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Hydraulic forming die review... with pics!

I bought a hydraulic forming die in 6MM Dasher, from the classifieds on this site. I'm not going to lie, the reason I purchased it was because I was curious/intrigued ::)

First thing that I 'd like to point out, is that they really are not that messy. You can seriously reduce the mess with some simple pointers:
1) fill the cases with a syringe of some sort (like this: http://www.petco.com/assets/product_images/8/800443070970C.jpg)
2) ALWAYS pull the 'cylinder' out of the die, before lowering the press ram (removing the case from the die)
3) Have a large pan or bucket to shake the water out of the cases after your done forming
I had ZERO water outside of the case by using the 3 tips above. (With one exception, explained below)

100_1376.jpg


The second thing I'd like to point out is that you MUST have new brass, or freshly annealed brass.
In the pictures I have below, the 'smiley case' shows a split neck. For that case, on the third swing of the mallet the piston slammed down into the die and bottomed out. (It won't hurt the die if that happens). The water shot out of the split in the neck, immediately relieving the hydraulic pressure in the case. This case had 5 firings on it in my 6BR without being annealed. This is the case that turned the process into a watery mess :)
(NOTE - I was kind of expecting this, knowing that the brass was already work-hardened, so it wasn't a surprise.)

Lastly, it helps to use a consistent yet aggressive swing with the mallet. I did a little test to show what's happening to the case with each swing. See the pics below (The numbers on the cases refer to the number of swings with the mallet. The last case, with the 'x' on it, I actually hit it 10 times. The extra effort made no difference; anything beyond 5 swings is likely a waste of time!)

100_1373.jpg


100_1369.jpg


And finally, I feel the end results are pretty awesome, considering I used no primers, powder, bullets, or barrel life, and didn't have to create false shoulders. The end results of case IV and V in the above pictures are VERY close to my 3x fired Dasher cases. After using this process you can load and shoot with full dasher loads, which I feel is another benefit, because your first firing does not have to be a reduced load. This process goes pretty quick too! I could see knocking out 50 cases in 30 minutes easily (minus dry time).

If you can't tell, I was bored this evening, so I typed a up a review :)
Hopefully someone can gain some knowledge from it,

Walt
 
+1 on what Rookie said. My only regret is I don't have the luxury of that kind of free time. :'(
Well done Walt!
Lloyd
 
Walt: A very professional review, you are very talented. Ever think about contacting Dave Brennan and doing some articles for "Precision Shooting"?
 
1shot,
I've never had that kind of time until this week! My school work was filling 99% of the time for the last 7.5 years. It feels great to do what I want with my time, not what I have to do.

alf, Frank, Rookie,
Your comments are much appreciated! Being completely honest here, I had no idea that it was as well written as you've suggested. I might have to take Frank's advice and look into this a little bit.

Walt
 
I received several PM's regarding these dies, including questions about where to find them. Hornady does not list these dies on their website. Likely because they are custom made for each order. I'm not sure why they wouldn't at least list the product on their site, so that people would know without depending on 'word-of-mouth.'

I sent an email to Lonnie Hummel at Hornady about this die, and got the following response...

Lonnie's efforts have been redirected towards the technical dept. while the custom portion of our business is now handled by me.

Ben Syring
800-338-3220
bsyring@hornady.com
Custom Reloading Die Designer
Hornady Mfg. Co.
3625 W. Old Potash Hwy
Grand Island, NE 68803


Contact Ben for inquiries about these dies... He's a great guy to deal with!
 
Walt. Great write-up. I see a shell adapter in the picture. Is the process done in a loading press, or on a flat surface?
Thanks.
Art
 
one more thng

Do you use a spent primer in the primer pocket...how do U keep the water from runnin out the bottommm..????? Roger
 
North Fork,
I used a big rubber mallet, contrary to the instructions that state to use a dead blow. I might pick up a cheap dead blow from harbor freight and give it a try. (I could use one around the garge for other reasons as well) The rubber mallet worked well though...

Artpro,
You use it in your press. The shell adapter is made specifically for the hydro die. There's no hole in the bottom of it. Don't be discouraged from the fact that your banging on your press. The force needed is not enough (nowhere close) to be concerned about the integrity of a press.

expiper,
That's correct. Just stick a spent primer in there, and you're ready to go. This combined with the solid shell holder noted above, and the water does not seep out of the primer pocket. The primers do push out a little bit during this process, but it's impossible for it to come out becasue of the way the shell holder is designed. The shell holder has a grove in it, so the case will slide out of the shell holder when the primer is protruded a bit.

Walt
 
Thank you Walt....I am ponering a 260 AI and think this wuld be perfect to save on bbl wear and components.....(if they make it in that cal...) I will inquire abut it..thanks again....Roger
 
expiper said:
Thank you Walt....I am ponering a 260 AI and think this wuld be perfect to save on bbl wear and components.....(if they make it in that cal...) I will inquire abut it..thanks again....Roger

I read somewhere (can't find it right now) that if you send them the specs for your chamber and and 3 pieces of fire-formed brass, they'll cut the die to those specs.

One thing I forgot to mention, is that the die actually neck sizes your brass a few thousandths. This is required, so that the neck is sealed to the die.
 
Many thanks for your excellent review. Very well timed for me, as I am struggling with a rebarrelling choice between .243AI and 6/284
 
I have just received an e-mail fom the manufacturer, who informs me their custom department has a 12 wek delay on such production.

Guess I should have ordered one, before I wanted it :)
 
Is it just me or....do i see the O.A.L. getting shorter as the case gets closer to it`s intended shape?
 
phil said:
Is it just me or....do i see the O.A.L. getting shorter as the case gets closer to it`s intended shape?

Interesting... I didn't notice that.
It may just be the picture. I still have the cases, so I'll measure them when I got home today.

Walt
 
Phil,
I would think it to be a optical illusion as the Dasher is a couple thou longer than the 6br, but it does look that way from the pics huh?

Walt,
+1 on what Frank said, that was a excellent write up. I was considering buying one for fireforming my new 6brx, I don't have time for the wait now but will probably order one for the next batch I need to form based on your detailed process description, which by the way is far superior to Hornady's description of there own product. If I could write half that good people could actually make heads or tails of my posts :D thanks again for a great write up.
Wayne.
 

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