How to properly level a scope?

[Justin_B]

What is your best method for leveling a scope reticle and mounting a scope level? I want to make sure my scopes are level and not canted. I've mounted quite a few scopes and never have came up with a good way to level the rifle.

I assume one must level the rifle.
then sight the scope on a true vertical string.
then mount the scope level on the level rifle and plum reticle.

I'd appreciate any pointers....

 

[Justin_B]

How does that rig work?

 

[Preacher]

Level it to the bubble, and adjust the crosshairs to the tool....

 

[canuck]

No tool will do it perfectly as far as I am concerned. The only way to be sure is to shoot. Start by making a perfectly perpendicular line at 100 yards and shoot at the bottom of it. Now move your scope up 20 moa or so and shoot again. It should cut the same line. Finally shoot at the actual ranges close and far to confirm the results. This is the only reliable way to do it as far as I am aware.

 

[Justin_B]

Thanks.

 

[BigJim]

You could try this -

http://www.midwayusa.com/eproductpage.exe/showproduct?saleitemid=529349

Wheeler eng level level level

 

[boogershooter]

What canuck said seems to be a pretty good common sense approach though right?

 

[skarke]

What has always worked for me is to square the rifle butt on a leveled table while pointing the barrel at a known plumb line, like the brick line on a building. Then, mount the scope with the reticle aligned with the mortar lines.

I've had a couple checked by an instrument similar to the ones listed here, and they've always been perfect.

You can do similarly by using a level on the firearm itself, providing that some part of it has a flat vertical or horizontal surface.

 

[Turk1961]

First I clamp one of these on my Weaver style bases,all my rifles have Weaver style bases :thumb: ).

https://www.midsouthshooterssupply.com/item.asp?sku=00080T1006

Then clamp the rifle into my cleaning vice.

Aim the gun at a large yellow rope hanging from a tree 25 yards across my yard. Attached to the rope and hanging well clear of the ground is a six gallon can full of water.

Next I adjust my rifle in the vice until the B-Square level is level. Then looking thru the scope, I line up the vertical wire of the reticle with the yellow rope.

Last I tighten the Burris Sig Rings down on the scope.

Works for me and it only takes ½ hour to do.

 

[squirrelduster]

It really depends on what you are trying to accomplish. If your goal is to shoot at 200 to 400 yards and you are not concerned about the crabbing effect present in most scope then all of the mechanical methods will work quite well.
If your goal is to shoot long ranges over 500 then you need to take a different approach. The sideways crabbing of the scope reticle needs to be adjusted for by using the bubble level. The method canuck mentioned works much better with a couple of changes.
First use one of the mechanical methods to get the crosshair vertical. Once it looks correct tighten up your scope rings. Don't move the scope again.
Before you start verify your 100 yard zero.
Put a 1/2" stick on dot at the bottom and drop a plumb line and measure up 22" along the line and place another 1/2" dot.
Shoot three shots at the bottom dot with the crosshair intersecting the upper dot.
Turn your scope 21 MOA up and shoot three more shots at the lower dot.
The shots should center around the upper dot.
If it is higher or lower then your scope clicks are not MOA accurate. If the shots are left or right we have work to do.
Say the upper group is 1 inch to the right, place another dot 1 inch to the left.
Go back to the bench and put your bubble level on the scope. Without moving the scope cant the rifle so the crosshair is on lower dot and the new dot 1 inch to the left intersects the vertical cross hair. When you have the rifle canted correctly move the level on the scope so it is level and tighten it down.
Don't forget to move your scope back down 21 MOA.
Level the rifle using the scope level.
Shoot another group at the lower dot. Crank up 21 MOA and you should be on the first dot you placed at 22".
If you have more room you can use a bigger target that is multiples of 22". Such as 44,66 and so on. The bigger the board the better the accuracy of setting the level.
I learned this method from a post by Paul Coburn,catshooter) a year or so ago and have made a few changes and has worked really well for me and my friends. We shoot long range ground squirrels and had a lot of problems with what we thought was wind drift and turned out to our equipment not correctly set up.

 

[BSJ]

I start without the scope even being in the rings.

First I put a clamp-on, ring style, level on the scope. I strap the scope to a camera tripod just to make it easy to look through. Aim it at a plumb bob to aling the reticle. When things line up I clamp the level down tight. Now the level is "calibrated" to the scope.

Then I put the scope in the rings and another level on the top of the scope rail. When the levels line up I tighten the rings.

Now I can move the scope in the rings or even from gun to gun without having to realign the scope every time. I just put a level on the gun again...

 

[squirrelduster]

All scopes have crabbing issues and to set the scope up with a string or whatever mechanical device you would like to use it doesn't take into account the crabbing.
My point being that you set it up like you said to then you try the technique I mentioned to fine tune everything.
If you shoot only targets or deer size game under 400 yards it is not an issue but if you are into the long range rodent control or 500+ yard deer game then you need to shoot it to make sure that your scope tracks accurately to the level you installed on the tube if you expect to make a first shot hit at extended range.

 

[gbp]

Just another way

http://www.snipershide.com/modules.p...howpage&pid=25

followed by

http://www.longrangehunting.com/arti...dicularity.php

 

[mikecr]

In many cases, setting the scopelevel with the vertical reticle plumb, and the rifle itself in any comfortable condition, works very well. As mentioned such a scope could be moved from gun to gun without further checks needed.

But once in a while you get a scope where the reticle dosen't elevation adjust in a plumb manner. The only way to catch this really is to shoot it throughout it's range.
I've done this for years. It takes very little effort, and gives you piece of mind. Go ahead and 'shoot the box' with the addition of plumb elevation checks.
Hopefully, you'll feel better about your system.

 

[boogershooter]

Wow! Thats alot of good info to digest.

 

[Dirtball]

When I install a scope I eyeball as close as I can and then go to the range and do this:
http://www.longrangehunting.com/articles/reticle-perpendicularity.php

then when I have to dial up 25+ MOA you know the scope is right.
I have never found any combination of bubble levels that does as well.
Dave

 

[2amend]

What is your best method for leveling a scope reticle and mounting a scope level? I want to make sure my scopes are level and not canted. I've mounted quite a few scopes and never have came up with a good way to level the rifle.

I assume one must level the rifle.
then sight the scope on a true vertical string.
then mount the scope level on the level rifle and plum reticle.

I'd appreciate any pointers....

Hi Justin, appreciate your question as I struggled with this process for years, own every reticle level system with poor results. Discovered can only adequately level the action with the xtreme hardcore action level. I made a 6 ft bold vertical line on a white faced strip of .25 thick plywood, I also have bold moa markings along its length. Take this the range and attach at 100 yards and plumb vertically using a 5 ft level. Zero(center) crosshairs in scope horizontally and vertically by counting clicks and backing off by one half. Place rifle in cradle, place action level on bolt slide rails and rotate scope the align with the vertical 100 yd line. Adjust cradle so the cross hairs perfectly bisect the vertical line while maintaining the action level at level. Now turn the elevation adjustment 20 moa up and down. If the cross hairs stay in the centerline over this range the reticle is perfectly level, can also confirm moa adjustment and return to zero accuracy using the moa markings on the target also.

 

[Alex Wheeler]

First off a scope doesnt need to be level. If your crosshairs are level every shot you wont have error. Its when your crosshairs arent level shot to shot you will have issues. I have tried about every method. The eyeball method is the only one that works for me every time

 

[BoydAllen]

I use one of these to level the rifle.
http://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-t...ers/vertical-reticle-instrument-prod6097.aspx
After the rifle is secured level with the CL of the scope on a vertical line with the center of the barrel (what this tool is designed to do) , I use the level on the top of the turret or cap as a reference to rotate the scope until it reads perfectly level. I know that this is not theoretically perfect, but some very long shots have been made using rigs that I set up this way. I count this tool as one of my best purchases for gun work.

 

[chkunz]

I have recently started shooting the National Match Course with a scope. This course of fire includes the standing, sitting and prone positions and utilizes a sling in the sitting and prone positions. I cant the rifle inboard a few degrees in the shooting positions and this cant requires that the scope cross hairs be canted so that they appear plumb when I am in position. I am only pointing this out in case there may be some folks that read this that do not want the scope reticle plumb with the gun but need it plumb with their position.