Jim
 
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