I recently put together a 22-250 AI with a T&L Action, 1-12 Twist Douglas Barrel and HS Precision stock. I have tested 2 loads so far Varget with 55 G Vmax and IMR 4198 with Berger 52G flat base bullets and the best I can get is about 1 1/2 at 100. when I put the barreled action it the stock I bedded the Recoil lug and floated the Barrel well almost I can get a folded over dollar bill to slide under but it does sort of drag. I took it apart yesterday and noticed the rear tang is resting on a couple high spots and there appears to be contact under the barrel channel. The question I have is shout I go back in and grind away the lug are of the stock and do a complete bed or start with trying to remove the material around the rear tang and try again.
Help with a Bedding Issue
- Thread starter killahog
- Start date
Not clear, you said a folded-over dollar clears, but "drags"- then you posted a pic showing contact.
Check free-float with a business card, and do it with the forend of the stock "loaded"- either bipod or rest (however you shoot). Looks like a bull barrel contour, weight can cause flex/deflection of the stock causing contact that wouldn't be evident with the forend floating.
You certainly don't want uneven, "spot" contact at the tang. Your thread title is "bedding issue"- but it looks like it hasn't been bedded to me (?). Maybe it's the angle of the shot/shadowing, but it looks to me like the pillar is recessed slightly below the surrounding area? If so, I'd dremel out the tang area, and bed it flush with the pillar.
I use stock inletting black to check for contact pattern.
JMO, YMMV.
Check free-float with a business card, and do it with the forend of the stock "loaded"- either bipod or rest (however you shoot). Looks like a bull barrel contour, weight can cause flex/deflection of the stock causing contact that wouldn't be evident with the forend floating.
You certainly don't want uneven, "spot" contact at the tang. Your thread title is "bedding issue"- but it looks like it hasn't been bedded to me (?). Maybe it's the angle of the shot/shadowing, but it looks to me like the pillar is recessed slightly below the surrounding area? If so, I'd dremel out the tang area, and bed it flush with the pillar.
I use stock inletting black to check for contact pattern.
JMO, YMMV.
It's an HS Precision, so it is a V-Block design. The lines at the front are normal for a V-Block. Unfortunately it is also normal for the rear tang to "float" and not actually ride in the V. Too much torque on the rear screw will tend to bend the action and put undue stress on the whole action.
Torque the front to 50-60 in-lbs and the rear to about half that.
Torque the front to 50-60 in-lbs and the rear to about half that.
So far I have only bedded the recoil lug area and when I slide a folded bill under the barrel when the gun is resting on a rest the Bill will go thru but it’s tight. I did not expect to see the marks on the stock but that could be caused when the gun goes off .
By the looks of it I’d say that thing is getting forced in almost every direction possible. Consistent pressure is consistent groups. I’d start by clearing the barrel channel and get it actually FREE floating, no drag or resistance when checking it. Then clearance the tang in spots indicated. Install the barreled action into the stock with the muzzle pointing up at the sky. Install front screw and torque to 50-60 inch lbs. then install the rear screw while gently holding your hand around the barrel and stock at the forend tip of the stock. Slowly tighten the rear screw while feeling for movement of the barrel at the forend. If there is movement I’d suggest clearing out area for skim coat bedding and then bed it. Hope this helps.
nmkid
Gold $$ Contributor
@ killahog, I recently Glass "Bedded", an HS Precision, Sporter stock and got SUB, 1/2 MOA groups, out of my Rem 700 .22-250 with, a light weight, Sporter Barrel !
1) As stated by others use, Lamp Black, etc. to get, a little CLEARANCE around, BEHIND Recoil lug, around Barrel Shank area and Tang.
2) Buy an Ernie the Gunsmith, (see YouTube for, exact Instructions) set of, PILLAR BED, "rings", to put on your "pillars" to RAISE up the Action, a little ( a TINY drop of, Super Glue holds them, in "place").
3) Bed with a "good" Compound ( I've had great success with, Brownell's AcraGlas, over the years ) and be sure to Bed about, 1 1/2 inches of, the barrel Shank to further "support", the Barrel as, they are heavy ! This method, has "worked" repeatedly for me over many years.
4) Re-Check, Forend "clearance" for, barrel "free float".
Just slapping the Rifle into, the HS Stock ( WITHOUT bedding, as stated ) did NOT produce good groups, for me !!! Good Luck !
1) As stated by others use, Lamp Black, etc. to get, a little CLEARANCE around, BEHIND Recoil lug, around Barrel Shank area and Tang.
2) Buy an Ernie the Gunsmith, (see YouTube for, exact Instructions) set of, PILLAR BED, "rings", to put on your "pillars" to RAISE up the Action, a little ( a TINY drop of, Super Glue holds them, in "place").
3) Bed with a "good" Compound ( I've had great success with, Brownell's AcraGlas, over the years ) and be sure to Bed about, 1 1/2 inches of, the barrel Shank to further "support", the Barrel as, they are heavy ! This method, has "worked" repeatedly for me over many years.
4) Re-Check, Forend "clearance" for, barrel "free float".
Just slapping the Rifle into, the HS Stock ( WITHOUT bedding, as stated ) did NOT produce good groups, for me !!! Good Luck !
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Excellent tips , I recently checked for stock movement when the action screws were tightened and loosened and this indicated a problem. I tried just installing the stock with hopes it will work but apparently it’s going to need a full bed.
Attachments
Is that after getting clearance on everything?
The areas on the rear tang cleared also?
No I did not touch the rear Tang . My line of thinking is I am planning on bedding the entire action area and I think it would be better to glass the tang area to build it up there to make full contact as opposed to removing material in the stock in attempt to get the two surfaces to match up
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