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Hs Precision Stock... Bed???

If you tighten down the front guard screw and the tang is above the stock, then I would consider sending the stock back to Hs, it is machined improperly...not the first time on this.
 
Bed it. I bed everything no matter what it is. Bedding is just one of those steps you take for maximum accuracy. I never have to wonder how it would shoot if I would bed it. It's already done.
 
I would follow ackleyman ii advise.
The block on my HS Precision is a perfect fit, it shoots lights out!
 
Some of those bedding blocks are not machined correctly. If there is a bind when you tighten the action screws, the bolt release may not work also on a Rem 700
 
The test is to torque the screws on the action to factory specs. Hold the stock in a rifle vise, loosen the screws with your dial indicator on the tang, then retorque the tang back to specs and loosen the front screw with the dial indicator in the front ring. If the action moves more than just a few thousands as the screws are loosened the bedding/stock is stressing the action. But if as you said the tang isn't touching the stock when the front screw is in, you have your answer.
 
What Dusty said,no way that aluminum block is a perfect fit like a quality bedding job . I have a HS stock that the block is actually in there crooked...you can see it with the naked eye, and really see it when you put a barreled action in it. Things happen in manufacturing that we have no control of ,but we sure can control quality once we get our hands on it .
 
What Dusty said,no way that aluminum block is a perfect fit like a quality bedding job . I have a HS stock that the block is actually in there crooked...you can see it with the naked eye, and really see it when you put a barreled action in it. Things happen in manufacturing that we have no control of ,but we sure can control quality once we get our hands on it .
Not to mention that the action usually ain't straight either.
 
What if i just bed the tang area? Front of the action seem decent, 2 spots where you can see aluminum marks on the reciever an back eack side of reciever. Its nor 100% contact. Really dont want to bed the whole thing, figured when you pay money for a nice stock that it would be right from the factory.
 
What if i just bed the tang area? Front of the action seem decent, 2 spots where you can see aluminum marks on the reciever an back eack side of reciever. Its nor 100% contact. Really dont want to bed the whole thing, figured when you pay money for a nice stock that it would be right from the factory.
It wouldnt matter if they designed it to be perfect it still would need bedding. They make them fit any action out there so as to not make the phone ring so in turn it doesnt fit any of them perfect. If you bed anything bed the front
 
Why doesn’t s someone make a lapping bar for an aluminum v block? Like ones for scope rings. Wouldn’t that work? Won’t help the tang, but...
 
I really don’t get the resistance to bedding the rifle ! All rifles should be properly bedded. It’s not that hard of a DIY project. If you can’t afford $30 in bedding materials then you really can’t afford to shoot anyway.
 
Does the aluminum bedding block do any better of a job supporting the action, as opposed to two aluminum pillars like McMillan uses?
I dont think it supports the action any better but it distributes the action footprint thru pretty much the whole stock once the action and block becomes one by bedding. Pillars only keep the screws from compressing the stock. They came about with wood stocks- as the wood expanded and contracted the torque on the screws changed.
 
Id bed the whole thing right. Who ever heard of a stock warranty? Who ever would have a gun that isnt right but have peace of mind on a warranty?

^^^^
This.
You've identified the problem, bedding just the tang will leave much of the receiver "floating" between the ends. Call for stock replacement, or skim bed the block...
 
Ok, so if i say just assembly it and shoot it what is a good indicator that the reciever is stressed???

You've answered this already with your original question..
Isn't it obvious that if the tang isn't making contact when the front action screw is torqued, and you're pulling down the tang when you tighten the rear screw- that you're bending the receiver?
 

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